Clutch Recommendations
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Clutch Recommendations
I'm going to be needing to replace my clutch on my 93' f150 with the mazda 5 speed real soon. I was planning on also changing the slave cylinder at the same time. Are the more expensive luk clutches worth the extra money over the offbrand oem replacements? Are there any tricks to bleeding the line after installing a new slave cylinder? I've never changed a clutch with an internal slave cylinder before.
Thanks,
Brad
Thanks,
Brad
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From: Kalamazoo, MI
We use Borg-Warner. Not the most expensive, certainly not the cheapest. There are structural differences in the cheap cheap ones that make them slightly less reliable, but you can't argue with a wallet.
pump the living snot out of the pedal
Are there any tricks to bleeding the line after installing a new slave cylinder
Last edited by JLDickmon; Nov 20, 2007 at 06:01 AM.
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From: Chippewa Falls, WI
I used to work at a parts store and we sold only LUK cluches. We did at one time carry a cheaper brand but gave it up because of numerous customer problems. I can only think of one LUK unit that came back but it was for some little thing the installer noticed before putting it in.
If you plan on keeping the truck for quite a while, I would use a high quality piece, if you are going to sell it in the next couple of years save yourself some dollars.
I would also use a good quality slave cylinder too, since it is just as hard to change as the cluch itself, Look for Raybestos or Borg Warner, either of these should be as good a piece as your origional ford one. There is a good chance it may even be made by ford, I have seen that a lot, "aftermarket" parts that if you look closely have the ford oval on them.
One of those vacume bleaders works well on bleeding the system, or just pump the living snot out of it.
If you plan on keeping the truck for quite a while, I would use a high quality piece, if you are going to sell it in the next couple of years save yourself some dollars.
I would also use a good quality slave cylinder too, since it is just as hard to change as the cluch itself, Look for Raybestos or Borg Warner, either of these should be as good a piece as your origional ford one. There is a good chance it may even be made by ford, I have seen that a lot, "aftermarket" parts that if you look closely have the ford oval on them.
One of those vacume bleaders works well on bleeding the system, or just pump the living snot out of it.
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Stay away from DuraFAIL clutch kits, had to get 4 of them before one worked. I didnt. My neighbor did, finally got his money back, bought the LUK and first time no problem. Replace what you can while its apart. Check rear main seal on engine if its leaky replace it now.
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Ok thanks a lot...yeah actually I was looking at the durablast ones lol...but I think I'm just going to buy a luk. I know LUK has different grades of their clutches...under normal conditions (everyday driving without extensive pulling) will the gold clutch set last a lot longer than their cheaper grades?
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From: Chippewa Falls, WI
I would say it probably will. I would say consiter the age of the truck, the miles currently on it and how many more you think you plan to put on it.
Even if you don't pull much if at all but you plan on keeping the truck for quite a while yet I would suggest just getting the gold one.
Even if you don't pull much if at all but you plan on keeping the truck for quite a while yet I would suggest just getting the gold one.
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Originally Posted by kell104
I would say it probably will. I would say consiter the age of the truck, the miles currently on it and how many more you think you plan to put on it.
Even if you don't pull much if at all but you plan on keeping the truck for quite a while yet I would suggest just getting the gold one.
Even if you don't pull much if at all but you plan on keeping the truck for quite a while yet I would suggest just getting the gold one.
Thanks,
Brad