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What is involved in a driveway replacement of front coils, anys tips to help it go smoother , advice that some have learned along the way. I have a general idea what is needed to be done. Replacing my front coils with new , I think mine are sagging, they have 172K on em'.
Replacing the coils are not too bad! Depending on rust. You have to jack and support one side, I place the jack stand behind the radius arm bracket. Then keep the jack under the punkin. Remove the shock. Next for safety and room, remove and pull the caliper out of the way, not necessary but helps. you should keep the truck up (coil compressed) Remove the bolt that holds the retainer on the top outer spring tower, remove the retainer. Carefully double check and the begin to lower the axle down, the spring will begin to stretch and come down and out. You will then need a series of 1/2" extensions and a good ratchet, with a cheater bar, some blaster and a 1-1/16 6 pt socket. You have to remove the nut on the bottom of the spring. This will remove the disc that holds the spring down, if the nut, disc or insulator are bad you can get them right from the dealer, usually a stocked item in my neck of the woods. I had to heat the nuts off with a torch due to rust. I hope this helps any other questions please post and ask.
With Extensions I think is what he means! Personally I have better luck with a breaker bar and a cheater bar close by. Alot of PB or your choice penetrating oil will make the difference. You still need 12 plus inches of extensions. A torch if its stubborn will make it easy. Torch in careful and experienced hands that is.
or you could disconnect everything that's gonna hold it in(IE shocks) jack the truck up as high as you can until there is absolutely no travel left in the Ibeams unbolt the spring like said above pull the old one out put the new one in do the other side and slowly let the truck down...easy as pie.Luck
Socket size is 1 1/8 in. I just did mine. Same removal instructions as above. I was able to squeeze a 1/2 in breaker bar in there. I used a 3/4 drive socket, an adapter, a 1/2 in breaker bar and a 4 foot section on 1" pipe. Took like 30 minutes per side.
Myself I'd cut the old spring off right at the base so I had unobstructed access to that bolt.
Beats using a long extension/s or working through the coil, replacing the springs anyway right?
OT, Now and then and for the longest time yesterday I can't get into back into the site, I refresh the page and get a error screen. Is it just me or is everyone getting that page where it says, "Try to refresh" "a email was sent...." and to contact tech for help?
Yea Dan I keep gettin the same thing...when it goes to the error page I just hit the back button then click on what I was trying to get to initially and it usually goes through...Later
Yea Dan I keep gettin the same thing...when it goes to the error page I just hit the back button then click on what I was trying to get to initially and it usually goes through...Later
JR
Ok thanks JR, Just wanted to make sure it wasn't my end, tried a different computer but had the same error last night.
Cleared cookies and temp files and so on but didn't help. Now I know why!
Like Everyone said . Don't forget to take shocks loose.And remove and support brake Caliber. Once spring is decompressed you can step on hub and push down the spring will come right out if not already out.
Replace spring in reverse and use jack to press it in place
As much as you truck weights you may want to get set F350 2x4 dually coils . Don't effect ride . At least get a set of load handler springs. Later
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