Advice 240 or 300
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Advice 240 or 300
I got a 1965 f-100 with 60000 original miles. Im debating should i go with getting another 240 six sylinder or up grade to a 300 six and if i did that would my 4 speed tranny work. I dont want to upgrade to electronic ignition. Thanks Jeff
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Do you want more power? The 300 is the way to go.
Some of the electronic ignitions don't have much of a computer, certainly not an engine computer like my '85 or late model stuff. I think the Duraspark II is mentioned here regularly. Not sure of the details.
But, more power, get the 300. Note you are going to be pulling your existing gears much easier and you may want to check your axle ratio to see if you can pull a taller gear with the 300 so that $3.60 stuff doesn't run out so fast.
Some of the electronic ignitions don't have much of a computer, certainly not an engine computer like my '85 or late model stuff. I think the Duraspark II is mentioned here regularly. Not sure of the details.
But, more power, get the 300. Note you are going to be pulling your existing gears much easier and you may want to check your axle ratio to see if you can pull a taller gear with the 300 so that $3.60 stuff doesn't run out so fast.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Jeff, The 240/300 is the same on the outside. The 300 has a longer stroke over the 240. As long as you look below the fuel injected year models it should be an exact replacement fit.
Pertronix makes an excellent inexpensive electronic ign. used by many folk here.
Where are you located, I have an extra 240.
John
Pertronix makes an excellent inexpensive electronic ign. used by many folk here.
Where are you located, I have an extra 240.
John
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From: Montana
FWIW- i just got done installing an electronic distributor from a 84 ,300 six in my 66 300 six. it was a direct bolt in. i ran one 12 guage wire from the pos. side of the solonoid over to the box that i mounted on the fender well . this provided the juice to the box. one of the lines was fused with a 20 amp inline fuse and the other was a direct lead. the 12 guage wire suppies juice for both leads. very simple. the rest was a direct plugin. I also installed high performance wires and a 50k coil at the same time. installed a 2 1/4 exhaust system.i am now getting 22 mpg in my 4 WD. it runs 100 percent better than it did before the retro. the dist and box came from a donor so the whole conversion cost about a 100 bucks. Dutch
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Ok my next question is if i put the 300 six in could i just take out the distributer in the 240 six and put it in the 300 then that would bypass the electrical. I do like the idea about going with electric ignition , But i just dont know wireing. By the way i live in Olympia. What kind of shape is the 240 in and where are you located. Thanks And god bless everyome. Jeff
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From: KCMO
Originally Posted by Flyn66dtmn
FWIW- i just got done installing an electronic distributor from a 84 ,300 six in my 66 300 six. it was a direct bolt in. i ran one 12 guage wire from the pos. side of the solonoid over to the box that i mounted on the fender well . this provided the juice to the box. one of the lines was fused with a 20 amp inline fuse and the other was a direct lead. the 12 guage wire suppies juice for both leads. very simple. the rest was a direct plugin. I also installed high performance wires and a 50k coil at the same time. installed a 2 1/4 exhaust system.i am now getting 22 mpg in my 4 WD. it runs 100 percent better than it did before the retro. the dist and box came from a donor so the whole conversion cost about a 100 bucks. Dutch
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From: Montana
I had originally thought that it would be real tough but i ran into a feller that had already done it and it was extremely simple when i looked at it. you dont have to run any wires into the cab.there is a pigtail that connects the dist to the electronic box and it's a no brainer. there are two other wires that come off the elec. box that are both lead wires.one is fused and the other one isnt. both can be run on the same lead as i stated in my previous thread. I'm at work now but will do a color rundown and post that.from the lgwork that i did i think that all are the same up to 1986. then there was a design change.( i think) LOL. Dutch
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From: East Central Florida
Jeff,
I agree with these guys 240 & 300 are virtually the same exterior + an easy upgrade. Duraspark Blue stripe breakerless ignition is way ahead of point's & condenser Ignition form all practical aspects. I don't own anything that uses points
& cond. Even my gasoline power tools are all at least CDI.
