Hey,

My 4.9 is running a little short on power these days. While I did roast a 4.3 the other day, it wasn't by far enough, and I lost to a 318 by way to far. Ladies and Gentlemen, the 318 is a SLOOOW engine. I want to do the following mods:

Platinum Plugs
K&N FIPK
Exhaust (not sure which yet)
SuperChip
Dist. Cap
9mm wires
190 degree thermostat
MAYBE 19lb injectors

I'm really leery about the injectors. I don't want to have to fool with a fuel pressure regulator, and fuel pressure gauge and all the other BS I would I have to deal with. Most of the stuff I get will be bought at my local AutoZone. The FIPK kit will be bought elsewhere. The exhaust system is a definite, but I'm not sure what exactly I want yet. I don't want headers. I cant afford them, nor will my parents let me have them. They really don't like the idea of injectors, but if mine show the slightest signs of fouling up, I mite accidently get the 19lber's. I know this isn't a race car engine. I just want a little mor pedal to play with. I'm sure of the rear end ratio but I'm running 31/10.5/15 tires. It has no problem lighting them up as is but I don't want that 318 to beat me by sooo much next time. He is all stock. Anyways, if ya can kinda judge hp/tq gains, I would very much appreciate it. My truck is a 1994 swb reg cab 5spd 300I6 4x2.

Thanx very much

 

I have been there and would like to say that none of the mods listed will give you the gains you are wanting. The injector deal might if you do cam/ head work. Don't get me wrong you would see a difference the first mod you did but after that you would see nothing cause these mods don't add up hp they just make the engine flow a little better combined, not good hp versus money spent. The best investment for your truck would be headers and dual exhaust. As far as power it would give you a slight increase not much but more importantly it will give you better mpg, this will contradict everything you have heard but let me tell you I have done it and it made a difference. Just my opinion though don't waste your money on all those things thinking it will improve your speed it won't. Other than internal mods which would work you could check to see what kinda rear you have and go with a larger one cause I have a 2wd with 3.55 and I beat a xcab 4X4 chevy with a 5.7 they were rated at 210hp as opossed to my/yours 140. Again don't expect this thing to become a street monster you are limited in many ways by your efi system. Just trying to save you some time and money. Good luck with whatever you decide hope it works out

 

Yes, I know a street racer will not be gotten from the mods I want. But you did say somthing about better mpg. Please enlighten me. I want/need/have-to-have better mpg. And don't tell me to get a 4cyl ranger. I love my truck.

Kyle

 

Do a catback exhaust, there are lots of them on them market, and you'll feel the difference.

Do 3" inlet/outlet Summit catalytic convertor, using the stock 4.9L dual 3-into-1 cast iron manifolds and down pipes; have a muffler shop build you a "Y" into the hiflo cat after the O2 sensor, and add a 3" length of pipe out of the hiflow cat into the 3" cat back system. If you're feeling really sporty, port-match the cast iron manifolds.

Fords ALWAYS need help on the exhaust side.

Don't do the 19#/hr. injector thing if you're not going to use an adjustable regulator and guage; you'll be wasting time, money, and gas. Just get your stock injectors freshened up.

The 3.55 is a great gear, 3.73 is better, and a 4.10 is too much (just enough, in my case).

Eddie

 

Well fellow I have clifford dual headers and dual 2.5" no cat through brand x turbo mufflers and chrome tips. Headers 200 and exhaust 180. I also replaced the stock fan with a 16 inch electric with a 180 thermostat. I went from watching my 95 efi such the gas literally as I drove to getting 18mpg overall mainly short driving. I will add I had dual exhaust first no improvement then two years later I added the dual headers not really any noticable difference in power then I added the electric fan and took the stock fan/clutch off. I am exteremely happy. Another tip if you do not have a tach then I would recommend summit brand with a shift light it runs $35 everyone will tell you it cannot be hooked up, well mine has been hooked up now for 5 months no problems. I think it helped in my mpg because I shift it consistently at 2000 rpm in every gear and it works. The power from all these mods was minimal but my truck runs great, it seemed to free it up some. Good luck

 

Wow JW: I can't imagine shifting at 2000 consistently, at least not on my '95 300 I6. While I could do that and there is plenty of torque below 2000, I get a power surge at 2000 that pretty much carries up into the mid to high 3000s and I love to feel it. I normally don't watch the tach, but in everyday driving tend to shift at 2500 to 3000. A couple runs into the high 3000s are a lot of fun now and then, though.

