Camshaft question
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Camshaft question
Ok, got my '67 F100/352 bout complete. Got a new rear OE chrome rear bumper ordered, two 8" rear steel wheels comming, two new low rear view mirrors to replace the west coast mirrors that's on it. She's gonna look virtually stock except the little larger rubber on the rear and a little lower ride height.
The motors fresh, has a Edlebrock intake and 4bbl carb with Hooker headers and Borla mufflers. My question is, I would like some "lope" in the motor for cruise nights. I don't intend on racing this truck, I'm even about to replace the 3.73 pumpkin with a 3.00 for lower cruise rpms. What would be a good cam for this? Something drivable but with some bump to it.
I had a '72 Gran Torino Sport that I put a Crower Baja Torquemaster in that sounded pretty good, but I don't think they make em anymore. Any suggestions?
The motors fresh, has a Edlebrock intake and 4bbl carb with Hooker headers and Borla mufflers. My question is, I would like some "lope" in the motor for cruise nights. I don't intend on racing this truck, I'm even about to replace the 3.73 pumpkin with a 3.00 for lower cruise rpms. What would be a good cam for this? Something drivable but with some bump to it.
I had a '72 Gran Torino Sport that I put a Crower Baja Torquemaster in that sounded pretty good, but I don't think they make em anymore. Any suggestions?
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I heard a Vette with a comp cams 268H cam. It had a nice bump to it. I wouldnt think the cam spec would be too different between the two motors. The 268H for the ford is just under .500 lift so a stock spring could handle the lift. The Jegs book says it has a noticable idle to it. The 270H is also a great cam. Has a rough idle. Might have to machine the heads for different springs. Not positive on that. And adjustabel valve traing should be used.
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Thanks slinger, you have put me on the right track, did some reading and I'm looking at the 268H. I'm wondering though with the FE, with this cam will I run into probs with the pushrods? With the cam and lifter kit, will I just be able to install it and go, or am I going to have to change some pushrod lengths? Thanks for the reply.
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I bought some parts from a guy who worked on ford engines and he told me that you can use stock the stock valve train if the lift is under .520. Any higher than that and you need adjustable rockers. (don't hold me to that) . if you do get adj. rockers the you will need to buy the ball and cup style rods. For right now i would say your safe running the 268H and stock valve train. Some one else will give there bit of info also.
Last edited by slinger34; Nov 27, 2007 at 10:06 AM.
Cargo Master
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From: Central Texas
Originally Posted by capt775
I had a '72 Gran Torino Sport that I put a Crower Baja Torquemaster in that sounded pretty good, but I don't think they make em anymore. Any suggestions?
FE "Freakin Expensive"
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From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Crane also makes a long line of cams for the Fe's, just about every build you might want to do..Just something else to look into.... Depnding on where you want to go?
RJ
RJ
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From: Klamath Falls OR
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From: Madison, SD
IMO the best way to select a cam is to fill out one of the cam selection spec sheets that all the cam companies have. Most have them available on line. Fill the sheet out completely and truthfully, no wishing or hoping just the straight stuff on what you have in the engine. Then, call the cam company whose spec sheet you filled out and talk to one of the reps about what will work best for your engine. Notice I said one of the cam company reps and not somebody on the phone bank at Jegs!!!!! I've done this for most all my engines, sometimes I compromise and go with an off the shelf grind and sometimes I go with a custom grind. I've yet to ever be disappointed in the cam that the rep suggests... These guys do it for a living and have an engineering department and many years of R&D on the dyno to back up their selection. The price of the phone call is well worth it!!!!!!
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From: Newbury Park Ca.
Look at some of the old "Cam break in" nightmare threads.......Consider a roller!! Does anyone offer a hyd roller for the FEs yet?..........If you go flat tappet, either hyd or solid, do your homework on oil choices for cam break in and follow manuf. recomendations to the letter.......aMP
Needsmorecoffee.
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: CT
Originally Posted by aMoneypit
Look at some of the old "Cam break in" nightmare threads.......Consider a roller!! Does anyone offer a hyd roller for the FEs yet?..........If you go flat tappet, either hyd or solid, do your homework on oil choices for cam break in and follow manuf. recomendations to the letter.......aMP
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From: Klamath Falls OR
Originally Posted by slinger34
If you follow the break in procedure that that company recommends, and you use a good assebly lube you should not have a problem with the break in.
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From: Near the racetrack, WA
Originally Posted by slinger34
Has anyone tried Clay Smith cams. I have not seen anyone talk about them here or anyone running one.
FE "Freakin Expensive"
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From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Originally Posted by Ford428CJ
Its the oil you will have problems with! A fair amount of them have done away with the zinc in the oil. EPA/ new cars don't need it. So If you buy Valvoline Race oil or Kendall GT-1. Better do your research or you will have a flat cam on your hands! No joke........JMO
I have allways used Valvoline VR1 without any problems...But I also hear Shells Rotella T is also a real good source for (Zinc) Oil.. for cam break ins..
As Wes said zinc is needed for proper Cam and bearing break in....JMO
RJ
