Kurt, by all means ask questions. I do have the parking brake. I installed a set of Lokar cables and they are working fine. The rear piston does have the notches like you described. The brake pad actually fits in one of them. I'm also aware of the screw in piston. Just to add here, I went to the neighborhood brake place and they told me that it was difficult to bleed brake lines that have an adjustable proportioning valve in the line. Valla! I have one of those in my line... LOL... He told me to adjust the **** for full open line, then bleed the brakes using the two man method. He said it would take about 1 hour to completely bleed the brakes? Personally, I think I'd need a new MC after all that pumping. Since I bled the brakes again, I have seen some improvement, I did screw in the proportioning valve to full, but haven't tried to bleed the lines again. Getting tired of crawling under the truck for a while. I do appreciate the questions and the help very much.

 

I can add...yes, you need to bench bleed the MC...that said on my '78 Vette after replacing the MC and all the calipers (after flushing and clearing the brake lines) it took me a good hour and a half going round and round and round, to get all the air out of the lines with my MighyVac

 

By all means ask questions, I may be missing something. I was wondering about the copper washers myself. My friend said I had slight leaking around them but he torqued on them and it seemed to seal. It may still have a slight leak. I'm aware of the pistons being screwed in, and yes they have the notches. One notch fits on the pads and needs to be in that position to work properly. I also have an emergency brake. I replaced the cables with Lokar cables and they now work nicely. I went to the local Goodyear guys and they told me that with the Wilwood Adjustable proprotioning valve, it is very difficult to bleed the lines. the valve needs to be open to full and then the system bled. He told me it would take about an hour to bleed the lines? One hour?????? He had a pressure unit and wanted $100 to bleed the brakes, without any guarantee. I did adjust my proportioning valve to full open, but haven't tried bleeding the lines again. I did see improvement since the last time I bled them. At least now I can pump the pedal a couple of times and my brake lights work, that didn't happen before. I do appreciate the help and all the suggestions. I understand there are a lot of variables with brakes.

 

I did bench bleed the MC. This MC was the same with the drum brakes. Nothing has changed. The only thing I replaced was the lines from the T on the rear end to the rear discs. Everything is the same but relatively new. I do have a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve in the line which may be causing my problem with flow. I crawled under and adjusted it to full open, but haven't tried to bleed the brakes again. (getting tired of bleeding these darn things.).

Kurt- don't be afraid to ask questions, I know there are variables with brakes and it's tough. I apppreciate it. Yes, I installed Lokar brake cables and now have an e brake which is working. The piston is a screw in type like you explained also. There is one notch on the piston that goes on the brake pad to hold in place. I'm concerned about the copper washers leaking because I did notice some moisture even slight.

 

Just to update on what is happening. My next door neighbor came and helped me bleed the brakes. The brakes seem to be bled and I have a good pedal. Now I noticed that the drivers side wheel brakes quicker than the passenger side wheel. It appears the Cadillac caliper is not adjusted exactly as the driver's side. (if that makes sense). The emergency brake on the driver's side locks the wheel whereas the passenger is slightly dragging. I've had more trouble adjusting these stupid Cadillac caliper than I could even explain. Now, I'm at the point where a mechanic familiar with these calipers can adjust them. Otherwise, everything else appears good. Thank you all for your advice, etc. Next time, I'm not wasting my time with Cadillac self adjusting Ebrake calipers. Anyone else in here have experience with these sorry calipers?

 

Ed, I,m glad to hear your getting somewhere. I think you have convinced me to stick with the rear drums.

 

Ed, glad to hear your able to bleed them. I've had some real horror stories I've encounlterd but I shant bore you with them. If one side caliper is draging while other is locked up could the loose side have the piston screwed out 1 notch on piston ??? I don't remember if that can be done by any means other than unbolting caliper and cycling park brake lever. At one time Sears charged $39.99 for power bleed. Don't know about now, nor if I'd trust them with that sweet truck.. Keep us posted on how it all works, I'm sure many of us will be doing this type of upgrade. Kurt G. Y-blocks rule.

 

Wayne, although disc in the rear are very nice, I don't think I would do this conversion again. If I wasn't concerned about having an ebrake, this would of be a piece of cake. The cadillac calipers are difficult to adjust and to work with.

Kurt- A good friend of mine who builds streetrods helped me adjust the drivers side caliber (the one that works). He actually had to take and remove the piston to see how the ratchet self adjuster worked. We placed the caliper and the rotor in a vise and adjusted the caliper to the rotor that way, then we put it all back together and prayed! We tried everything to adjust the piston to the rotor and we couldn't do it. I still don't know what we did to get it to adjust as close as it did??? LOL... Looks like we may have to do the same thing on the passenger side, which is no picnic to do. There is a place near me who specialize in Cadillac repair. He wants $80 to adjust everything which right now sounds like money well invested. LOL... I know there has to be an easy way of adjusting these calipers, I just don't know what it is despite researching this thing on the internet, etc.

Goodyear wanted $100 to power bleed the brakes. Sears sounded like a deal!.

 

Calipers aren't that hard to adjust. If its the piston that twists with the tool you just turn them out slightly so that the piston touches pad when pad is seated against rotor if that makes any sense, not sure if I'm phrasing it right. Turn caliper out until it wont fit over pads then turn in until it is snug fitting over pads but not forced on and if you do that evenly on both sides you shouldn't have a problem and pedal should feel good. If you turn in too far the piston doesn't contact pad right away and gives you a low pedal.