302 "knocking"

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Nov 21, 2007 | 06:42 PM

#16

mikeh98

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Quote:

Originally Posted by HemiEater

whats the oil psi when it hot at idle?

Right in the middle of the gauge. Don't know actual psi. Hydraulic lifters are quiet, no tapping. Oil is clean, no shavings.

Nov 21, 2007 | 07:41 PM

#17

HemiEater

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get a machanical gauge on it.
check the 15/16 crank bolt, make sure it's tight.
were the cam bearings replaced?

also when it's making the noise remove the drive belts see what happens....

did you pull the plug wires yet?

Nov 21, 2007 | 07:43 PM

#18

Bdox

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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada

Mike: "
Correct me if I'm wrong but on a four stroke engine isn't cam 1/4 engine rpm? Would really like to know what oil pump rpm is. Suspect that it is 1/2 engine rpm."

The camshaft turns 1/2 the speed of the crank. Power strokes occur on alternate rotations of the crank.

Nov 21, 2007 | 09:20 PM

#19

mikeh98

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Quote:

Originally Posted by HemiEater

Will do on the real gauge. Did not remove the drive belts but did check for loose crank damper or interference with oil pan. Cam bearings were replaced after align honing the cam journals. Will pull plug wires tomorrow.

Thanks

Last edited by mikeh98; Nov 21, 2007 at 09:22 PM.

Nov 23, 2007 | 04:54 AM

#20

HemiEater

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about the plug wire thing......read the first post..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pressure.html

Nov 25, 2007 | 06:57 PM

#21

mikeh98

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OK psi when hot is 34psi. If I drop the pan and discover bad rod bearing, when I take the crank to the machine shop do I take the rod with it so that they can grind the journal and provide a new and properly sized bearing for that rod?

Nov 25, 2007 | 07:13 PM

#22

HemiEater

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did you pull the plug wires yet and confirm a rod bearing like in the post above?..or are you just going to pull it apart and maybe waste your time and money.......

Nov 25, 2007 | 07:15 PM

#23

HemiEater

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if that oil psi is hot on an idle, it might not be a rod. Pull the plug wires one at a time. confirm before you replace......

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Nov 25, 2007 | 07:50 PM

#24

mikeh98

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Quote:

Originally Posted by HemiEater

did you pull the plug wires yet and confirm a rod bearing like in the post above?..or are you just going to pull it apart and maybe waste your time and money.......

Sorry for the brevity of my post. I wrongfully assumed that a question about machine work would lead one to the conclusion that I had isolated the problem. For the record it has been isolated to the number one cylinder using the plug wire removal method. Odd that the one giving the problem is closest to the oil pump. Obviously I made a mistake when I assembled the engine. Anyway can I get an answer to the machine shop question?

Thanks

P.S. Should have read 24 psi not 34. Fingers are too big for keyboard.

Last edited by mikeh98; Nov 25, 2007 at 08:47 PM.

Nov 26, 2007 | 04:29 AM

#25

HemiEater

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if you spun a bearing you will have to pull the motor and start over......much easyer with the motor out. I have tried it with the motor in and it's not worth it.

The crank could be ok, I would mic it and see. but you will have to pull the head and get that piston rod assy out and to the machine shop to be resized....sucks but it got to come apart.....

and if anyone here tells you "you can pull the crank out with the pistons and rods still in the block" they have never tried it. I did that with a 351W on an engine stand and it's almost imposable to get the crank out.. you would be way better off just pulling the motor.

Sorry..... I know it sucks.....

Nov 26, 2007 | 04:31 AM

#26

HemiEater

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never assume anything.......it's the mother of all Fuuckups

Nov 26, 2007 | 12:22 PM

#27

mikeh98

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Yeah I know it has to come out. I prefer to pull engine and tranny out as a unit. Have all the equipment and tools to do it anyway. Don't really mind. My grandfather taught me that anything worth doing is worth doing right. Too bad something wasn't right the first time.

Thanks for help.