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How would one go about converting a 9 inch from stock to posi. i have 3.25 gears and i dont want a locker or a spool i'm not real familiar on rearends but will be soon (thanks To School) any suggestion? a kit? or a site?
i bought my posi from bronco graveyard after i split a factory ford posi in half. $300 and its made better than a factory one i have never had it just spin one wheel and sometimes going around corners even with the additive it will drag a wheel, its locked pretty tight. just make sure you order the ring gear bolts for it becuase they are different.
its pretty much takeing the old carrier out pulling the ring gear off and putting it on the posi carrier installing bearings on the carrier and setting it up in the housing. when you pull the 3rd member out hold the pinion yoke still and move the ring gear, when you are setting up your rear set it with the same play (backlash) by the screw on bearing caps. its fairly straight forward.
Being a 9in you have 2 options. Either go though the rebuild method with a limited slip carrier and put your ring gear on it. Or go to the junkyard, read a few axle tags and find a axle with a limited slip. Pull the third member and install in your axle.
Being a 9in you have 2 options. Either go though the rebuild method with a limited slip carrier and put your ring gear on it. Or go to the junkyard, read a few axle tags and find a axle with a limited slip. Pull the third member and install in your axle.Matt
Make sure the splines match. 31 splined axle shafts were introduced in 1968 as an option, and thru 1979 both 28 & 31 splined axles were used. On the tags prior to 1973, there may or may not be the L on it, which denotes a LS. On 1959 thru 1972's, there was a separate L tag used if the vehicle had LS. Facing the carrier, the ID tag is at 5 o'clock, the L tag at 4 o'clock.
If you are salvage yard shopping, you will also want to make sure you do not end up buying an early WAR case. This will fit into the later housings but does not have a provision to fill the axle with fluid.
Finding a used Traction-loc from a salvage yard can be a decent find, but they were not very tight from the factory and chances are, they will be shot after 30 years of use. Also very easy to find an equa-loc that only had 3 friction plates, and these were a two pin design. Not even worth buying in my opinion. Knowing what to look for is key here.
The aftermarket is full of quality traction control deveces.
Few differences in bearing diameters, so brush up on your homework before you jump in and tear apart your axle. Becomes a real bummer when the axles do not fit, or the bearings are the wrong size.
with the factory trac lock i had that i got from a junk yard that i worked for at the time i had the not very tight issue thats how i found out that i split the carrier becuase i took it out to rebuild it and it fell out of the 3rd member in 2 pieces so i just did what i should have done from the begining and bought a new one.