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Okay, I've got my 6 on the engine stand and have taken the pan off. The Haynes manual says I have to ream the considerable ridge at the top of the cylinders before I take the pistons out. Can't I just take them out the bottom of the block after I remove the crank (I do that on my antique tractors)? I'm going to have the cylinders bored anyhow so is there any real need to ream the ridges? Thanks!
On some engines they will clear to pull them through the bottom but I am not sure you can on that engine. It depends how close the main bearing support casting comes to the end of the cylinder bore. I know you could not on the smaller sixes like the 144, 170 & 200.
There isn't room for the pistons to come out through the bottom, but, if you really want to, throw the cap on the road, push the piston up to the top,and give the rod a good whack with a hammer...
1982 F100 SWB
300 HD, 9.5:1 compression 1.94/1.60 valves
Clifford 270H, Hedman Hedder
2½" duals
NP 435/2.75 geared 9"
1985 F150 HD, 300 HD/needs a NP 435/4.10 geared 8.8
70,000 miles
1980 F100 Custom, 300/Np 435/2.75 geared 9"
60,000 miles
They will go past the ridge dont worry. Just use a deadblow hammer,block of wood,or a brass punch so you dont mark the rod up. I beleive the whole ridge ream deal is so you dont break rings or pistons. Your boring it so none of that matters.
Good luck ANDY
Do NOT use a ridge reamer. Many a good block has been ruined by one. All the old books, manuals, etc. instruct you on how to use one, but DON'T. It almost always tapers the cylinder way out at the top and it won't clean up when you bore it.