 

I used to shift at 2000 RPM as well but I got annoyed with the vibration sound I got from my truck when I put my foot in it at less than 1400rpm (which is where I end up when I shift at 2000). Sounds almost like a diesel.

Since that time i've gone up to shifting at 2500 and now I average about 2300rpm. No matter what I do I end up with 16-17mpg (on Mobil 1).

Another suggestion is to use synthetic oils if you don't have too many miles on your truck. If you've alot of miles it'll probably start leaking, but if it doesn't you'll feel an increase in fuel economy and it spins a little easier. Thats just my experience, I believe others here have felt the change as well.


-=Whittey=-

 

Well this may seem weird, but I thought my tach was off at first cause everyone says it can/will to 4000rpm etc. I have yet to see it, occasionally I will be driving a little more inconsistantly/aggressive and notice it going to 2800-2900 and it sounds like it is maxing out. At first I thought it was the tach being incorrect but I run the usual rpm formula's using the rpm I am at in 4th with the speed it's running and have come out close, so it's correct. As far as dieseling I have not felt that, I will admit I drive it like it has eggs in the bed but it still runs with plenty of power shifting at 2000rpm. All well

 

That's weird, I couldn't imagine shifting at 2000 rpm all the time, I normally shift ~3500, but, the NP 435 is a VERY wide ratio tranny.... My 300 has seen 7000 rpm, but, when I was running it with a stock Canadian 96 F250 OBD-1 MAF system(doesn't seem to be avalable in the US), it would easily hit 4000....
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide 4wd
HD 300-6 9.5:1 CR
Clifford 270H cam
Hedman Hedder
SBC valved 66 240 head
Headlight Relays - Delanty Style
NP435(6.69 low)
NP 205
3.55 Geared ARB'd 9" & Trac-Locked TTB
31x10.50/15 Cooper Discoverer LT's

 

I can easily hit 4000 on my '95 (but try to stay below about 3600). Did 4000 a lot on my '84--that thing would really haul right up to the 4000. Likely was doing 4 grand with my '77, but my memory fails me on that. Yeah it is a little noisy at the higher RPMs, but I think that may just be the nature of this beast. Sure is fun to wind her up! I just love driving this thing.

 

What other engine do you know that will pull a 7% grade in overdrive at 1200rpm. Can do, shifting at 1800 to 2000 can get you 20+MPG (US gallon) Herman

 

A diesel?

 

OK, you win. Herman

 

how bout what other gas engine

 

Hmmm, I added a Dynomax cat back system on my 1990 F-150 4.9l 4x2, and it was not only crappy sounding (like an import, IMO), but my mileage AND torque dropped. I bought the 1 into 2 setup, which had a 3" pipe after the cat, which then went into a SuperTurbo muffler, then into a set of dual 2-1/2" tailpipes. After two months, I cut it off with a sawzall, and bought a replacement "stock" exhaust, and used a 2-1/4" Dynomax SuperTurbo muffler, instead of a stock one. Mileage came back (18mpg mixed driving), and torque/power feels stronger. Today, I added a K&N FIPK, and it feels like it added some power, and better throttle response. I won't know the effect of my mileage for a few weeks, but it (as a $150 mod, compared to the $300 exhaust), actually made a difference, that I can feel. A 3" exhaust is simply too big for a "stock" 300 engine, that runs too lean to begin with, IMO. I tow my street/strip car to the track occasionally, and couldn't afford the loss of towing power.

1990 F-150, 4.9 Tow Vehicle
1986 Mustang LX 10.45@131
You MUST be FAST,
cause you were FLYING,
When I PASSED YOU!