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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 04:49 PM
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hey yall i got money and 2 months i cant drive so its time to start workin. i just got my 90 f150 efi and i wanna get some more power from that i6. i really know nothin about it and i have the ability to drop a 400 in but i really cant find aftermarket parts for it so think ill stick with the 300. so give me some ideas

Bruno
 
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 06:28 PM
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better chip, maybe a cam, headers, exhaust, k&n air intake system, stuff like that will help ya out

 
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 06:57 PM
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yeah thanks i was considering a chip and im lookin at the Crane Blueracer 270 cam(what do yall think) and i have the k&N already comeon help me out a little. o and by the way im not one of those guys that throws money to people and says do it(i hate that but its how im gettin money to work on mine) im doin all the work so the like things will be usefull to thanks
 
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 07:12 PM
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Crazy idea, its been done before, but it takes a lot of time and effort.....TUROBCHARGING!!!! That would be about the biggest power add-on you can put on a 300. If you feel like doing a complete rebuild of the motor, you can drop in new flattop pistons, maybe do some head porting, valve swap. On the cheaper end, the before mentioned Bluracer w/ new lifters, MSD6A ignition or similar, and definatly do some exhaust work. If your rearend doesnt already have em, swap in at least some 3.73's,maybe even 4.10's.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 11:09 PM
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optikal illushun
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try a good tune up (8.8mm plug wires, motor craft pulgs, all that good stuff) on the ehxuast port the EFI manifolds, run 2,5" pipe to a good muffler (flowmaster is excelltent) and run 2.5" single out. next is to make a homemade ram air off the stock air box (im currently working on this myself) then get an MSD 6a ignition, coil, wiring harness as for cam i am going to do this eventually also but start with an upgrader fuel system (new #19 injectors and fuel pressure regulator). after that all is done u should have a nice motor and it wont be unrealible......(300-i6 and unrealible dont go 2gether in the same sentence)
 
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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 07:01 PM
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4.10s are a little large if the tires are stock. 3.73s or lower.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

That's it for mods now, saving for a Stang. Check out my Gallery for a look-see.

 
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 10:34 AM
  #7  
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4.10s are fine with stock tires. My dad bought his 1981 ford ( which is now mine) from the factory with 4.10 gears and a granny 4spd. (it was the only gear ratio available from the factory with limited slip front and rear.) It also had the 300 the he left stock untell i got it. When it came to hauling wood, we basicaly never needed a tractor, the old truck pulled it from the ground stump and all. In the end 4.10s are great because i have it now with 33's and a build 300
 
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 06:52 PM
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heck, pullin stumps is what the straight six is all about!


I'm interested in this cold air induction since i'll be getting a K&n filter instead of the whole k&n charger deal cuz its a RIP OFF!

I know this may sound really stupid, and its sort of a whack idea, but could you get a tiny electric fan and have it feed your intake? I know this isn't going to pressurize the air going in, but lets say you put the fan in a tube that went somewhere away from the engine, making the air nice and cold?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 07:02 PM
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MPH X GEAR RATIO X 336 / TIRE SIZE

65 X 4.10 x 336 / 28.5 (235/75/15 stock F-150 tires) = 3141 RPM in a 1:1 gear ratio, WAY to high for normal highway travel. You need that number around 2300. Our engines were not designed to travel at those high of speeds, the lightnings came with 4.10s but have OD. Even in OD they are a little high. Most of us drive 70-75 on the highway.....

75 X 4.10 X 336 / 28.5 = 3625 RPM on a 1:1 gear. That is very very high.

65 X 3.73 X 336 / 28.5 = 2858 RPM on a 1:1, better but not great.

65 X 4.10 X 336 / 32.8 (33")= 2730 RPM on a 1:1, ok but not great for the long hauls. He probably has OD, the ODs on these trucks, are around say .80 (the mazda 5 speed is .80 and the auto is close to it I think), so in the neighborhood of 2184 RPM at 65, perfect! Numbers and math don't lie my friend. Your engine was not designed to run at 3K+ for hours. You will wear that engine out in no time if you're on the highway often enough.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

That's it for mods now, saving for a Stang. Check out my Gallery for a look-see.

 
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Old Sep 9, 2002 | 07:02 AM
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>I know this may sound really stupid, and its sort of a whack
>idea, but could you get a tiny electric fan and have it feed
>your intake? I know this isn't going to pressurize the air
>going in, but lets say you put the fan in a tube that went
>somewhere away from the engine, making the air nice and
>cold?

Not sure you can get a fan with enough air flow, nor would it cool the air. But one thing fun to try is get a big cooler (as big as will fit under the hood), route the air intake through it and fill it half way or so with ice. Sure the ice will melt, but you ought to get some nice cold air for 30 minutes to an hour--enough time to have a little fun.

INLINE SIX POWER! '95 F150 XL
300 Cubic Inches of Low RPM Truck Torque! And twin-I-beams too!
"Drive a stick young man! There'll be time for automatics when you're old and unable."

See my gallery, just created 9-02.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2002 | 02:10 PM
  #11  
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tallpaul always has some kinda off the wall ideas. actually u could get some dry ice and put it in a canister going into the intake...or possibly routing cooling lines around the intake maifold like a raditor...or u could get a box fan from ur house and attach it to the hood and cut a hole out on top...
 
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Old Sep 9, 2002 | 03:10 PM
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I think we have a bit more figuring to do. Need holes in the bottom of the cooler for drainage or we'll get a slug of water in the engine (not too good for connecting rods ). Dry ice sounds like a better idea. Would the CO2 off gassing help or hinder combustion? Maybe better to pack the dry ice around the intake tubes instead of having in inside the intake.

Tall ("off-the-wall" :-X12 ) Paul
 
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Old Sep 9, 2002 | 05:35 PM
  #13  
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optikal illushun
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i dont think the c02 would help combustion, make the intake tupbes going to the intake out of a good insulator to keep the cold in and then we might be talking bout a reality....unless the engine temp melts the dry ice?...we could always run the engine up in alaska where its normally cold and that would solve the cold air intake
 
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Old Sep 10, 2002 | 08:00 AM
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Someone on this site a couple years ago was putting this silver reflective tape on their intake tubes. Something they got at Home Depo or similar store. I think I should try that anyway. I think the dry ice thing would have to be where the air first comes in so it is denser as it enters the ducting. My intake is in a cavity behind the headlight. Might not be too hard to rig up some hardware cloth (wire screening with large mesh) into a basket that dry ice could be dropped into periodically. As for cold climate performance, it would be interesting to compare power between those 10 degree January days (in Michigan anyway) and those 90 degree August days. Unfortunately, there is too much time lag between the two. Hey, what if you had one of the original Econoline vans or forward control pickups with the full doghouse? You could pull the doghouse and aircleaner box and hose starting fluid into the carb when you want some extra go. Only cost would be a 5 dollar can of starting fluid. (WARNING: don't try this at home, starting fluid is highly flamable and you could end up inside a 60 mph flaming sterno can )
 
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Old Sep 10, 2002 | 09:18 AM
  #15  
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Hey
I have seen in a offroad race mag. of a cold box for the fuel line.
The fuel line coiles around in the cooler and all ya need is Ice.
I was thinking about usint the Ac to replace the ice part. Humm wonder if putting a coil from the AC in the intack would work better then thsi fan Idea. (Yes this is wild thinking here)
Mix this with your cold box for the intack and who know?



Think out of the box and live.
 
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