So all the work has been done to replace the gasket on the oil pan and pump. Engine jacked up, on blocks, pan off cleaned up. It was a pain in the #$$ and I was looking for a trick to re-installing? Does anyone have a trick to bolting the pump back in while holding a beer and the pan? Just kidding... but a trick to make my knuckles last longer would be appreciated.

'77 F150, 302, 2wd

Thanks !!!

 

if your holding a beer, use one of your good friends to get oily while you enjoy the cold refreshing taste of the beer

 

Oil pans usually need to go straight on. in your case straight up. I generally put the gaskets & seals on the block, so they don't get bumbed getting the pan in position.

I usually use permatex form-a-gasket #1, I think, The Non hardening type. I use it on the both sides of the gaskets and seals (Never on head or exhaust gaskets). It is not too fun to clean off when it is time to clean it off next time but I rarely have leaks. I don't like to use RTV (silicone) sealant. I have had too many time where I had to go back and fix a leak. I think it is too slippery and can let the gasket get squeezed out or move around (especially on Intake valley end seals) Also, when using any sealant be careful to not put on so much that it gets squeezed out and puts goober piles on the edges, that can break off inside and get caught up in the oil pickup tube strainer. (that can destroy the motor by starving the pump of oil)

Others, I am sure, have differing opinions on sealant use. While I have built a dozen motors over 20 years (2 around 500hp), I am not a professional Mechanic. And there may be a better way.

Another trick is to cut two pieces of 1/4-20 threaded rod about 2-3" long. Put the rods in opposing corners. use them as guides to seat the pan. They will ensure that the pan goes on straight and does not push the gaskets around & out of place.

Good Luck
Shawn

 

They make plastic giude rods for this aswell and do pretty much what was mentioned by Drac. Any way when i bought my oilpan gasket for my 300 I-6 it came with four of these plastic guides. You can prolly find them at auto zone or something, i'm not sure though. I've never seen them until i bought a new gasket.

 

The non hardening type is #2. If you use this, apply as thin as possiable, it is not a free flowing sealant like the RTV is.

I use sealant on the part that is removed, that way it is easier to cleanup, if that time comes again. But on those do not want to seal areas I douse it on both sides.

Since they (EPA) removed chlorinated solvents from the general public, cleanup takes a little longer. Trichlor use to remove the Permatex #2 quick and easy. Infact most of the good solvents have been removed. The replacements work but not near as fast, and are safer for you and the enviroment.

The plastic guides were supplied with my last pan gasket (felpro). But the all threads or stuts will work fine too.

It also helps to have small hands so you can mount the pump without dropping a bolt into the pan.

 

If I am reading your question right, you need to install your oil pump while the pan is in position to be re-installed? I had the same problem on my 460, I was too lazy to unbolt the engine and hoist it up. The oil pan would not come off unless the oil pump was un bolted. I got the pan as close as I could with room to work, taped it up with duct tape, and proceeded to cuss and spill my beer once while trying to re-insert the oil pump shaft into the bottom of the distributor and re-installing said pump.

Which motor and frame do you have (2WD, 4WD)?

 

Are you serious Beavis? My motor and frame are listed DIRECTLY after my question - how could you possibly miss it?
You have misunderstood my question. I know how to re-install everything, I simply was looking for any tips or tricks to making it easier then I know it will not be.

 

I don't know if the 302 is any easier than the 460, but it is difficult. I jacked my 460 up as high as I could, put the oil pump into the pan, put the pan up near the position for re bolting and the bolted the pump on. I then positioned the pan gasket and bolted the pan on. The only problem I had was I put the oil pump drive shaft in upside down. Now every time I pull the distributor out the shaft falls out of the oil pump and is a bitch to lift up and get it back onto the pump. I am just going to put up with it because I don't want to ever pull that pan in the vehicle again.

 

I've done this job on a 351 Windsor on my back with the engine on blocks like you have and it was one of the biggest PITA's ever. My advice would be to have plenty of pan bolts next to you so that when you've got the pan posititioned and set in place, you can hold it up with one hand and quickly thread in a few bolts with the other hand so that you can let your first hand rest after a little bit. Lying on your back with your arm routed through the frame holding that pan up really starts to hurt after a while. Also, don't be like me and drop your trouble light and burn out the bulb so that you have to set the pan back down and go fetch a new light bulb.

 

I think he's had a few beers allready tonight

 

I heard the words beer, got distracted, got up and got one.