I have a 2002 4wd Ranger with 4 wheel ABS. The first problem I had was when slowing down the ABS pump would come on about 20mph till it stopped. The ABS light on the dash was not on or would it come on when this happened.
I replaced the vss sensor and now as soon as I get over 15mph the ABS light will come on and stay on. It stops fine but the ABS is not working.
My question is, has anybody ever heard of this problem? Is this somthing that needs to be put on a code reader at the dealership? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Get the code pulled

 

I have a similar problem. There are 3 VSS that can be at fault.....one on each front hub and one on the rear differential. To know which one is bad, you have to have a special diagnostic tool for the ABS (the OBD II reader will not check the ABS). If you pull the fuse for the ABS you should get a CEL and pull code P0500 but it will not tell you which sensor is bad. I had to go to the dealer to pull the ABS code but any good shop should have the tool (Autozone free scan does not trap ABS codes). There was also another thread here this past summer where the tone ring was bad on the hub, but it seems this problem is very rare.

Which sensor did you replace?

In my case, I went the hit or miss approach and replaced the $16 VSS on the rear differential first hoping to get lucky but it was not to be. The dealer's ABS scan reported the front right VSS is bad ....a $176 part.

Pat

 

I replaced the diff. VSS sensor. Took it to a shop on Sat. they pulled the code. Its the left front sensor. Got one on E-bay brand new for $85. As soon as it gets here I will give that a try.

 

Can you share the ebay link where you purchased the sensor and provide the results and experiences after the replacement. I got good instructions from Rockledge on the front VSS I could share. I am interested to know how difficult the task is. What did your shop charge to pull the code (if you don't mind me asking)? Thanks. Pat

 

I just did a search on E bay for Ford Ranger Sensor. There were two of them on there over the weekend. Sensor pretty easy to get to, pulled off the caliper, rotor and then the shield. Just one allen bolt holds the sensor in the hub. I pulled mine out to check it after I got home from the shop. Sure enough it had the plastic off of the part that is sitting near the exciter ring. The guy at the shop ran the codes for free. Its a local shop. All ASE certified.

John

 

Did you obtain the sensor and install it? Are things are well now? What was the Motorcraft part number for the sensor you purchased?

I see the sensor in eBay, however the part number (BRAB115) does not match to the part prescribed on the motorcraft site (BRAB71).

 

I put the sensor in today. The ABS light is now out but when you slow down to 10mph the ABS pump comes on again. The part number BRAB-115 is what shows for my truck on the Motorcraft web site. (2002, 4.0L, 4WD). So it looks like Iam going to end up taking it in to the dealer. I hope I dont get beat-up too bad there. I might go back up to the shop again and see if it shows any codes now.

 

Arrrggghhh....tough break (no pun intended). If you don't mind please post your next steps and results. I am anxious to see how you progress. I already have the dealer repair quote for mine and it ain't pretty.

 

What does the dealer want for the fix??????????

 

$376 total.....$173 for the sensor + nearly $200 labor.

 

Update on my brake problem. I went ahead and replaced the right side ABS sensor.
FIXED IT!!!!!!!!!! So Iam not sure if and when you do replace the front sensors that you should go ahead and do them both at the same time. Originaly the code reader only said left front sensor was bad, nothing about the right side. Maybe the magnet on the left side was stronger (being new) and was throwing off the ABS?????

 

My replacement sensor arrived this afternoon and I will update you after tomorrow. The dealer's code reader only pointed to the right-front sensor as bad so I'll give you another data point on your theory.

Glad yours is fixed. Curious....what made you replace the other sensor absent any other data?

Pat

 

I just figured thats the only thing that I could replace that wouldnt cost an arm and a leg. Take your time getting the old one out. My left one broke in the hole and took some work with dental tools to get that little piece out. Just route the wires exactly like it is from the factory and you will be fine. Good luck!! John

 

Fixed it!

Replaced the right-front sensor as the dealer diagnostics reported. Thanks for the tip John on removing the old sensor....it was in the back of my mind the whole time. It was very diffiucult to remove, I made myself be patient, I kept spraying WD40, rotating it, working it loose, but never really forcing it. It is a very tight fit and tight o-ring. When I finally got it out, the outer shell to the sensor was still in the hole and the coil was exposed....not sure if that was the failure or it seperated from me working it. Removed the shell, made sure the hole was clean and no trash fell in. Biggest problem I had was removing the screw holding the clamp strap for the wiring located on the backside of the hub. I hate how some screws on the truck are metric and some are english! From there, just routed the new wire along the same path as the original. Replacement part was very complete with clips to mount to frame and other cables.

Did a brief test drive and for first 2-3 stops the ABS would engage...kinda like it was "relearning" the new sensor. After that, it functioned as it was suppose to. Will proceed cautiously until I'm fully confident. Really glad to have this repair behind me.

Pat