frustration as usual!
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Elder User
Joined: May 2007
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frustration as usual!
All I want to do is bleed the front brakes. After instructions from some of ya'll and finding the bleeder valve on passenger side I'm thinking 10-15 minutes, right? WRONG!! the flippin bleeder nut is rounded off and I'm just so frustrated mymind can't think of how to do this with it rounded off like this. Should I put a l;ittle PB blaster on there and try some pliers or something? GEEEEZ!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,756
Likes: 38
From: Nampa, ID
I'm partial to WD-40, myself, but it might work. Be careful with it, though. You don't want to get any into the brake fluid and contaminate it.
You might try taking a file to it. Just enough to give you some edges to work with.
You might try taking a file to it. Just enough to give you some edges to work with.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,795
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
need a torch and some fun times.
The other way i've been told to get them off is to weld something on it so you dont crush it with the pliars. Both of mine are frozen solid.
make sure you pick up a new bleader before you pull the old one.
basically you use a map gas, or a cutting torch (dont press the damn button! were not cutting) and heat up the area around the bleeder valve, not the valve itself, dont cherry it up to much but get it really hot.
Then take some room tempature water and slowly poor it on there. Basically the expansion and contraction should break the bleeder loose.
If you have welded something onto it, you should be able to turn it easier.
The guy i know who did that method used a laith and some brains and basically made a socket he could weld on there, and then used channel locks on it so you coudlnt round the nut off. 2 guys on it and it broke loose by hand.
But i suggest heating up the area around it to break the bond.
Propane is not hot enough btw. Thats what i tried with, to no sucssess.
The other way is simply to buy a new calliper. =)
The other way i've been told to get them off is to weld something on it so you dont crush it with the pliars. Both of mine are frozen solid.
make sure you pick up a new bleader before you pull the old one.
basically you use a map gas, or a cutting torch (dont press the damn button! were not cutting) and heat up the area around the bleeder valve, not the valve itself, dont cherry it up to much but get it really hot.
Then take some room tempature water and slowly poor it on there. Basically the expansion and contraction should break the bleeder loose.
If you have welded something onto it, you should be able to turn it easier.
The guy i know who did that method used a laith and some brains and basically made a socket he could weld on there, and then used channel locks on it so you coudlnt round the nut off. 2 guys on it and it broke loose by hand.
But i suggest heating up the area around it to break the bond.
Propane is not hot enough btw. Thats what i tried with, to no sucssess.
The other way is simply to buy a new calliper. =)
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Elder User
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Originally Posted by tjbeggs
personally unless you know there is air in there I would wait until your done with your hay hauling. If that bleeder breaks off your in a heap of trouble.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,653
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Nah. You will lose some, and they will definitely need to be bled, but you won't lose anywhere near all of it.
If it does brake, a reman caliper is only about $50.
If it does brake, a reman caliper is only about $50.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
it will come out if you let it gravity bleed for a long time or have someone help by pushing the pedal down then tightening the bleeder then letting the pedal up, loosen the bleeder and start over again pushing the pedal down..... A flush is a good thing to go just make sure you have an entire day and parts stores are open or another vehicle to drive if things go south.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Oh, another thing. O'reilly carries a little gadget called a speed bleeder. Install them in place of all the bleed screws and it makes bleeding out the whole truck about a 20 minute job.
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Elder User
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Before I realized I couldn't get the bleeder valva broke loose I went ahead and filled the MC to almost max level. It was only about halfway. So when take out the old bleeder valve to install a new one the brake fluid will just ooze out until I screw in the new one, right? I assume it won't hurt anything to ooze out all over the caliper?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Whitewright, Tx
Originally Posted by tndiesel
Before I realized I couldn't get the bleeder valva broke loose I went ahead and filled the MC to almost max level. It was only about halfway. So when take out the old bleeder valve to install a new one the brake fluid will just ooze out until I screw in the new one, right? I assume it won't hurt anything to ooze out all over the caliper?
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Originally Posted by MLCinNCTX
You will be fine with the above. What you should have done, before filling the master cylinder, was use something like a turkey baster to empty the old fluid then fill.
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From: Whitewright, Tx
Originally Posted by tndiesel
Well then everything is normal, because I always seem to do the wrong thing before doing the right thing.
Get some new bleeders (if one is rounded the others are likely in bad shape) and a pair of vice grips and get to it. If you want to wait until you return from your hay trip just use the reference baster and get the fluid level correct.
Remember you never learn when it is easy, but you never forget the problems.
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Originally Posted by MLCinNCTX
I won't say the way you did it is wrong, it is just that you can get the clean/new fluid through the system quicker when you start with the master cylinder full of clean fluid.
Get some new bleeders (if one is rounded the others are likely in bad shape) and a pair of vice grips and get to it. If you want to wait until you return from your hay trip just use the reference baster and get the fluid level correct.
Remember you never learn when it is easy, but you never forget the problems.
Get some new bleeders (if one is rounded the others are likely in bad shape) and a pair of vice grips and get to it. If you want to wait until you return from your hay trip just use the reference baster and get the fluid level correct.
Remember you never learn when it is easy, but you never forget the problems.