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Ok guys i need major help with my major problem
i have a 292 and lost compression on one whole side(the first cyl side), meaning im running only 4 cyl at this momment.. What is the best way to fix this? buy a new block? rebuild? also which ever way is best i need to be cheapest as i am only a 17 year old trying to get this problem fixed. I have a few older friends that have rebuild motors before and said it wouldnt be that bad just to do it and then take it and have the heads cleaned and bored and all... So with this info do you think you could tell me why i am having this problem? and what is the best way to fix this and the cheapest? Also is it best that when i go to rebuild it to just bore it out to something a little bigger as i read on another post theres a lot to play with on it?
Also anyone willing to sell a decent or rebuilt block for a pretty good price?
Thanks a bunch guys this site is amazing and ive used it many of times for resources.
Brent
I had one that had less than 20psi compression on cyl 1,2,3,4 and when I pulled the head off all the false valve seats had fallen out. You also need to beware that if you drive on the four cyl you a good chance of breaking the crank
These are some MINIMUM rebuilding costs.
Overbore: $100
New Pistons and rings $120 (price from Dennis Carpenter on ebay)
New Timing gears and chain $40
Regrind crank (probably is needed) $100
New main and rod bearings $110 if lucky
Complete gasket set $50 (bottom line in quality)
Clean block and heads $70
If lifters and cam are worn $300
Grind valves and set spring height $86
Oil pump $80
The list doesnt include replacement of some likely worn items like valve springs or valves, and doesnt include resizing rods, replacement of rod bushings, line hone of mains, balancing, insertion of valve seats/guides, cam bearings, or any distributor work.
Rebuilding a Y is challenging for many of us financially.
I have a running complete 292 in a 64 ford pickup that I am willing to sell. If you are interested, I live in Northern new Mexico. You can come and hear it run and do a compression test if you like. The truck is not driveable due to some wiring butchery and a bad column shifter. However, I have run the engine until it is fully warmed up with no water leaks. etc. price is negotiable, I am thinking about$450. is a fair price. come listen to it and we can pull it and you can take it with you. Craig
check your push rods , and that oil is get up to the slide that is low in compress sumtime the cam bearing turn and block of the oil , check your valve gap to 19 tho cold ? take a valve cover off and have a look then get back to us and $450 sounds good to me if is a sweet sounding 292
I would pull the head off the side with no compression. Could be a bad head gasket. Could be valve lifter related. If it just happened and it is the entire side, I doubt it is the block.
tx may i ask if your values were going up and down on the side with no compress ? b4 you take the head off , and that all push rods were working , im just being fuss ,e ok ,if they were it may just be a head sealing one that slide , you may just be lucky
Well i stopped playing with the truck for quite a while as i was able to get another car from a family member to drive for a while. Now its back to time to work on the truck again. I had talked to a friend of my fathers who owns a car dealership and such and he had told me to put a while bottle of Marvil Mystery Oil in the carb. I ended up doing so which it smoked as he said it would and i drove it after the smoke. The truck seemed to drive perfectly fine. Maybe still missing 1 cyl, not for sure as i was only able to drive it up and down the street once due to no brakes... (pressure sensor was squirting brake fluid out, easy fix just waiting on the part) It might have been that my valves were just gummed up extremely bad. I have another bottle that i am pouring into it as soon as i get the brake sensor and the alt installed. Thanks a bunch guys and might want to try so yourself some time if you ever have a problem like such
well it did as it ungummed and burned the gummyness. It smokes untill all of it has ran out of the system. But was squirting out of the pressure sensor on the master cylander. I have already fixed this problem as the part as already arrived
Have you ever removed your valve covers and checked to see that oil is getting to the rockers? Has this truck been sitting a long time? If you don't have good oiling at the valves, the cam probably isn't getting enough oil either. Y's don't have the best oiling system in the first place. There is an old thread about flushing the oil system if you search.
well it did as it ungummed and burned the gummyness. It smokes untill all of it has ran out of the system. But was squirting out of the pressure sensor on the master cylander. I have already fixed this problem as the part as already arrived
Where was the gummyness which the mystery oil burned up?