What I thought was a clutch prolem and was about to cry because there was only 30k on the old one, turned out to be that the engine was missing under load. I brought it to my mechanic and that's what he told me?

Under load the truck would shudder, but at idle or in neutral the engine sounded and ran fine so i figured it must be the clutch or tranny... something in the driveline. I'm glad to hear it's not because although a new cap, wires, new or fixed pcv valve and a whole bunch of filters ive never heard of (called it a full tune up?) is expensive they aren't as expensive or as much a pain in the *** as a clutch....feww. I managed to get all this done plus new rotors, and pads for $725 - 10% cupon.... Would rather do myself but my uncle who supervises me is usually busy and it's getting too cold..... Is that a bad price or about average? I figured considering the parts add up to atleast 250-300 bucks i wasn't getting to screwed because with me that would take at least 10 hours and that's worth 600 bucks alone to a mechanic at 60 dollars an hour, although they are faster i figure at least 3-4 hours time right?

 

That's not bad. Sounds like a fair price. For me to do all of that would take all weekend. It sounds like a lot of money, and it is, but that mechanic is getting rich off of you. The pros earn their money.

Ripoff is when my wife took her Windstar in to our Ford dealer because it was running rough, turned out the warranty expired and she got a bill for $300 or so... the problem, a bad coil. I replaced mine last month in my truck --- $12.95.

Advice for next time, try to do whatever you can. Even just putting in a new air filter, changing the plugs/wires and rotor and rotor cap isn't hard on these motors and will save you some $$. And you'll be able to shop around for your parts and maybe save a few additional bucks. These are fairly easy motors to work on. Also, spend the 7.98 and get a repair book, I study mine before tackling a job.

 

Typo error -- make that the mechanic is NOT getting rich off of you. Remember they run a business, 3-4k per month just to cover lease space, utilities, phones, insurance, tools, supplies, and workers comp. The there's customers that come back saying their cars still don't run right, parts that fail and a few customers that create bad debt or are slow to pay.

 

Do a search on this forum (I-6) for 95 and codes or code reader. Then read the results. I want you learn how to read the error codes your truck's computer generates. This is what tells the mechanic where to start or what part to change out. You can do a lot of this yourself with basic tools and a little time and save money, as long as you don't mind getting dirty, but learning how to pull/retrieve your codes is essential. Also pays to invest in a chiltons or haynes manual, or both. I can't remember how to get codes from your 95 or I'd tell you in this post. Someone help this guy out...