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Hello All - I picked up a 1993 factory turbo truck with 250,000km on it. Its a 5spd with a sterling rear end, cab and chassis. Runs great when cold but thwn hot it starts to smoke white. Owner said it is the passenger side head is cracked. I want to replace the head and drop to turbo motor in my non-turbo ride.
What is involved in replacing the head? Would it be better to just rob the turbo and drop in onto my engine. My engine is great just a lil slow when the 5th wheel is on the back.
I am in Calgary, Alberta and if anyone here owuld like any parts like the rear end or tranny let me know I would sell them really cheap.
My first question is how did the PO come to the cracked head decision........ Check the tailpipe for coolant/sweet smell taste...... White smoke with a fuel smell could be an injector (bad) or air in the fuel system, too far retarded timing after fast idle and timing advance are off......
Well I have more of the story. The guy bought it to make a wrecker thats why its a cab and chassis now so he got it home and said it blew white smoke like crazy when under part/hard throttle. I just started it up and there is a bit of white smoke it was -15 out i couldnt smell a sweet smell from where I was standing but I was cold so i got back in my car. They guy said that the coolant was low when he bought it and he topped it up drove about 20 miles and then shut it off. He didnt top off the coolant anymore, I checked and the rad was full but the over flow empty, that could be leaking though.
It starts up great, idles great, there is a new clutch in it it pulls like a bat out of hell but smokes white. The exhaust note is the same as my truck and the oil is clean. He said a friend told him the head is cracked.
I figure that worst case is the head is gone, the turbo was replaced about 2 months ago and I picked the whole thing up for $500. Can i put that turbo on my truck?
well what year is your motor and how many miles are on it ???? if its low milage or rebuilt you can with out to much worry.... but the turbo motor has bigger injectors and the pump is set for the turbo.... if your motor is older you might have some lower end troubles ....
Smelling the exhaust when it is smoking white will tell the story in short order.
Coolant has a very sweet smell.
Fuel smells like fuel.
Removing the heads on a turbo motor is much easier with the engine removed from the truck.
Pulling the engine is not that big of a deal if you have a place to work.
I just ran the truck up to operating temp and the coolant is pressuring up. which tells me that combustion gas is getting into the coolant system.
Motor has 250,000km on it. Turbo has less than 8000km on it. The bottom end of my 7.3 should be fine with the turbo, I have friend that have turbo'd these and put lots of miles, the bottom end is not a worry for me. I can turn the pump up a bit for a more fuel and I already have a 5" exhaust on the truck so it all should work god together.
Dave - Thanks for the input. Exhaust does not smell sweet, but coolant is over presurizing, thinking head gasket form the VW experience. I am stripping the truck on Friday night. I have pulled 3 of these beasts before.
The one thing I want to know is if it will all bolt on?
Fill the over flow tank with mixed coolant.....pressurized hoses are normal ( hard as hell ) with a 13 lb cap. Check the overflow tank for air bubbles. I had a similar problem with loss of coolant.....was the little hose right at the rad cap... old age destroys the hoses natural retension elasticity....Check the hose for free flowing also they can get pugged up........ they are supposed to direct coolant expansion to the tank and return it when the engine cools..... replace the rad cap too if it is old.
I unbolted the exhaust and the white is only coming from the passenger side manifold. What the best way to see if its a head gasket or the head itself?
I know i can take it off take it to a shop and pressure test it but if there is a quick way id be happy with that.
I would do a compression test. Even with a crack that has to be warm to show it will have a significantly lower reading than a good cylinder. If you don't have a compression tester go pick on up from Harbor Freight they have them almost everywhere now. The only issue you will need to deal with is to cut the bottom of the adapter right below the taper. It will not go into the cylinder head otherwise.
If you can find a way to put shop air into the cylinders through the glow plug hole, you can watch to see which cylinder causes the radiator to overflow.
Once you know exactly which cylinder has the problem, you should be able to see the problem when the head comes off.