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2 questions- 00 Explorer

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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 08:25 PM
  #1  
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2 questions- 00 Explorer

1. I want to add an auxillary cigarrete lighter plug that is switched on/off with the key for the Sirius radio but there are no empty spots in the fuseblock that are switched. Would a fusetap in the radio fuse with a 10A inline fuse do the trick?

2. The rig has the full time 4x4- if I were to buy a switch from a rig without the full time 4x4 would that be all that's necessary, or is the T-case or some other part different also? Looking for a few more mpg by not having the full time 4x4.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 10:43 PM
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I'm not familiar with how the explorer's 4x4 system works, but even if you could disengage the transfer case, you're front hubs would still be locked in and thus all your front drivetrain components woulds still be spinning (axle shafts, differential internals, front driveshaft). Therefore you wouldn't be saving any mileage anyways...
 
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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When I added a peak (has amber parking lights in it) to my truck I used of of them kits that you get from Autozone that you pull the fuse out and plug in a fuse with 2 slots. 1 for the orig circut and 1 with a wire comming out for whatever you want.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 09:02 AM
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1) How much power does the Sirus radio need? i doubt it's very much but better to know than guess. The way I'd do this would be to tap into the power wire for the existing lighter, insert a relay, and switch the relay with the radio power lead.


2)You truck is actually all wheel drive, not 4 wheel drive, the difference is in the transfer case. To make the rig truely part time 4wd you would have to change the transfer case and install lockout hubs on the front wheels.. not a small job if it's even possible.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 09:53 AM
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One more note. You've got the right thinking to install an aux cigarette plug for the Sirius power. I've got Sirius in my truck and I hardwired it to the fuse panel by snipping the cigarette adapter off of the power plug (I've done this in the past without problems). Well after the install my unit would not power on. Took me over an hour of checking all my wiring over and over until I realized that the cigarette plug had a voltage reduction chip inside of it

I cracked open the plug and hardwired that voltage reduction chip INLINE on my circuit, then rehousing it in the cigarette adapter plug again. Pretty trick job I did if I do say so myself



You can see that wires go in 1 end, and different wires come out the other! My brother installed an aux plug in his truck like you're doing, that worked out much better Moral of the story, CHECK THE PLUG FIRST!
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Conanski

2)You truck is actually all wheel drive, not 4 wheel drive, the difference is in the transfer case. To make the rig truely part time 4wd you would have to change the transfer case and install lockout hubs on the front wheels.. not a small job if it's even possible.
Crap, that's what I was afraid of I'll have to research more to see what it would take, if its even possible, to convert the rig (notice I said rig, not truck ) to a "normal" 4x4.

Chris- I kind of like the idea of doing something similar to what you've done, as I've got a power adapter that the screw-on tip is broken. Help me understand a little better what you did though- basically you opened the cigarrette lighter adapter, ran wires from the voltage reduction chip (one hot one ground I assume) out of the plug to the appropriate spots in the cab? Did you do any kind of a fuse inline also?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
Chris- I kind of like the idea of doing something similar to what you've done, as I've got a power adapter that the screw-on tip is broken. Help me understand a little better what you did though- basically you opened the cigarrette lighter adapter, ran wires from the voltage reduction chip (one hot one ground I assume) out of the plug to the appropriate spots in the cab? Did you do any kind of a fuse inline also?
That's exactly what I did. The chip actually already had 2 short wires that were running 1 to the metal nub at the end of the plug and 1 to the two plastic tabs on the side (1 is +12v and 1 is ground). I just snipped them and spliced in my own wires, one goes to a fuse tap in my fuse box and one gets grounded. I had to do a little bit of modification to the inside of the adapter to make the 2 butt connectors fit inside. If it wasn't zip tight and then covered with my kick plate I'd go crack it open and snap some pics, sorry

Lemme know if that any of that makes sense.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 09:50 PM
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No worries. So crack the plug open and there are two wires in there to snip and run to the appropriate spots- sounds easy enough to me. One to ground, to to the radio power lead with an inline fuse. Thanks for the help man!
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 09:53 PM
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I didn't bother using an inline fuse, seems overkill, but feel free

Good luck brother.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Skandocious
I didn't bother using an inline fuse, seems overkill, but feel free

Good luck brother.
Yes, but you said you ran your power wire to the fuse block with a fuse tap, which gives you a fuse to rely on if something should go wrong. If I ran a power wire straight from the back of the radio to the Sirius unit without a fuse in there somewhere I'd be worried about burning up the Sirius player if something weird happened that would have caused a fuse to blow. Is my logic good here or not?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
Yes, but you said you ran your power wire to the fuse block with a fuse tap, which gives you a fuse to rely on if something should go wrong. If I ran a power wire straight from the back of the radio to the Sirius unit without a fuse in there somewhere I'd be worried about burning up the Sirius player if something weird happened that would have caused a fuse to blow. Is my logic good here or not?
Your logic makes sense. But my circuit is only protected by the fuse that I tapped into, if I put the tap on the *** end of the circuit, that is, so that my Sirius no longer gets power if the fuse burns up. If I've got my wire tapped to the hot prong on that fuse, then even if the fuse burns up, I'll still get power to the Sirius. I didn't bother checking which prong I tapped into, I suppose maybe I should
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 10:06 AM
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Yeah I suppose you are right
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
Yeah I suppose you are right
Have fun with the install If you're careful then you can crack open the power adapter without breaking it, and it'll snap right back together.

Here's some pics of my finished install in my 95 F150:



Now it's gotten moved over and theres a trans temp gauge in its old spot:


Good luck buddy
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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I like what you did with the antenna! My F250 has a Lund lighted visor on it, so I ran the antenna wire under the windshield trim, along the inside of the visor, then out the center of the cab up front- looks clean that way. I'm glad I'm not the only one who insists on having the Sirius on the driver's side- a couple people have asked my why I don't put it in the middle of the window- which is mostly due to the fact that I hate having wires laying all over my dash. Plus, I can turn it to whatever station I want and my wife can't change it to something lame
 
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
I'm glad I'm not the only one who insists on having the Sirius on the driver's side- a couple people have asked my why I don't put it in the middle of the window- which is mostly due to the fact that I hate having wires laying all over my dash. Plus, I can turn it to whatever station I want and my wife can't change it to something lame
I tried the same trick in my wife's explorer, but her Sirius unit has a remote so my stations always get vetoed!!
 
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