ok am definitely getting powerslot cyro rotors and hawk pads for my 01 ex this week but since i had problems last night i am thinking about replacing all the calipers too
i still dont know what is wrong but i want everything in perfect shape

should i replace them all or just the pins?

and if i replace them should i go aftermarket and if so what brand?

and is there anything else besides calipers,rotors and pads to be done?

thanks for any and all help

 

What problems did you experience? I have replaced slide pins, rotors and pads on the front only on the 02 and the brakes work great.

Unless you have a leaking caliper, I don't think that you will need to replace them.

 

last night i pulled up to a stop sign and the pedal went to the floor and the truck rolled forward, luckily i wasnt going fast

i crawled into a parking lot and when i stopped again it stopped but made a grinding noise and then the truck was like stuck, i put it in reverse and it popped loose and seemed ok, i drove it around the parking lot some and it seems ok as long i brake really soft so i crawled it home

it seems like a caliper sticking???? but i dont really know what i am talking about, never had one do that
if a caliper sticks will i lose all brake pressure?
someone said i maybe a pad disintegrated?

i am not taking it apart and will not haul it to the shop until the powerslots and hawks are here, so i wont know until the end of the week prob what is really wrong

i dont want to waste money but i do want my brakes to be in excellent condition, i drive about 50,000 or more miles a year

 

hmm, ran out of room

anway i was thinking i would decide about the calipers after we get it apart

main thing i need to know is if the ford calipers are fine for replacement if i need any? i did a search on this and found some posts about second and third generation calipers??

 

I'll be watching this thread as well.... I am going to upgrade my brakes very soon, i plan on replacing all four calipers and rotors, pads as well. I have a broken bleed nipple in the rear left one, and the front left caliper is going bad. The truck pulls very very hard to the left when braking, ONLY when it's raining out. When it's dry out, it stops straight as an arrow, however very weak. I replaced the rotors and pads on the front before i left on the road trip this spring, as pieces of the rotor was missing on the braking surface. I put in cheapo stock rotors and cheap pads. When i'm too far out on a stoplight to go through it when it turns yellow, i find myself holding the brakes to the floor and cutting it close most of the time. Im planning on going with cryoed powerslots and hawk pads all the way around, and, new calipers. The SSBC 10 piston calipers is the cat's meow, however it's about $800 a corner or MORE. I was just planning on replacing them with stock calipers unless there is a middle-of-the road caliper upgrade for a few hundred dollars. I also want to put a manual ball valve in the line going to the rear brakes, a manual line lock to make burnouts 100% safe on the rear brakes, get much better control from only front braking and it will save the rear rotors/pads.

 

800 a corner????? are you kidding???


i found some on line for 60 a caliper, cannot remember the brand, think it started with an A

i will price ford dealer tomorrow for them, jeez 800 a corner, i keep my truck in perfect running condition but that is wayyyy out of my price range

 

honeyb,

With a total loss of pedal, I would say that you have a problem with the master cylinder or hydro unit. Unless you totally blew out a seal, I don't know how calipers would cause that kind of a problem.

If you get new Ford calipers you should receive the newest generation which will look very similiar to the ones you have but will also have the newest generation of caliper slide pins. The best price for OEM calipers will most likely be at www.powerstrokeshop.com.

The grinding noise you heard could also have something to do with the PS pump trying to compensate for a problem in the hydro.

 

Here are a few tidbits I've picked up in the past several weeks while running through an MC replacement on my '02 F250 and investigating all the upgrade options.

Stick with Ford OEM for a new MC, the aftermarkets all have bad reps from the local mechanics I've spoken with. Besides, if you go with Y2K Ford (or Millenium Ford, which is another name for the same site sponsor), you have great folks toi deal with and they'll beat any other price I could find on other brands of new MC's. One caveat... ask for, or buy separately, a bench bleed kit, because the stock MC from Y2K does not include one.

Whenever you complete the job, using Speedbleeders makes teh brake bleeding process a whole lot easier.

Upgrade options... I could not find another MC from either the F350, F450, or F550 that had a larger MC piston diameter,. so teh stock MC is about it as far as I can find.

