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i just got the turbonetics tow master ball bearing turbo i was wondering how this compared to the ats bb and the h2e hypermax turbo, also if anyone was running one an what i can expect after it is installed for turbo spool and power
Is it the ball bearing one? How much did you pay for it and where did you get it? I am asking this because alot of "vendors" are selling what they call a "Ball Bearing turbo" that is not...
If its the Ball Bearing version, its a great turbo, on par if not better then the 38r... I just sent my standard TN back to get upgraded with the ball bearing center section, but loved it before. I will also be playing with a 1.15 exhaust housing...
The H2e is a bit differant anamal, you have to swap to a differant mounting kit but it is capable of 550-600hp with supporting mods...
its a ceramic ball bearing from black widow diesel with the 1.00a/r housing ect. 1750 (on sale) plus 125 high flow outlet, 18 for shipping. with the stageII single and big oil i should be looking at something like 450-475hp at wheels right? or am i dreaming
its a ceramic ball bearing from black widow diesel with the 1.00a/r housing ect. 1750 (on sale) plus 125 high flow outlet, 18 for shipping. with the stageII single and big oil i should be looking at something like 450-475hp at wheels right? or am i dreaming
I don't think you'd get 450-475, but 400+ pretty easy though....
its a ceramic ball bearing from black widow diesel with the 1.00a/r housing ect. 1750 (on sale) plus 125 high flow outlet, 18 for shipping. with the stageII single and big oil i should be looking at something like 450-475hp at wheels right? or am i dreaming
Good deal! Just have to make sure, some other vendors are trying to pass the older version as the BB unit!
Stage 2's and big oil will get you about 430 tops... Just not enough fuel there. Throw a little drugs at it and you should make about 450...
so would hybrids be better? i still not sure on which ones i'll be getting would i need head studs and valve springs going to hybrids versus stage II, i don't want to use any drugs might think about water but no nitrous or propane not saying anything is wrong with it but its not allowed in truck pulls
Last edited by justblowin'smoke; Nov 6, 2007 at 08:26 PM.
i was toying with that idea too but was worried about having to but valve springs in don't really want to do that, the head studs are in the plans
i don't have big oil yet but planning on it
all this would put me past the 500rwhp won't it? i don't need vent holes in the block and with only 113,000 on the ticker i'm not pulling the engine to put rods in it
to do valve springs u need a compressor and someway to hold the valves in place while changing the springs and putting the keepers back in and all, don't own any of that
all this would put me past the 500rwhp won't it? i don't need vent holes in the block and with only 113,000 on the ticker i'm not pulling the engine to put rods in it
to do valve springs u need a compressor and someway to hold the valves in place while changing the springs and putting the keepers back in and all, don't own any of that
Going to B codes could put you over 500, but that can be ajusted with fuel. If your going with oil then yes skip the hybrids.
You should be looking at valve springs at 40 or so #'s of boost anyway... You can get the comp 910 valve springs for less then 100 bucks... I sent my heads out and for $500 I got new valves, valve grind, keepers, springs and all..
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.