Apparently post #8 had no meaning or neither one of you read it.
Looks to me like both of you are going for some time off of FTE, stop the flaming PM"s and open flames.

Either let this go or both of you go.
Let me know how you would like to handle this.
Life is about choices. Make one!

 

I'm good.

Sorry.

I, uh, owe you guys a beer.

 

Ditto. Sorry, Tim... and everyone else.

 

ok so anyone else got any info to help this guy out?

 

Uhmmm, what guy?

 

What my tread should have said was when you try the key sometimes the strarter spins but does not grab, It sounds like the fly wheel is missing a couple teeth which I have checked out, The fly wheel is good So this being said If I shake the steering wheel or put the truck into N the engine will crank over and start, If i do not shake the wheel or put into N It just continues to spin but not engage. I had a new solenoid put on a little while ago maybe a mounth or so ago so it shoudn't be that.

 

that guy.


ok superdutykrazy.sounds to me like its gotta be the starter drive.the starter drive gear is just spinning and not "popping up" (for lack of a better term) like it should.i dont think its a saftey switch...IE.neutral/park saftey switch,because the starter wouldnt even spin in that case.the only thing i can think of is the starter.

 

Based on that description, the starter drive is more than likely the culprit.
What puzzles me is this:
That shouldn't have anything to do with it. Unless the starter isn't fauly at all, it's simply loose on the block and for some reason it twists itself into a position where the drive isn't shooting itself directly at the flywheel and when you shift it out of park, it relieves the pressure and everything falls back in alignment... I don't know. I'm at a disadvantage because I'm on the internet and not under your hood.

Shouldn't have had anything to do with it not engaging the flywheel/ring gear per say, but it might have made it go "click, click, click" w/o ever spinning the actual motor part of the starter...

But; wierder ch!t has happened, so if I were you, I'd either pull that starter and take it in and have it repaired (new drive clutch & armature bushings), or just toddle over to the parts store and just swap it out for a reman...

-on edit-
OR... loosen the mounting bolts and jiggle the starter around a little, and then tighten them back down and see if that changes anything, first. That's the cheapest thing to do...

-on second edit-
Dude, I'm really sorry about my first post. That WAS out of line. But in my own defense, it was hard to follow and did take me a while to break down.

 

That Ok I'm not the sharpest when It comes to trying to write down what I mean I'm not the most educated guy here

 

Hey guy, pull that starter out and take it to the parts store for testing.

 

Actually, I came up with an explaination for the "grinds in park - cranks in neutral" dilemma...

check the voltage (a decent DVOM needed) on the small wire to the solenoid on the starter in PARK, then check it again in NEUTRAL.

What you're looking for, is a difference between the two, with the neutral reading being higher (or the park reading being lower, depending on your point of view)...

could we be chasing a voltage loss due to high resistance somewhere?

The voltmeter tells no tales...

 

Thx I'll try that on the weekend an post back with the results, The voltage should be the same in park or neutral if there wasn't a problem with the circuit is this correct

 

this is Correct

 

did you get anywhere with this? Ain't gone to hearin' nuthin...

 

sorry I didn't post back been busy plowing snow and other things, I changed the ignition switch and its been good, the switch must have been bad, so there it is thanks for your help