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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:07 AM
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fuel leak

I have a fuel line leaking going into the head just under my DP..I am guessing there is a O-ring in there..can this O-ring be replaced by unhooking the line and sliding a new O-ring on?? or do I need to get a new fuel line and replace it all??? also I tightened the nut just a little. I am guessing this is not suppose to be tight..am I hurting any thing??? if i can do just the o-ring..any one have the size of it?? thanks a lot guy's
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:13 AM
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I think it needs to be tightened just don overdo-it
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by bdrummonds
I think it needs to be tightened just don overdo-it
thanks Brandon..i did tighten it but it didnt take much of a turn to be tight..its been on high idle for a couple minutes now and hasnt leaked yet..i will keep an eye on it..the scary thing is it leaks on the up pipes right there...
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:20 AM
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They are more of a sleeve than on o-ring and made by Parker.

HERE are some Viton sleeves.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by guzzle92
They are more of a sleeve than on o-ring and made by Parker.

HERE are some Viton sleeves.
thanks a lot guzzle..i will see what i can find..so i can change just the rings then?? do not need a new line??
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:30 AM
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If the line is not corroded or cracked, just the sleeves are needed. The old ones will pretty much crumble off and the new ones need a little lube to push over the flared end of the 1/4" fuel line.
 

Last edited by guzzle92; Nov 9, 2007 at 08:28 AM.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by guzzle92
If the line is not corroded or cracked, just the sleeves are needed. The old ones will pretty much crumble off and the new ones need a little lube to push over the flared end of the 1/4" fuel line.
thanks a lot guzzle..line is clean and painted orange..glad i painted the valley orange..made finding this leak super easy..ill see if i can get a set from IH down the road and fix it be for it gets worse..the nut bottomed out so i guess that is telling me time for new ones..when i put the new onse on..how do i know what is tight??? is it when the nut bottoms out on the rubber??
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 08:30 AM
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You should be able to feel when the nut hits the sleeve. From what I remember, I went about 1/2 to 3/4 turn past that. Just enough to cinch it down but not enough to mash the sleeve.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by guzzle92
You should be able to feel when the nut hits the sleeve. From what I remember, I went about 1/2 to 3/4 turn past that. Just enough to cinch it down but not enough to mash the sleeve.

thanks a lot guzzle..I went for a 30 mile road trip and no leaks so far. I did get new O-rings.. so I think I will change them this weekend just to be safe..I went to a IH dealer and they cross the parts ## with the ones you posted and came up with part# 685158c1 for 1.88 each..I hope there the right ones lol..I will keep you posted...
 

Last edited by ron's power stoke; Nov 9, 2007 at 10:04 AM.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Remember this pic Ron? Shows you what you are dealing with in there.
Later
Mike

 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 10:24 AM
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I think it is just the out side fitting..I tighten that one a bit and it stopped leaking for now..the screen and everything is on the other side right??? please say yes.. that is just one o-ring on that first pic right?? its just in 2 pieces now?? thanks for the pic Mike..
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ron's power stoke
I think it is just the out side fitting..I tighten that one a bit and it stopped leaking for now..the screen and everything is on the other side right??? please say yes.. that is just one o-ring on that first pic right?? its just in 2 pieces now?? thanks for the pic Mike..
Yep, restrictor and screen is in the actual fitting that goes in head. Flare mates to fitting for a seal and the sleeve/gasket is a one piece that came apart on me. Thightening it up likely sealed it via the flare fitting.

EDIT: Keep in mind the head side is NPT and the line side of the fitting is not.
Here's both sides of the restrictor fitting:

 

Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Nov 9, 2007 at 10:59 AM.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 11:04 AM
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good deal..thanks a lot Mike..i will see if i can get this done this weekend..them pix are a big help ..thanks..
 
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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In the photo above, there's a steel-looking fitting (the restrictor) and a brass-looking one (the 1/8" NPT adapter). Are these interchangeable and do the same thing, or are they BOTH needed?

Is there any reason a guy couldn't just run a drill through the restrictor fittings? What's the Circlip retain? Would removing it open up the restrictor?

Pop
 

Last edited by SpringerPop; Nov 9, 2007 at 11:21 AM.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
In the photo above, there's a steel-looking fitting (the restrictor) and a brass-looking one (the 1/8" NPT adapter). Are these interchangable and do the same thing, or are they BOTH needed?

Is there any reason a guy couldn't just run a drill through the restrictor fittings?

What's the Circlip retain?

Pop
Pop, forgot my DIY fuel system thread I kinda let fizzle away eh? Both of those fittings are interchangeable, but the fuel bowl fittings are clearly shorter. This might present a problem with the rigid factory line albeit a small one easily overcome with some bending.

Easier done would be removing the restrictor and going with that or one could even bore out the fitting and screen.

 
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