Which way is the fan clutch threaded on a 2002 5.4l engine.....right or left?

I'm doing a efan conversion on my truck which I had planned for the summer but other things came up so I plan on doing it in the next couple of weeks. I took some advise earlier on using a 18 inch 2 speed taurus fan and now I gathered enough parts to finish the job.

Here's the list so if anyone has more to offer, please do so.

- 1 oem ford taurus fan 30 amp rating with the shroud
- 2 bosch 50 amp relays
- 2 spools of 10 gauge wire
- 1 flex-a-lite thermostat switch
- miles of conduit covering
- weather proof terminal ends
- couple packs of nylon straps

I plan on using the low speed for the AC/defrost and high speed for cooling which is why I am using 2 relays that are a good and beefy 50 amps. i also plan on soldering all conects so there won't be any chance of a short circuit. So far the total cost has been just under a $100 compared to a kit from troyer that is about $500.

If anyone is interested I will try to take pics and post them on this thread in case anyone else wants to attempt the conversion.

 

I am pretty sure that it is left hand threads. Good luck!

 

just had my 97 5.4 aprt for the psteering pump righty tighty lefty loosy.

 

Ok...another question. How many amps does this fan draw when it first comes on?? Googled it and came up with a couple of different answers, some say 30 amps while others say 100!!

 

I don't know about the amps but 100 is way on the extreme side. 30 is probally more like it. As far as the fan clutch threads, In my experience, it usually tightens opposite of the way the water pump rotates when the engine is running. In other words, if the water pump turns clockwise, the the threads will be left handed. Hope I didn't confuse you.

 

Not at all, thanx for your input. When I put an e-fan in my old 95 f150 it stated in the hanyes manual that it can either be left or right handed threads...and on front rad support it had an RH thread stamped on it.

I guess if it did draw that many amps (100) I would have to look at a starter relay as an option.

 

Haynes offers this: "On some models, the fan clutch hub is left-hand thread (turn clockwise to loosen)." I'd thought they were routinely reverse thread.

Haynes also notes the use of "special two-part fan wrench set, obtainable at most auto parts stores, is required" & shows a photo of the tools. I had little trouble using ordinary tools & my '98 4.6 was indeed reverse thread, as was my '92 5.0 & '85 4.9.

Haynes also directs you to "drain cooling system" & "remove the upper radiator hose" in order to remove the fan shroud. I found that the fan shroud was flexible enough to wrestle out w/o touching the antifreeze or hose. You need to lift out the fan assembly & shroud somewhat together.

You "also plan on soldering all conects so there won't be any chance of a short circuit"? Crimp type solderless connectors have proven themselves for decades & are rarely a source of a "short circuit". There is no link between "soldering all conects" & eliminating "any chance of a short circuit". Most shorts result from routing issues, where insulation gets worn through on sharp edges, exposing hot conductor to ground. IMO you would be ill advised to attempt to solder wires onto typical 1/4" flat blade, crimp type, terminals normally found on relays, fan motor contacts, thermostatic controls, switches, etc.

When you recycle a fan off a Taurus take note of the gauge of wire used, nothing any thicker is required, duplicate what had been used. Forget what you can find searching Google & use what FORD knows worked. Also take note of the fuse used to protect the cooling fan circuit & duplicate. That amperage is more than normal "fan draw when it first comes on". No need to try to reinvent the wheel the hard way. FORD already worked these details out for you.

 

Most oem fans are in the 10-12 gauge range so it would be appropriate to duplicate that at least. I believe in doing things overkill, so soldering the connections and using heat shrink wrap + conduit covering will provide the best possible connections as well as protection. This is also advice taken from guys I know who modify the electrical on their rigs. When dealing with higher amps such as fans the wires can heat up and possibly melt, why chance it is my belief. I'm am leaning towards some generic starter relays for the switching and in the range of 75 amps...once again, overkill but peace of mind for me.

I have dealt with crimp style and they are OK IMO for interior electrical...they are still subject to moister even with electrical tape (which always comes apart) which is why I don't like them in my engine bay.

I know of the tool you speak of. I did aquire one from a shop via "loan a tool" when I did my old truck....considering the age at the time the threads didn't budge, then I went to the trusty recip saw to finish the job. Hopefully I won't have to do this to my 02.

 

You're taking some terrific advice! Where I come from "generic starter relays" are designed to carry full battery amperage "in the range of" 400 amps. They're also designed for intermittent use-not continuous use. IMO "starter relays" would be unsuitable for e-fan use.

Not sure if you employ "overkill" or just KILL, however millions of Taurus e-fans have successfully covered trillions of miles over many years using all "crimp style" connectors under the hood, as have e-fans in many other models. Wish you luck "soldering all conects" to gain "peace of mind" just be careful not to melt any of the plastic components "soldering all conects".

Readers should also think twice before adopting the "overkill" "peace of mind" method of using "the trusty ricipro saw" to remove a fan clutch!

 

Dude, take your haynes manual and your so called taurus fan expertise and leave. You have a knack of turning a thread sour after a couple of posts because you have personality of a wet fart.

I am going to do it my way and it seems to burn you somewhat...in the end what do you care?

Many 4x4 guys have used those relays I speak off, they are simply an electronic switch and CAN handle a continuous load of 30 amps, it is very simular to a starter solenoid except you can run a continuous load from them. I have done several wiring jobs and I think am more than capable of takling another e-fan job....and i did it without your haynes bible you so hold high in praise.

So take your own advise simply don't do it the way I am......I never told anyone to do things my way at all. Don't turn this into another thread where you are having another PMS trip and need to vent on FTE.

