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I've never understood that test done by Bob the Oil Guy.
I have been using Lucas in a little Honda Civic 4WD.
I've pulled the dipstick and checked in side the rocker cover and the oil looks like oil, no milky discoloration.
I've never understood that test done by Bob the Oil Guy.
I have been using Lucas in a little Honda Civic 4WD.
I've pulled the dipstick and checked in side the rocker cover and the oil looks like oil, no milky discoloration.
I completely agree there, never have seen anything on the dipstick but a golden brown.
My opinion the key ingredient that this guy leaves out is HEAT. You can't fully test something without all the key ingredients and heat is a major factor.
I use Lucas in everything on the place. My Tahoe gained about 1.5 mpg with the lucas in the engine (has 195,000 miles now) trans, and rear end.
98 Dodge truck that had a history of trans problems went over 200,000 using the Lucas in the trans.
I'm not saying any of this is scientific, just my experience. We do not have the cold in AR that you do up north, and that could be a factor?
I was a over the road trucker for 23 years,I bought a western star new with a n-14 cummins and used rotella 15-40 and two gallons of lucas every oil change,I changed my oil every 30,000 miles and drove the truck up to 1 million 993,000 miles and never did anything to the engine accept for adjusting the over head and one clutch.My friend still drives this truck to this day and the engine still has not been rebuilt at 2 million 346,000 miles,Is lucas good well every truck driving friend i have that use it got many more miles than those that didnt,I think its the best and i have it in eveything i own my checy suburban with 500,000 miles and the original engine and over drive tranny both had lucas since new,My push mower and riding mower also have it,If it runs it has lucas in it around here.
that is the dummest test ever. it proves nothing at all. to be truly scientific about it he should have tested one oil in both sides, lucas in one and one without. then see what happens. and a heating element would have made it better too. his test imo proved absolutly nothing.
But guys, you guys don't know the facts. This makes your 5w/10w-30 into a 40w-60 or 40w-70.
ALSO, it has absolutely NO additives. It's just pure base stock. WTF. This is junk, and since I have seen the VOA on BITOG, I haven't ever put it in another engine.
Again, it has no add pack and it makes your oil way thicker than you think. It's best to use no additives. Each oil has it's own chemistry to work with it's own ingredients.
It's like a cake, you can't just go and add 2 more eggs to it because you like eggs.
Iceman had it right. I never understood the value in oil thickener additives, just go up one or two grades of oil at no extra cost if your engine smokes or has low hot pressure. The old STP was the same way in the 1960's, huge promotion budget around racing events to sell the stuff.
I feel that this site is better than BITOG for getting down to the nitty-gritty on oils and additives. No way will I use aftermarket additives, after reading this interesting eye opener. I live in da frozen "You Pee" and am using 5w20 dino in my '94 Mazda B-4000 which has 177,770 on the odometer. It burns a qt of oil every 300mi. and has since it was given to me back in Sept w/175.xxx on it It is -5F outside as I type, and will be far colder by morning. It starts like a champ with no undo stress on the battery or starter. Lucas in it? No way. I need a lubricant in it, not cement.
My old '86 2.9 Ranger needed the oil additives due to it's main's being tired, the lifters would chatter away without it and the oil pressure drop to almost nothing. This engine is quiet and the oil pressure is good. I also keep my spare oil in the house, not in the truck or my garage.
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