Door Rattle
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 147
From: San Diego, CA
Door Rattle
I took my truck out to the desert over Thanksgiving for some sand, sun and more sand. I have a crew cab and everything sounded okay while I was bouncing around except for the driver's door. It was rattling something terrible like it wasn't fully latched. My door light was off and I re-shut the door to make sure it was latched tight (and the door was flush with the body). It still rattled around like it wasn't fully latched.
After the first day I checked the loop on the body and it was tight. The latch looked okay and I lubed it up with spray silicone. It still rattled like crazy the rest of the time.
Is there some kind of adjustment I can do on the latch mechanism in the door? Is it just not retaining it properly? Am I screwed and have to buy another latch? Why am I asking all these questions?
Normal driving it does fine. No ratlles, no wind noise on the freeway. Is there anything I can do before I buy another latch?
After the first day I checked the loop on the body and it was tight. The latch looked okay and I lubed it up with spray silicone. It still rattled like crazy the rest of the time.
Is there some kind of adjustment I can do on the latch mechanism in the door? Is it just not retaining it properly? Am I screwed and have to buy another latch? Why am I asking all these questions?
Normal driving it does fine. No ratlles, no wind noise on the freeway. Is there anything I can do before I buy another latch?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,863
Likes: 4
From: Airdrie Alberta
It is something inside the door, I've seen topics in the 7.3 forum about guys who have fixed that problem, mine does it to. You should go drive over some bumps and watch your door while you do it and you'll see it moving
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,459
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From: Wyoming
open the door, grab the rear of it and lift up to see if theres any play in the hinges. When hinges wear out the door will rattle terribly in the hills. Also make sure its not a window track or something loose inside the door. If its none of that you could try adjusting the striker in a little bit to tighten the seal. The latch itself is about the last place I would look.
Last edited by a-rod; Nov 28, 2007 at 09:32 PM.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 147
From: San Diego, CA
I went to the store last night and went over a few of the nastier speed bumps in the shopping center parking lot. I usually don't slow down too much for them anyway (I have a big heavy duty truck for a reason and I'm not afraid to use it) but made sure I got a little jolt when going over them. The door definitely moves so it's not a window track. I tried lifting on the door when it was open and there is no play. I will try to find some stuff on adjusting the striker.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Wyoming
wow didnt realize you had so many miles on the truck, are you sure theres no play in the door hinges??? There shouldnt be any at all. The latch could also be getting worn out as well. The striker is the gold/silver thing that the door latch latches onto. Its on the pillar. Theres two stardrive bolts that hold it on, loosen them and slide the striker in a bit. This will tighten up the seal between the door and the body.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,093
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From: San Diego, CA
Thanks I'll give it a try tonight.
I know it's got a lot of miles. I bought it a couple of months ago. It was a ranch/farm truck. Bone stock and regularly serviced at the same local Ford dealership (where it was bought from). I would have liked less than 100K but the truck is strong, in great shape, one owner, local, no mods and I got a good deal because of the miles. If it was a gasser I'd be concerned (I sold my '97 SCab with 150K to get this). Plus I was able to get an '03 instead of an '01 Lariat or '02 XLT that I was originally considering. Plus the 250 gets 15-16mpg overall instead of my old 5.4L's 12mpg. It's a win/win for me and I couldn't be happier. I will never own spark plugs again!!!!!
I know it's got a lot of miles. I bought it a couple of months ago. It was a ranch/farm truck. Bone stock and regularly serviced at the same local Ford dealership (where it was bought from). I would have liked less than 100K but the truck is strong, in great shape, one owner, local, no mods and I got a good deal because of the miles. If it was a gasser I'd be concerned (I sold my '97 SCab with 150K to get this). Plus I was able to get an '03 instead of an '01 Lariat or '02 XLT that I was originally considering. Plus the 250 gets 15-16mpg overall instead of my old 5.4L's 12mpg. It's a win/win for me and I couldn't be happier. I will never own spark plugs again!!!!!
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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Mine does the same. I believe there is a plastic sleeve over the striker post and it has worn out and fallen off of mine. I'm starting there and will replace it. I saw some at Auto Zone but I need to pull mine off and take it in and match one up. I think that will fix my problem.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: San Diego, CA
Let me know how it goes. I loosened the striker, but it's not adjustable. So I'm back to square one again. I just need to find something to latch the door a little closer to the body, everything else is fine.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
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I bet putting some silicone tubing in the door seals will solve your problem. It'll give some more spring to the rubber door seals which will push out on the door more and hold it in place better. If nothing else, its a cheap way to maybe fix the problem. search the SD and Excursion forums, I've seen threads about doing this and they can tell you how much of what diameter tubing to use.
good luck!
Isaac
good luck!
Isaac
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Joined: May 2008
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I agree with above RP27G8G Senior User, it’s the plastic sleeve on the door striker - the rod looking mechanism on the cab frame. My door also started rattling like crazy, was driving me nuts, then I noticed the door striker plastic sleeve was broke in half and found the other half on the cab floor. Quick shade-tree fix was to cut lengths of duck tape and wrap it around the broken plastic. This worked for a while, then I had an epiphany…. I happen to have some thick wall copper pipe that is same diameter of plastic sleeve. I cut it the same length as exposed rod, then cut pipe in half. Then I put copper pieces over striker rod and put a little liquid metal glue on the seams and duck taped in place – it still works great a year later :-)
All you need is 2in of thick wall copper pipe, strong flexible glue and some duck tape.
The copper metal is weaker than the door latch mechanism so it shouldn't cause wear on the latch system and it won't break like plastic.
----------------------------
93 F250 Diesel 7.3 NonTurbo KingCab
All you need is 2in of thick wall copper pipe, strong flexible glue and some duck tape.
The copper metal is weaker than the door latch mechanism so it shouldn't cause wear on the latch system and it won't break like plastic.
----------------------------
93 F250 Diesel 7.3 NonTurbo KingCab
you can't fix stupid!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,906
Likes: 2
this is a relatively common problem. whoever mentioned filling up the door seals with tubing is correct. itll take you anout 64 feet of 3/8 vinyl tubing from your local lowes and about an hour or so of you and the wifey shoving the tubing through the door seal. use a bucket of soapy water and it will slide through easier. this is exactly what i did to my CC when i thought my door was rattling like it was going to fall off my truck. youll also find that it is alot quieter inside.
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
I took my truck out to the desert over Thanksgiving for some sand, sun and more sand. I have a crew cab and everything sounded okay while I was bouncing around except for the driver's door. It was rattling something terrible like it wasn't fully latched. My door light was off and I re-shut the door to make sure it was latched tight (and the door was flush with the body). It still rattled around like it wasn't fully latched.
After the first day I checked the loop on the body and it was tight. The latch looked okay and I lubed it up with spray silicone. It still rattled like crazy the rest of the time.
Is there some kind of adjustment I can do on the latch mechanism in the door? Is it just not retaining it properly? Am I screwed and have to buy another latch? Why am I asking all these questions?
Normal driving it does fine. No ratlles, no wind noise on the freeway. Is there anything I can do before I buy another latch?
After the first day I checked the loop on the body and it was tight. The latch looked okay and I lubed it up with spray silicone. It still rattled like crazy the rest of the time.
Is there some kind of adjustment I can do on the latch mechanism in the door? Is it just not retaining it properly? Am I screwed and have to buy another latch? Why am I asking all these questions?
Normal driving it does fine. No ratlles, no wind noise on the freeway. Is there anything I can do before I buy another latch?
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