04' F250 Turning problem
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04' F250 Turning problem
I just picked up a used F250 about 3 weeks ago from a local dealer. Truck has 88k with a 6.0 diesel and 4X4..
When you turn the wheel to the left to make a turn or go up a drive way it feels like the wheel is skipping on the ground....
Not sure what this is from.. Almost feels like it is in 4 wheel drive but it's not...
What could cause this? I was thinking bad ball joints!!!
The dealer replace the swaybar links when I picked the truck because it was making a clicking sound when you turned the wheel at low speeds...
Thanks
When you turn the wheel to the left to make a turn or go up a drive way it feels like the wheel is skipping on the ground....
Not sure what this is from.. Almost feels like it is in 4 wheel drive but it's not...
What could cause this? I was thinking bad ball joints!!!
The dealer replace the swaybar links when I picked the truck because it was making a clicking sound when you turned the wheel at low speeds...
Thanks
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
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From: Long Island USA
With the wheels straight, and the hubs unlocked, and of course, not in 4x4, reach around the back of the front wheels and turn the u-joint by hand. It should be a little hard to start, but turn smooth. Not gritty or ratchety.
If the axles don't turn nicely, I bet the needle bearing inside the wheel bearing where the axle rides is dry, or just plain shot.
This makes it feel like the hubs are locked.
If the axles don't turn nicely, I bet the needle bearing inside the wheel bearing where the axle rides is dry, or just plain shot.
This makes it feel like the hubs are locked.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
Once the bearings go dry, you just by $15 replacements... that is, as long as the big $'s axle stub is OK 
Replacing that $15 bearing requires removing the wheel bearing. Not a simple thing. And doing ball-joints and u-joints while you're in there might not be that much of a stretch.
But check if those bearings are dry in the first place before we go off on a tangent
Replacing that $15 bearing requires removing the wheel bearing. Not a simple thing. And doing ball-joints and u-joints while you're in there might not be that much of a stretch.
But check if those bearings are dry in the first place before we go off on a tangent
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I brought it back to the dealer that I bought it from. I explained the problem and they said they would take care of it....
I also noticed that the steering was a little sloppy and it requires alot of small movements to keep the truck straight. They said they would check the steering box and replace if necessary...
The dealer has been great so far...
I also noticed that the steering was a little sloppy and it requires alot of small movements to keep the truck straight. They said they would check the steering box and replace if necessary...
The dealer has been great so far...
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 14,904
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From: Wayland, MI
My old 94 had those same symptoms. It ended up being the u-joint in the axle, it was almost locked up tight. I changed the u joints, packed the bearings and it drove perfect. With that u joint binding (even though the hub is unlocked) the axle couldn't make a smooth turn.
Just a thought.
Toyman
Just a thought.
Toyman
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 202
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From: Arvada, Colorado
I agree with Toyman, I thought I had a hub bearing going out. With the wheel off the ground I could spin it by hand fine. Once I turned the wheel to the right, the wheel locked up tight as I couldn't get the U-Joint to flex at all. Saw a little metal shavings in the hub so rebuilt everything together. Good Luck!
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Ok
The dealer called and they are replacing the steering box and installing new hubs...
They talked me into putting on a set of WARN manual locking hubs...
(Hope I spelled it right)
The service guy told me that they would last longer than the OEM ones would..
The only difference is I have to get out of the truck and lock the hubs if I want to put it in 4X4 and then I can use the dash selector to go in and out of 4X4
they ordered them today and they should be in tomorrow...
Are they a good choice over the OEM's?
The dealer called and they are replacing the steering box and installing new hubs...
They talked me into putting on a set of WARN manual locking hubs...
(Hope I spelled it right)
The service guy told me that they would last longer than the OEM ones would..
The only difference is I have to get out of the truck and lock the hubs if I want to put it in 4X4 and then I can use the dash selector to go in and out of 4X4
they ordered them today and they should be in tomorrow...
Are they a good choice over the OEM's?
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