I am getting ready to put my 77 F150 cab back on the frame and I need to know what the torque settings are for the mounting bolts. BTW I am using polyurethane bushings if makes any difference. Thanks.

 

Yea, it WILL make a difference. I've found nothing to indicate any torque values, so I'm getting the impression you'll have to eyeball it. I have a '79 shortbed I built from the frame up and the most frustrating thing I ran into in the re-mount was making sure the cab was straight to the steering box. I had to torque the hell out of my old hardware to get the rag joint to line up. The poly's stand quite a bit taller and don't have nearly the give that the old rubber ones did. After that, once you lower your bed you may find that the side molding does'nt quite line up. If I ever do it again here's what I'll do.... I'll mount the BED first and then mount the cab using that reference. The reason is that there are no height options in bed mounting, so thats where the cab HAS to go. For that matter, everything forward can be mounted off the bed reference. After you get your cab and clip mounted, you can remove your bed for any other mods you wanna make. Hope this helps.

 

I see the answer did not address the specific question, and the frustration of this one not being in my five-part 1971 Ford service manual (at least I haven't located it) makes it a frustration for doing it right. There are charts on the internet for different bolt torque, and I have looked at them, leaning to putting in about 55 pounds on the front mounting bolts of my 1971 Ford F100 being restored. There is a section in the manual about alignment of the cab, which boils down to making measurements to set the cab correctly.
If anyone knows the torque specifications for the cab mounts, please let us know.
When I started to take off the rear mounts, I inspected them well and found they are still in great shape, so I deferred changing them until a later year.

Don Ricks
Decatur, AL

 

There is no torque specs. You tighten the bolts until the body lines are even. The height of the body to the frame was gauged then adjusted if needed.

 

I found it somewhere a while back when I was doing mine and it was 40-45ft. lbs. I used polyurethane bushings and it seemed to work good. (I had to slightly tweak the front passenger side to get the fender aligned). Good luck

 

This is probably an area Ford should have invested more manual space, because it isn't one of their best efforts at maintenance and adjustments. I have my truck disassembled for thorough thorough restoration, painting, and adjustments. The truck will be a great piece of work when it is finished, but the aggravations of discontinued parts, limited maintenance instructions, and learning how to deal with challenges tests my resolve now and then. What the heck, I'm having fun and doing something rewarding.

Thanks for the help,

Don Ricks
Decatur, AL

 

These are 32+ year old truck and you are complaining about discontinued parts and incomplete literature!

I originally had the same question as the OP but once it was explained it made total sence. You tighten the bolt to achive a correct alignment.