For one No Moving parts, no adjustments to make other than Initial timing, twice the plug life, 3 times with Platnum tips in right heat range,
better MPG, easier starts, better performance, why not?And like Flyn66dtmn Says, it's almost a Plug & Play upgrade.
Also 86 & up 300 CID (aka 4.9L) I-6 with EFI use a steel header that provides split exhaust & scavanging capability,
it won't crack ever & is lighter. You do not need EFI but upgraded exhaust system also makes a huge performance
difference all the way around too.
FBp
I agree with these guys 240 & 300 are virtually the same exterior + an easy upgrade. Duraspark Blue stripe breakerless ignition is way ahead of point's & condenser Ignition form all practical aspects. I don't own anything that uses points
& cond. Even my gasoline power tools are all at least CDI.
For one No Moving parts, no adjustments to make other than Initial timing, twice the plug life, 3 times with Platnum tips in right heat range,
better MPG, easier starts, better performance, why not?And like Flyn66dtmn Says, it's almost a Plug & Play upgrade.
Also 86 & up 300 CID (aka 4.9L) I-6 with EFI use a steel header that provides split exhaust & scavanging capability,
it won't crack ever & is lighter. You do not need EFI but upgraded exhaust system also makes a huge performance
difference all the way around too.
FBp
Last edited by FordBoypete; Nov 8, 2007 at 03:36 PM.
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From: East Central Florida
No under dash work at all!
You can install it from under the hood. Just get a Distrib'tr, Coil, a salvage yard Engine Ignition Harness for a 300 (4.9L) & new ECM/Ign Module/ Brain from a reputable supplier like Motorcraft, or NAPA/Echlin, etc. Avoid those Nat'l Discount Franchise Stores with own brand of electronics. They may sell for less but often cost a lot more in the final analysis, don't ask how I know.
Follow Flyn66dtmn's post quoted below. . . .
You want to use Magnetic Supression Wires, and at least single tip Platnum type plugs to limit electrode errosion from the higher arcing temp of high voltage coil application.
Set Plugs at gap reccomended for year & system you get. Also timing should remain at Initial lead for your engine. It does NOT need to be that of donor engine, which may have a different cam profile, fuel induction (a bigger CFM Carb, different Jetting etc) or other tuning variations & spec's that do not apply to your engine.
FBp
You can install it from under the hood. Just get a Distrib'tr, Coil, a salvage yard Engine Ignition Harness for a 300 (4.9L) & new ECM/Ign Module/ Brain from a reputable supplier like Motorcraft, or NAPA/Echlin, etc. Avoid those Nat'l Discount Franchise Stores with own brand of electronics. They may sell for less but often cost a lot more in the final analysis, don't ask how I know.
Follow Flyn66dtmn's post quoted below. . . .
Originally Posted by Flyn66dtmn
FWIW- i just got done installing an electronic distributor from a 84 ,300 six in my 66 300 six. it was a direct bolt in. i ran one 12 guage wire from the pos. side of the solenoid over to the box that i mounted on the fender well . this provided the juice to the box. one of the lines was fused with a 20 amp inline fuse and the other was a direct lead. the 12 guage wire suppies juice for both leads. very simple. the rest was a direct plugin. I also installed high performance wires and a 50k coil at the same time. it runs 100 percent better than it did before the retro. the dist and box came from a donor so the whole conversion cost about a 100 bucks. Dutch
Set Plugs at gap reccomended for year & system you get. Also timing should remain at Initial lead for your engine. It does NOT need to be that of donor engine, which may have a different cam profile, fuel induction (a bigger CFM Carb, different Jetting etc) or other tuning variations & spec's that do not apply to your engine.
FBp
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confused
Are you saying i need to install the whole wireing harness is so is that with the Duraspark distributer or with the original electronic out of the 81 im sorry if i sound stupid im just totaly confused. Thanks for all your all help. Jeff