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Radius arm bushing

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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 01:51 PM
  #1  
echriste's Avatar
echriste
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Radius arm bushing

This weekend, my dad and I replaced one bushing on my '87 F-150. We were planning on doing both, but time constraints led to only one (the one that was actually cracked) being done.

I read up on the 3 methods to do it, and decided to try the easiest sounding first. We unbolted the nut by the bushing, blocked the front tire and tried backing up to get the arm free. It came except for the last 1/8" when the block started sliding.

Time for plan B. We tried unbolting the radius arm from the axel. The bottom bolt was so rusted on that the 3/4" impact wrench wouldn't budge it so we didn't even try to top one.
We finally resorted to drilling the rivets out. Just center-punched them and did 4 passes from about 3/32" to 7/16" I don't know about all the horror stories about "hardened rivets" and such. Those things drilled pretty easily.

I figured I'd write up my experiences for any other sucker that has to change those things. The passenger's side one is slated to be done in 2 weeks.

Eric
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 03:50 PM
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shooter05
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Thanks for the update on how it worked for ya! How long did it take for the one side? I need to do mine.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 04:34 PM
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echriste
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Originally Posted by shooter05
Thanks for the update on how it worked for ya! How long did it take for the one side? I need to do mine.
Well, it took about 3 hours with all the messing around, including trying to get more clearance by cutting the rubber bushing out. I expect the other side will take around an hour (conservatively) now that we know what we're doing. It also helps a lot to take the wheel off.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 04:40 PM
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msb71
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Best way is to air chisel the rivets out and rebolt with grade 8 bolts , makes for an easier time the next time.
Mike
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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echriste
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Drilling them out didn't go badly either. You also forgot the "and replace with poly bushings so you never have to do it again"
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:04 PM
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cleeE150
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did mine couple years ago on van, cut bolts on bracket to frame, pulled off bracket,nut bushings ect.replaced with new bolts, worked great, not hard to do...
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:39 PM
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17fordguy
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What Grade Bolts Should Be Used
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:42 PM
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shooter05
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Originally Posted by msb71
Best way is to air chisel the rivets out and rebolt with grade 8 bolts , makes for an easier time the next time.
Mike
He ahhhh said that
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:55 PM
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oh i looked over it
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 11:19 PM
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droppedf100
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I unbolted the shock and radius arm and used a come-along hooked to a tree to pull the radius arm out of the bracket. It still sucked but it was better then removing the bracket from the frame. And as for the bolt that goes through the I-beam and radius arm, those things never come out without a fight. I have installed drop ibeams on about 5 or 6 trucks and they are the worst.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 17fordguy
What Grade Bolts Should Be Used
use grade 8.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 11:42 AM
  #12  
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alz
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Not sure about others, but my passenger side had bolts in it. They were original. The driver side was still rivoted though.
 
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