'92 F-350 E-brake problem
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'92 F-350 E-brake problem
I'm back again.... This time, I'm tracking an e-brake problem.
Symptoms: The E-brake doesn't hold until it's pushed almost to the floor. When I release it, it goes most of the way up, but I have to manually pull it the last inch or two. If I don't manually pull it up, the brake light stays on. There is slack in the e-brake cable at this point.
I've read all I could here, and it appears it may be the rear shoes need tightening. I did the self tightening thing by hitting the brakes in reverse. After that, the brake pedal felt better, but the e-brake still was the same. Since this is a '92, there doesn't appear to be a sepatate e-brake tightener - looks like it's tied in with the tightness of the rear shoes - ???????
The brake pedal never felt bad at any time - even before tightening in reverse.
Don't want to pull the dual rears, unless that's the most likely problem.
Any thoughts?
Symptoms: The E-brake doesn't hold until it's pushed almost to the floor. When I release it, it goes most of the way up, but I have to manually pull it the last inch or two. If I don't manually pull it up, the brake light stays on. There is slack in the e-brake cable at this point.
I've read all I could here, and it appears it may be the rear shoes need tightening. I did the self tightening thing by hitting the brakes in reverse. After that, the brake pedal felt better, but the e-brake still was the same. Since this is a '92, there doesn't appear to be a sepatate e-brake tightener - looks like it's tied in with the tightness of the rear shoes - ???????
The brake pedal never felt bad at any time - even before tightening in reverse.
Don't want to pull the dual rears, unless that's the most likely problem.
Any thoughts?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 13
From: New Jersey
First check the point that MHG suggested, he's right on track.
Personally, I'd pull the rears apart anyway and lube the adjusters, spinners, pivots and everything else that's not a brake shoe to make sure everything is ready for years of service.
With all the dust, dirt, debris and moisture that collects in drum brakes leaving them alone is going to make more work in the future.
Personally, I'd pull the rears apart anyway and lube the adjusters, spinners, pivots and everything else that's not a brake shoe to make sure everything is ready for years of service.
With all the dust, dirt, debris and moisture that collects in drum brakes leaving them alone is going to make more work in the future.
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mhg, Thanks for the reply. Although all the trucks I've owned before had an adjustment right where you described, on the '92, there is no such adjustment. I didn't believe it myself until I crawled under there and read past posts here about it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
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From: New Jersey
If there's no adjustment, that means the cables were replaced with generic replacements at some point, and the adjustment assembly in between was discarded (probably due to rust, age).
As you just found out brake cables stretch over time. Just a little, but it's enough to reduce the leverage the e-brake pedal has to apply on the rear brake shoes.
The adjustment mechanism is just a bracket, a bar, and a heavy duty spring and you'll find such critters on any full size truck of any brand. It doesn't have to be a Ford unit depending what you can find easier. My F350 crewcab has a Dodge piece I got out of the junkyard - it was the only shiny thing on the truck - the rest of the truck was rusted through.
I do enjoy when people junk things with new parts installed
As you just found out brake cables stretch over time. Just a little, but it's enough to reduce the leverage the e-brake pedal has to apply on the rear brake shoes.
The adjustment mechanism is just a bracket, a bar, and a heavy duty spring and you'll find such critters on any full size truck of any brand. It doesn't have to be a Ford unit depending what you can find easier. My F350 crewcab has a Dodge piece I got out of the junkyard - it was the only shiny thing on the truck - the rest of the truck was rusted through.
I do enjoy when people junk things with new parts installed
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 110
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From: Fair Oaks, Ca
They change the linkage and the pedal assy so there is no adjustment. Ford tried to accomplish adjusting with a ratchet mechanism in the pedal assy.
There is a recall on this Item.....
Replacement of the pedal mech may be your only solution.....
Do you think the cables are sliding freely inside the sheath after the Y ?
If it's not the brake or brakes will hang.....not good.
Info on recall
I hate this mechanism!!!!!! but I live with it.
94 f250
There is also a TSB regarding the routing of the parking brake lines at the rear, near the backing plates. That would have nothing to do with your problem.
Jim
There is a recall on this Item.....
Replacement of the pedal mech may be your only solution.....
Do you think the cables are sliding freely inside the sheath after the Y ?
If it's not the brake or brakes will hang.....not good.
Info on recall
I hate this mechanism!!!!!! but I live with it.
94 f250
There is also a TSB regarding the routing of the parking brake lines at the rear, near the backing plates. That would have nothing to do with your problem.
Jim
Last edited by bigfootford; Nov 3, 2007 at 12:22 PM.
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I've fooled with it a bit. Noticed one bleeder screw is broken off. E-brakes are not releasing, especially from the right rear. Gonna have to go in............ Getting ready to post about ABS light - related?
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Fair Oaks, Ca
beagledog, when you get the drum off that right side check to make sure that the parking brake cable lug is properly connected to the arm that moves the brakes. I've found a couple of them cocked causing the brakes to drag and completely wear them out. It's very easy to get them cocked.
The only solution to the bleeder screw is to replace the cyl. If you think you don't have air in the line maybe you can get away just leaving it for now. Although with the age of the truck your probably close to needing to replace both cyls anyway. Maybe new shoes too.
ABS Light.....bummer.....
Jim
The only solution to the bleeder screw is to replace the cyl. If you think you don't have air in the line maybe you can get away just leaving it for now. Although with the age of the truck your probably close to needing to replace both cyls anyway. Maybe new shoes too.
ABS Light.....bummer.....
Jim
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Just to follow up. Replaced all the rear end brakes - everything was wore badlyand the drums were about 40 to 60 thou over. Now shoes are adjusted properly and the X brake works properly as a result of all the fixing of the rear brakes.