Alright, turns out that Caterpillar owns the tools to do the project and I am borrowing them for the weekend. I also ordered 4 sleeves and 4 injector o-rings from International. Hopefully I only have 1 sleeve bad, but I bought 3 extras just in case. I bought 4 o-ring kits in case I have to pull 4 injectors to find the cracked sleeve.

A few last questions:

1) The part number the International parts rep gave me was 1814376. Another thread I read in my search through the forum said it was 1814376C1. Is there a difference of did the rep just not mention the C1 part.

2) How likely is it that i have more than one bad sleeve? If there is more than one bad sleeve, I sure hope its in the same head.

3) I got to talking to a mechanic that works at Cat and he said that is sounds logical to him that a cracked sleeve can cause a power loss? Is this feasible, I can go both ways on this one.

4) What are the torque specs on the injector hold down bolts and valve cover bolts? I think I read 25 ft/lb for the injector bolts but just want to verify that.

5) If I drain my coolant system, would refilling with tap water and run it with the heater on and then drain again hurt anything. I have heard that anything but distilled water can leave deposits. What is that chances? Also, the mechanic I talked to had said that if the coolant system is flushed so that it is finally just clear that I can refill my coolant system with orange coolant instead of green like original. This is true correct? About how much do I need?

Sorry for asking so many questions guys. Just want all of my questions answered as I go through the process in my head. I am mechanically inclined but just want to be sure of what I'm doing.

Thanks ahead of time.
Nic.

 

Not sure on the part number, you could have more than one cracked and it could be on oposite sides. I would replace all eight if I were you. I actually had some power loss on start ups after she sat for a night. And the tap water should not be bad for a few min. I am not quite sure the specs on the injectors but is is not that much.

On a diffrent note, What do the tools look like that the dealer let you barrow?

 

Also be sure to drain antifreeze prior to pulling the sleeves and dont forget the lock tight

 

I'm prety sure the injector bolt torque is 120in.lbs.or 10ft.lbs.one bolt.It is the one on the outboard side of the head.Directly inline with the injector.

 

something just came to my mind...there is a little bit of white smoke on startup in the mornings only...could that be the coolant that accumulatse over night from the cracked sleeve being burnt off?


EDIT:i heard use and approval of that coolant made by peak for heavy duty engines at wal-mart..i just picked up some and im going to flush my system with water/coolant flush....do i need to add the additive or not

 

Have you pressure tested the system to make sure you need them?....

 

no not yet .. im pretty sure thats what it is...i stated in previous threads that i have fuel in my coolant reservoir...sorry forgot to restate tghat

 

VC Bolts = 8 ft-lb
Injector Bolts (the singel per Dry Fly) = 10 ft-lb
Rocker Arms (while you're in there) = 20 ft-lb

 

i have been thinking and do you have to pull the rear most injector first or can i
find which head has the cracked sleeve and pull whichever one i want first


EDIT: will the coolant system hold pressure if their in not a cracked sleeve. For example, if I replace the cracekd sleeve and pressurize the coolant system again, will it hold that pressure so that i know that there are no other cracked sleeves?

 

and also, I sat down and wrote down the procedure as far as I understand it so it can be criticized or added to from those who know better than I:


1) disconnect negative sides of batteries
2) remove fuel lines from fuel bowl
3) pressurize coolant system to determine which head has the cracked cup
4) remove intercooler tubes and valve covers for the head with fuel leaking from its respective fuel line
5) drain coolant system
6) drain fuel rails
7) disconnect overflow on injector and remove bolts to injector
8) remove injector
9) check for cracked fuel sleeve
10) repeat steps 7-9 until cracked sleeve(s) are found
11) remove sleeve using tools
12) clean bore to remove residue
13) install new sleeve using threadlock
14) put new o-rings on the injectors pulled
15) dip injector in fresh oil and re-install, torquing them to 10 ft lb
16) check that rocker arms are torqued to 20 ft lb
17) bump engine with fuel pump fuse pulled to purge cylinder of fuel and oil that may have slipped into cylinder
18) re-install fuel pump fuse, valve cover, and intercooler tubes
19) re-connect batteries
20) flush coolant system
21) refill coolant system
22) add fuel additive and your good to go


How does this soudn? What needs to be added or anything that is not necessary. Thakns for the help.

 

I had a ton of white smoke on start up, after i replaced all eight Sleeves it has not smoked like that again. Its really not a hard job if you have the tools, just takes alot of time. I would buy 4 more and replace all eight. I pressure tested mine and found two that were cracked so i replaced just those two. Two weeks later i was back under doing the other 6 because there was one i didnt find.
If you have the big tap you are gonna have to take one of the rocker arms off and the injector stud that is left afer you pull the injector out. After you pull all the cups and bang the new ones in (dont forget lock tight) put all your injectors back in and take out all your glow plugs because you need to manually crank the engine and blow all the coolant and water out of the cylinders. after you are sure your safe from hydrolocking you can put it all back together.

While you have your plugs out I would put an ohm meter to them to see if any are getting weak.

 

just replaced the plugs a couple weeks ago

 

sweet no worries then. If you have the same tool i have, there is kinda a round mold that gets everything straight in the hole so when you start threading it goes directly into the sleeve and not into the side of the injector wall. That mold is what wont fit unless the 1 rocker arm and injector stud are removed.

 

ok, im not sure yet, i dont have the tool yet but at least i know now

but do you know whether the coolant system holds a pressure unless another sleeve is crackeD?

 

you said you bought 4 sleeves already? i know when i bought mine from ford, it was like 85 bucks. its worth doing them all at once just so you dont have to do multiple sleeves at diffrent times. I started on the pass side, just to get the harder side done first. Have you ever pulled any of your injectors?