 

Dude, take your copious personal insults & go "solder all conects" until your heart's content. I certainly don't give a ratz azz what you do to your pickup, I can only lead a horse to water, I have no illusions about getting the beast to drink. I voluntarily posted friendly advice & explained why, on an open forum, for anyone to read.

Now your "generic starter relays" have become "very simular to a starter solenoid"? Aren't all relays "simular"? A solenoid is not "simply an electronic switch" they use an electromagnet to do work-not neccessarily close a switch-that's what a relay does. So far as I can tell, what you deemed my "haynes bible" offers nothing whatsoever on converting to e-fans or substituting anything "simular to a starter solenoid" for anything else. Funny, that you referred to "hanyes" yourself & I suggested that you study the Taurus to reveal the fan's amperage-I don't know or care-you posted your confusion-only tried to help! Starter relays are made for intermittent use-not continuous use, they would very likely overheat during extended use required of e-fans & fail. It is not a question of them being able to handle the piddling amperage of an e-fan, they're made to operate for seconds at a time, rarely even a minute. FORD has a remote mounted, heat sinked, starter relay to help keep cool even in this short use. FORD also uses a starter mounted solenoid, which is an electromagnet that engages the starter gear to spin the ring gear. You'd be wise to lay off the insults, learn the difference between a relay & solenoid, then concentrate on the topic. If you're insulted that anyone might question aspects of your posts you need to grow some thicker hide.

My main purpose for posting was to warn naive members reading this thread that "soldering all conects" was no guarantee against short circuits, solderless crimp connectors have been universally accepted under the hood for decades & attempting to "solder all conects" could lead to problems from melted plastic components.

You seem to be the one suffering "PMS" perennially. I'm merely debunking some of what others might've considered "advise" in your posts. However, by all means stay & "vent on FTE" whenever you like. Some of your ideas are amusing, like using your "trusty ricipro saw" to remove a fan clutch after you failed using the special tools. I'll reserve judging your personality here & continue to post on the topics.

 

Respectfully, I agree that solenoids are not the prefered item for continious power up. The reason is they usually are designed to develope strong magnetic latching power to do a job. This, in it'self makes the solenoid draw more current adding to the circuits being controlled, for overall drain. Some temp sensors may not handle this too well over the long term if they are designed to control a relay and not a direct hi current control application.
Also, you will find your peticular fan assembly to be pretty current intensive for starting current. Usually 2 times running current. So choose relay capacity accordingly and fuse/ wire size accordingly.
Good idea is to check out the original application controller for what was used and dup it as best you can.
Good luck.

 

That is why I think the flexalite thermostat may be my weak link like you said, the taurus fan is a power sucking pig. I have heard from anywhere between 50-70 amps and in some cases up to a 100, but I would like to dismiss the higher due to most taurus alternators are about 75 amps with the exception of an SHO which I believe is 130 amps. I went with a 75amp continuous solenoid for that intial load when the fan clicks on, I have heard of these fans making mincemeat out of standard 30amp relays, these soleniods are desiged for electric golf cart applications so I think an efan would be no problem to handle.

The original controller for this fan was through the pcm of the car where it took it's readings from a sensor. That unfortunatley leaves me to seek aftermarket efan controllers which might lead to experiment from brand to brand, sometimes a the price you pay for doing a mod on a truck.

After everything is said and done I will post any problems I run into. The one thing I can see giving me the most problems is adapting the fan to my shroud. If anyone else other than Clubwagon (first on my official ignore list) have done this before, some help would be appreciated.

 

Not sure if the fan threads were addressed. Anyway, By design the fan will tighten against the motor turning. Making the fan self tightening by the motor. Otherwise if it ever loosened it woudl spin right off when the motor started. So it will thread off by turning the fan in the same direction it runs and holding the motor.

I also concur that the starter relay is sunject to heat in extended use. even at that low current. Your 50 amp bosch units are more than adequate. 40 amp is acceptable and 30 would work fine. The fan shoud be around 27 amp running max. hwy or hood open will reduce that. most fans are less than 22 continuos. 10g wire is also about right.

Another thought. If this system where to pull the amperage discussed in this thread, you want to increase the altenator capacity. Adding an e-fan is actually putting the system close to max with all accessories on. Should not be a problem for you. Usually a southern heat with AC issue. Just be aware.

Can't give you a best brand for a controller. I build my own cause the aftermaket ones are too sensitive, limited in adjustments. $$$ for multiple controls etc... But it has been a while since I messed with them.

You may need to add a blocking diode to your list of parts. Depending on your design. One circuit will trigger the other.

Curious about your mounting plans for the fan. Be cautious about strapping to the radiator thru the fins. this will guarantee a short life for the rad.

Just as a note. I live in Kansas and will be removing my fan shortly for the winter. 98 f150 5.4. I pull the shroud and keep the fan in the bed so I can spin it on easliy. Someday I plan to convert this one to e-fans. But for winter I just don't need the fan except on those warmer days with traffic. temps in the 30s the truck only pulls 150 deg below 50. hwy will creep up to 180. So I have to remove it to get a decent heater. Oh, this was a Nevada truck so has all the heafty cooling. In short, you will really like your fans for winter heat.

Good luck.

 

The plan is to adapt the efan to my stock shroud where the clutched fan opening is and not the rad itself. I had past experience with the tabs that attach directly to the rad and ran into problems you speak of....they evenually worked themselves loose and almost caused damage to the rad, not an option for my current truck that is for sure.

Everything is going to be fused at a lower amperage, probably around 50 for direct current from the battery and about 20 for the switching. If everything works fine and i don't get fuses blowing I will consider going to the bosch relays.

Does the diode drain the power produced from the fan spinning freely from air flowing through the rad?