I am about to buy a 2008 F250 4X4 Super Duty. I am leaning towards the 5.4L since I don’t tow a bunch and I am trying to eke out some sort of fuel economy. The question I have is, is there a “seat of the pants” performance difference between the 3.73 and the 4.10 rear end? I would like to squeeze a little more performance out of the 5.4L and I don’t think I want to pay for the V10 at the pump.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

If possible, you should arrange to drive trucks with like engines and different gearing, but yes there is a noticable difference in "grunt" between 3.73s and 4.10s.

 

I have tried that, but I am looking at regular cab 4X4s and they are few and far between. I have driven regular cab 4X2s with the 5.4 and extended cabs with the V10. I think I have myself talked into the 5.4. I think.

 

A lot of people will tell you you cannot tow with a 5.4L V-8. They will also tell you that you MUST get 4.10 gears.

BS

I don't find either is true. My trailer is a 28 foot Classic Dominator car hauler, weighs about 3500 pounds. I regularly load it with an early 60's full size Pontaic (I have 2). They weight 4500+ pounds. You do the math.

Also, last January and February I moved the two cars and ALL of the household goods from Evansville IN. to Hortonville WI., loading the trailer during the week (while working), driving up Friday evening, unloading Saturday and driving back Sunday (tons of fun during the midwest winter). I know a few loads were close to 6000 pounds. I didn't have any problems with power, acceleration, holding speed or anything. The truck just hunkered down and did it's job, did it well as a matter of fact.

Now, there are no mountain passes between Indiana and Wisconsin, so for you a 4.10 gear would br a better choice if you. I don't have to pull over the Cascades, into the Olympics or the Rockies. I've crawled up Snoqualmie Pass (eastbound) with a 1995 F-150 4x4 with a 302 and 3.55 gearing, towing a U-crawl, so I know what underpowered is.

A V-10 or a Power Stroke would have also pulled easier, but my truck is also my daily driver. I don't need all that power when I am not towing.

 

i have a 08 f 250 reg cab with a full service body 5.4 with 3.73 2x4 and i am getting around 17.7 mpg hwy and about 15.8 in the city

 

Okay, I'm in the RV industry, so I try to push the limits. I've towed a 32' trailer with a Dodge Durango, a 33' with a Chevy 1/2 ton, and now with an Avalanche (sorry, I'm getting to the Ford eventually, loved my '82 Bronco, then got married...). On the Chevy truck, I ended up replacing axle bearings after 110,000 miles. It cost me $500. I could have gotten the 4.10(?) ratio on the higher end truck for another $2000. You do the math.

I'm going with synthetic in the rear end now. I hear that makes a big difference. It's standard on Chevys. Don't know about Fords.

You're smart. Buy the truck for everyday use. Save some money. Most of us don't tow enough to justify the high cost units.

 

I have an '08 Ext. Cab., 5.4, 4x4, and 4.10 rear ($300.00 option). I can't speak for the performance of the 3.73, but I occasionally tow a 6000 lb. travel trailer and I was impressed with performance of my truck. The 'tow/haul' feature made a huge difference also. I know the v-10 would haul it better, but I had no problem with speed on open highway and long grades.

Around town mileage is 12, highway is 13.7 the last I checked, towing the camper I got 8.0. Engine only has 3000 miles, so I hope it gets better, but I doubt that it will.

 

My trailer runs 8500lbs. I haven't seen much difference using the "tow/haul" mode or just driving in "3." The 4.10 does effect fuel economy, that's my biggest reason for going with the lower ratio. I've always gotten about 18mpg on the highway with the 5.3. 9mph towing, and it doesn't seem to matter what size trailer.

I failed to mention why a Chevy owner is here. I'm a sponsor. The TrailerSaver 5th wheel hitch ad is mine. We also make an anti sway trailer hitch (the Hensley Arrow), which allows me to tow with short wheel-based vehciles like the Durango and Avalanche.

 

Thanks to all for the input. It will be my daily driver so the 5.4 is almost mandatory. I tow a large boat (6000-7000 lb.) infrequently and a small boat (800-1000 lb.) often. There are a ton of hills and passes here in Western Washington so I am considering the 4.10 rear end. I have read on other threads that it will not affect my mileage that much. I am willing to give up 1-2 mpg for a little more “oomph”. Hopefully, it is only 1-2 mpg. I am going with the 18” wheels and 33” tires that they offer from the factory, so that should mitigate some of the gear ratio there as well. Are there any options that are “mandatory” items? I am going to go with the XLT with carpet delete. Is the shift-on-the-fly worth it? Do you still have to get out and lock the hubs?

 

Yes, get the Tow Command system.

Shift on the fly (ESOF) is problematic at best and can be unreliable. I use the old "lock the hubs and pull the lever" style of 4 wheel drive (MSOS). If I think I might need 4 wheel drive I lock the front hubs. When I do need it I pull the lever back one notch (no stopping needed despite what the manual says) and off I go.

Well aware of the roads in Western WA. I was born in West Seattle, lived in Seattle, Lacey, Olympia, Lynnwood, Everett, Snohomish and Monroe before leaving in 2004. Finally fed up with high prices, traffic, suburban "mall" sprawl and liberal governments.

Hensley Ron, Tow/Haul mode makes a huge difference. It isn't like the older trucks, where you locked out the O/D. T/H mode doesn't lock the overdrive, it changes the shift points and thetransmission line pressure to help with the heavier loads. It also shifts the transmission down a gear when you are descending a grade, helping to control your speed.

 

Interesting. Shift on the fly was one of the things I was thinking was a must. Has anyone else had any problems with it? I won't get it if it could be a problem. Do you still have to get out and lock the hubs if you have it? Any other recommended or not recommended options?

I really love it here, but the mall sprawl is driving me nuts. I liked Washington before it was "discovered".

 

4.10 axle ratio and Manual hubs , you won't be sorry. It will allways work and you will love the little extra pulling power when you need it. A superduty with manual hubs is what makes it stand alone , NO other truck has them.

 

Redfod, I think you have good luck with your trailer/truck combo because the frontal area of your trailer is fairly small. I tow a 6500 lb travel trailer that is a bit over 10' tall and if I didn't have the 4:10's it would be way bad. I am ok with the 5.4 and 4:10's but more power would be nice. Frontal area is a factor tat needs consideration along with weight. BUT I am pretty happy with my combo...I think it's a good compromise of power and economy. I get from 7 to 10 depending on terain, wind and speed when towing and around 14 to 15 highway when not.

 

I agree, towing 2H GN with LQ (9K+) and though the trailer front has a narrowing nose (5 ft.) it is still almost eight feet wide and ten feet tall. The short bed on the truck helps with the handling on the highway and can still get 75 degress plus angle between truck and trailer. Also, makes a difference when the 1300 lb. butthead starts shifting his weight in the back. Have friends who haul four or more horses and just know they are coordinating their efforts. Hauling a live load is a different experience.

The 4.10 rear gives the extra power needed to overcome the wind.

 

The frontal area of my trailer is small?

It's taller than my truck (at least 7 1/2 feet), 8 1/2 feet wide and as aerodynamic as a brick! It's an enclosed 28 foot car hauler with an optional 6 1/2 foot ceiling (floor to roof).

Where do you guys come up with this stuff?