When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Two days ago, I noticed a stall in the movement of my window up and down, then yesterday it stopped moving all together. I assumed its a power problem and I've figured out that I'm getting power to the motor but my window (driver's) is stuck in the full down position and its colder than a witches $#@ out there. The other windows work.
First of all, is the motor the definite problem? If so, can I remove the motor without screwing up the regulator assembly. It appears that three bolts hold the motor to the regulator. I started unscrewing these three bolts but they seem very tight. Is it safe to remove them in order to get the motor off?
Secondly, I haven't looked at the motors for the other windows but can anyone tell me whether I can switch the motors today simply in order to get the window back up until I can get a replacement motor?
Lastly, can I manually move the window to the up position?
Hey all. I have the same problem as the original poster, but mine is the passenger front window on a 2002 F350 Crew Cab. I took off the panel, shot the wires and have power going down to the motor. The motor clicks both in the down and up position of the switch. I also see the motor diagram and was wondering, that if I DO take the bolts holding the motor in place, AND duct tape the window in the full up position, how would one disconnect the motor from the regulator? Is there an arm or some other way it connects, and I would also guess that once you take the motor off, you the glass would be free to "freefall" if the tape were to come loose? Any suggestions? Thanks, Dave
well you can loosen the motor and than lift the window up, after that just put the motor back in. and it would hold it up. and they come out very easy, and go in easy, 20 min job, 3 screws and a plug just what Neal posted up.
good luck guys...
Once you get the bolts loose, how do you "decouple" or disconnect the motor assembly from the window regulator? Is it not hard bolted together? Just trying to figure it out before I pull the motor and not figure out how to disconnect it from the rest of the assembly..
one of the arms if my memory is not playing tricks on me is driven by that motor, so its no big deal to remove it, no puling snaping or fighting , just take it out kinda deal...
look at it with panel off and you will see.....
i Beer job as that say LOL
Well I read, and pulled and tugged....the motor won't budge. I pulled the door panel and there are 4 silver bolt heads in holes that have a larger hole sort of elongated that when you loosen the bolts the whole assembly should slide up and to the left toward the larger hole so the bolts will go through the holes while still partially screwed into the motor. Like a previous poster mentioned, it seems like the bolts are really tight and are snug to remove like they are holding the weight of the motor and regulator assembly. I have the window glass taped up so at least it would not fall. But for the life of me I can not get the motor to budge with the screws loose and near the point of falling out......any more suggestions....no rush I gave up for the night and will hopefully get a fresh start before it gets up to 120 (or at least 95) tomorrow. Thanks, Dave
I just replaced my window motor this past weekend, it has 4 10mm bolts that holds the motor in,plus 2 10mm taps on the back part of the door. When you take all these out,the you need to let the window slide down,and it has 2 8mm taps that hold it in. Make sure you put tape or something on the window to keep it from sliding all the way down. Then all you have to do is unplug the motor and wiggle the window regulator out through the larger hole in the door. If you have to replace the motor, Advance was the cheapest for me. 54.00 thats tax but you have a 20.00 core charge. When you take the motor off, put a screwdriver in the regulator,or it will snap you......Make sure you do this!!!!
What are the "taps" you are referring to? I mostly removed the 4 motor screws but where were the "taps" you mentioned? If they are on the inside of the door, how did you get to them? Also I suspect it is just the motor insted of the regulator as the window was going up and down just fine, but since I haven't driven it lately I figured it was just "stuck" but after slamming and squeezing the glass from the inside and outside with my palms while the wifie was working the switch, the only thing I heard and felt was the motor clicking.....Any pics would help out tremendously...Thanks, Dave
Well, I must take my hat off to Kwik...Again!! I researched a thread from years back and me mentioned silicone spray applied to the window seal and glass to prevent it from sticking. Well that was my problem all along!! The first major hurdle to overcome was getting the motor assembly out. I tried slamming the door, activating the switch rapidly and putting a palm on the outside and inside of the window to "unstick" it from the seal...nothing worked. I finally was able to look at a motor on the Autozone websight. It looked like it had 3 little screws in a triangle pattern. (SEE ALSO POST NUMBER 2 from last november...YOU WERE RIGHT PETE, NEAL WAS RIGHT ON WITH THAT...It just looked different cause it was the driver's side and mine was the passenger side) I went out and looked for that pattern and there it was..(see pic). I unscrewed them and the motor fell right out. I plugged it back in and it worked like a new one. Well I then removed the tape up and over the window frame....jiggled the glass and it moved up and down like a charm. Well it was simply stuck to the seal. I put it all back together (1 and half minute job) not including the panel...and it worked like it should. Look a the picture and you will see the 4 silver screws I tried to take loose that didn't help, and then you will see the 3 gold colored screws that were the trick to getting the motor assembly out....Silicone spray on the seals and glass keeps it from sticking in the 120* sun of South Carolina..Thanks Kwik again for your several year old suggestion that is still great today!!!! and THANKS EVERYONE ELSE who convinced me how easy it was once I studied it for a bit.....Dave
Last edited by DaveWilliams; Jun 27, 2008 at 04:42 PM.
Reason: Added text,
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.