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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

86 engine vibrates BAD!

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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 02:25 PM
  #16  
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Now I'm thinking Fuel regulator, MAP, or O2 sensor.

Check to see if the vacuum line to the manifold from the regulator has fuel in it. Not sure how to test if a MAP is working correctly or not, and for O2 sensors, you can clean them by heating them up to when they just start to glow red, then quickly cooling them off with water.

My ranger used to do exactly what you described, and it was running way to rich, then one day It just stopped running rich, and has ran fine every since. Not sure what happend. Check the plugs, after you have ran the engine for a while, they should be a nice tan/orange color.

Another important thing to do is to pull the codes! You may have an error, but they didn't actually put a functioning check engine light until 88-89. You can find out how to do it at fordfuelinjection.com
 
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 08:05 AM
  #17  
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so much for the theory on the throttle position sensor... It still seems like it's just loading up on fuel... I don't think it's the fuel regulator, there's no gas in the vacuum lines. However, when i was testing for spark (again) I noticed a bit of an improvement when I pulled the wire on #4. So I'm kinda back to square 1 again thinking a bad injector or badly adjusted rocker arm.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 08:55 AM
  #18  
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If the distributor is 180 out, the truck won't start. For distributor timing:

Distributor rotation is clockwise.
Firing order is - 1,4,2,5,3,6
#1 cylinder is front cylinder pass side
Numbering is 1,2,3, pass side front to back, and 4,5,6 front to back drivers side.

When installing the distributor, you need to allow for the helical cut on the gears. Let the distributor down until it touches the cam gear with the rotor pointed at #1 plug firing position. Then turn the rotor backwards(ccw) until you feel it engage the tooth. Then when you lower the dist, the rotor will turn back to #1 plug. The oil pump rod slot must be lined up with the dist slot or it will not go all the way down. You can turn the oil pump with a long screwdriver.

Once you are sure of the distributor timing and wiring, you can move on to other things. A timing light will tell you if it is correct. jd
 
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 09:58 AM
  #19  
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One thing to consider is that my 2.9 ranger for whatever reason, managed to knock a pushrod off, not bend it or anything, just knocked it off. Have you done a compression check on the cylinders yet?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 08:10 AM
  #20  
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not yet, but I think I'll do that. IT's just that the more I think about it, it just feels like the valves somehow. I've tested everything else to the point of madness so it's just time to tear the covers back off and see what the problem is. Thanks for all the help everyone, I'll let you know what I find -if anything. By the way, what's the HP rating for this engine. A buddy told me he thought it was 195 and i told him he was nuts, that's way to much. Anyone know?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 11:57 AM
  #21  
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My 87 2.9 with EFI is 140HP w/145 ft-lbs of torque. Could be the other way around, but I know its around 140-145HP
 
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 12:12 PM
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The saga is finally over!!! Thank you all for your help. I finally took an hour yesterday and opened up the driver-side valve cover to recheck valve lash. Turns out I had a fuel valve that was over tightened by about 2 turns. so it was being help open and not allowing for good combustion. So I readjusted the valves and sealed it all back up and now she runs like a bat out of hell! -a little knocking, but hey, I'll take it. It might even clear up with a little 91 and some Lucas. Thanks again everyone...
 
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