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Hey fellas, I've got an 06 f150 with the 5.4 and 73000 on it.I had the CEL come on.I took to a shop to get the codes read and they said it neede a new fuel filter and plugs.Do the 06's have the same probs as the earlier year with plug removal?I'm thinking about changing them myself and would consider myself adequate with the wrenches.Any tips or links to try to sway me one way or the other.
They wouldn't have happened to print out those codes?
...As far as wanting to change the plugs out, You may want to pay close attention to the Spark Plug change Threads on here. If you need help to gather up those threads, Let me know!
Supposedly, the 2006's had anti seize put on the shank to keep them from building up the carbon, but I would not count on it. This video is a must watch for the DIYer. Click on the Register Now, then on the tab that says Videos. It is numer 26.
mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech26_250k.wmv
The fuel filter shouldhave been changed no later than 30,000 miles, I change mine every 15,000.
Unless u are very very handy with the wrenches u would be well advised to take it to the dealer and have them do it will cost around $300 is money well spent if u have to pull a head to get a plug out. IMO
The dealer will charge you at least $300 for the plug change, and that is only if they don't break a plug, then they charge you for their screw up.
Like Jim said, change the fuel filter often!
I don't trust the dealer to do my plug change, mostly b/c every truck they do, they break a plug and charge you an arm and a leg for it.
I'd rather do it myself and follow the TSB closely while taking my time.
The dealer will charge you at least $300 for the plug change, and that is only if they don't break a plug, then they charge you for their screw up.
Like Jim said, change the fuel filter often!
I don't trust the dealer to do my plug change, mostly b/c every truck they do, they break a plug and charge you an arm and a leg for it.
I'd rather do it myself and follow the TSB closely while taking my time.
It's a racket, there is no incentive to take it slow and follow the TCB. They break one off, then they can charge you extra for removing it. I have made my service guy say that if they break one, it's on them. You need to get that in writing before they start on it, if you let them do it.
Wow...GREAT video!
However, the engineers that designed that Cylinder Head should be shot!
*And they also don't mention how the minute falling particles of carbon falling off the ground shield into the head can cause damage just like the porcelain would!
*And they also don't mention how the minute falling particles of carbon falling off the ground shield into the head can cause damage just like the porcelain would!
That is why it is suggested to turn the engine over with the plugs out, to blow any particles out.
Can anyone that's done that clarify if this works?
I've heard on guy rigged something up to his vaccum and put it down the spark plug hole to get things out.
The broke plugs are pretty easy to get out you just need a 3/8 bottoming tap welded to allthread, a socket that just fits the opening to the plugs and a nut for the allthread. thread the tap into the tip of the plug after you chip some of the porclin out. put the socket over the allthread to keep it steady and tighting the nut and the tip of the plug pulls right out.
The carbon that falls off the ground shield isn't a problem. If you are using the right penetrating oil the carbon will be softened up. The cranking of the engine is to get the excess penetrating oil out so you don't hydro lock the engine.
The broke plugs are pretty easy to get out you just need a 3/8 bottoming tap welded to allthread, a socket that just fits the opening to the plugs and a nut for the allthread. thread the tap into the tip of the plug after you chip some of the porclin out. put the socket over the allthread to keep it steady and tighting the nut and the tip of the plug pulls right out.
I don't quite think I'm following you.....
Is there some way this could be drawn up, or a different explanation?
Supposedly, the 2006's had anti seize put on the shank to keep them from building up the carbon, but I would not count on it. This video is a must watch for the DIYer. Click on the Register Now, then on the tab that says Videos. It is numer 26.
mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech26_250k.wmv
The fuel filter shouldhave been changed no later than 30,000 miles, I change mine every 15,000.
It sure seems fairly cut and dried on the procedure but it's always easier when done for display.
After seeing that I now understand why they are seizing in the cylinders and breaking off. I had no idea the plugs were designed with that long sleeve on them. Seems like a pretty stupid design. Too bad there isn't a way to clean the hole before reinserting the new plug.
Thanks everybody,I checked out some of the other threads.I decided to go ahead and let somebody else do it this time since I don't know if they've ever been changed.I think I'll just start doing them myself every 20000 or so.