HOWEVER... in relation to the calipers and rotors, there may be several options for you. The SSBC system taht Kris mentioned is for sure at the $8000 per corner for the top of the line 10-piston series, and that does NOT include rotors. They have other units with 8 and 6 pistons, IIRC, not sure about those prices.

HERE's the interesting part. Over in the Superduty forum, there is another thread that has been going through a discussion about using the larger rotors and calipers from an F450 for the F250 front end, and the conversion will work, but they have been dealing with a 4WD vehicle. Not sure, but perhaps it could work out with a 2WD vehicle. If it could work, you'd be getting larger rotors and heavier calipers.

Just a few thoughts to ponder.

 

i forgot to put in my sig all my trucks are 4wd, that sounds promising on the bigger rotors, will that work with my 16 in tires?

does the 1 ton come with a better braking set up? i have not ever had any problems with it other than just maintenance and it has 310,000 on it


so it sounds to me like the ford calipers are ok quality? no one seems to be chiming in about any other except for the 800 dollar ones and i am not spending that much, last week i just dropped about 2500 in some work on the rear end and some mods, no problem putting some decent brakes on it but if i am spending another 3000 this week it will be for a dynatrack front end

 

can someone clear something up for me, is there a hydroboost AND a master cylinder or are they the same thing?

and would either of those going out be intermittent? becuase it seemed fine on the way home when i was breaking lightly

when it first happened i pulled into a parking lot and when i hit the brakes and then released they stuck and then popped loose, after that i was REAL light and it did not mess up again

thanks for all you guys help!

 

The Master Cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost unit... two separate units altogether.

Might just be a seal leaking internally in your MC. When mine started going out right at the end of the warmer weather, here, I could stop on a downhill grade, and then within 20 seconds feel the truck starting to creep forward.. press harder... and it would then creep again. However, once it got colder, the problem was no longer apparent under the exact same conditions on the same downhill grades. I concluded that it was a seal that was just barely beginning to let go and that the cooler ambient temps allowed things to "contract" enough so that it sealed OK again... changed the MC anyway because I was not going to wait for it to completely blow apart inside (almost 140,000 miles on the MC).

 

ok

and i want a ford hydroboost and a ford master cylinder if it comes to that

also is there a way to check? is the master cylinder going to do different things than the hydroboost if we get it on a lift or drive it??

 

Those questions, I cannot answer. You have now extracted my knowledge to it's braking limits... not to be too punny, here.

 

Of course they will do different things. The hydraboost is the way our trucks power the master cylinder in the absence of a vacuum line in gassers. That gives us power brakes. If your power steering is working fine, and I suspect it is, then we zero in on the brakes. The master cylinder will either take the boost/power assist from the hydraboost and work or it won't. If you have good brake assist then you may have blown a seal in a caliper piston.

That is why I recommended pulling all the wheels and inspecting in your other post. At any rate, when addressing this problem, I recommend fully bleeding/flushing your brake system as I suspect moisture may be in there as well.

 

Here's another observation from my MC change several weeks ago, and one that I just came across last night while re-inspecting my repair, flush, and bleed job.

During the day on Saturday, I popped open the hood because someone wanted to see my intake arraangement. Looking at the MC, it appeared that the fluid level had seeped down to the critical point below the molded side seam of the reservoir.

Finally got around to digging into it last night (having not driven the truck any more since the Saturday discovery.

Checked all four bleeder valves on the calipers to make sure none were loose... none were.

Tried re-tightening the power steering line connections on the hydroboost unit... couldn't move them any more... they were already truly tight.

Got ready to try re-tightening the bolts connecting the MC to the hydroboost unit, bumped the MC reservoir with my big crescent wrench, and saw what looked like a shadow shimmering around the top should of the reservoir... opened it up, and the dang thing was compeltely full to the proper level.

The new fluid I used was a pale yellow fluid, and Ijust could not see the fluid surface interface in the daylight through the translucent reservoir.

First point is.... I eveidently gave the system a good flush because there was absolutely no discoloration in three weeks of driving.

Second point is... and this is the recommendation I take away from the situation... a dark colored fluid is more easily kept track of in the reservoir. I'll be switching over to the "blue" fluid very soon so I don't ever get tempted to top it off when it's already topped off.