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This morning and a past few others my truck will not start. It will just crank and crank and maybe want to start and then just quickly dies again. there is alot of white smoke coming out the exhuast and the engine bay after it crank a few times. after about ten min of trying to crank it the truck sometimes starts but very hard and doesn't idle out smooth for about 40 seconds and still blows smoke. i can start driving it and it will run great like nothing happened without smoking anymore and then for the rest of the day the truck will start and run fine for the rest of the day.
It only seems to be in the morning when the truck has been sitting for a while. today was the first cold morning however this happened yesterday and the day before where it was about 65 and 70 degrees outside so i canceled out the glow plugs being an issue.
Please help with any information you may have. i bought a CPS sensor allready but the white smoke is what puts my off ease.
This is my hunch. Sounds like you glow plugs are not warming the engine. My wife started my truck without waiting for the glow plugs and the results were similar.
Make sure your GPR is functioning
sounds like glow plugs or glow plug relay
the smoke in engine compartment is probly an exhaust leak which won't effect starting but should be addressed for performance reasons
When it happend to me, everyone said glow plugs, like you, I didnt think so, but sure as s@#t, there was cracked GPR relay. THe next year, problems again, loose connection at the top of the GPR relay.
yeah the only disconcerning part of this is that it happened on days that it is not cold outside. also even if it is a glow plug then why is there all the white smoke it seems like it may be burning oil. i just hope its not due to a possible oil leak. the Glow plugs really are not used on days it is warm out.
White smoke is fuel...Next time you start the truck in the morning, turn the key to the running position, then short across the large posts on the GPR with a screwdriver for about 30 seconds. If it starts easier, you'll know the GPR is dead. You then need to ohm out the glowplugs.
I can tell you that the glow plugs are controlled by the PCM and the PCM uses inputs from oil temperature and the BARO sensor, not atmpsheric temperature..I have a light which shows me when the glowplugs are activated by the GPR...you would be surprised at when the PCM "thinks" it needs to run the glowplugs.
Last edited by nlemerise; Oct 29, 2007 at 09:48 AM.
but this would affect even a warm morning start. ok to check the ohms on the GPR what terminals do i test across to check
From my earlier post: "you would be surprised at when the PCM "thinks" it needs to run the glowplugs" and the search utility is your friend. This has been dealt with numerous times...just do an advanced search on +ohm + glowplug
There are two large guage wires on the relay. One is hot all the time, the other is hot when the relay is switched on and functioning. You can put an alligator clip on the switched terminal and set your meter so you can see it from the drivers seat. (obviosly connect the black wire to the negative on the batt or engine block). You should have 12 volts when the WTS light comes on and it should cycle after the light turns off. A simple test light will work for this also.
You should have 12 volts when the WTS light comes on and it should cycle after the light turns off. A simple test light will work for this also.
The WTS light is in no way connected to the GPR. The WTS light could be on and the GPR could be off OR the WTS light can be off and the GPR could be on. In other words, the WTS light is not one of Ford's better ideas. That is why they should have put the WTS light in to the cold side of the GPR...then you know when it is on and you know when it is off.
so im going to go out to my truck now with my meter is this something i need to do with the truck cold? and the relay on the top of the engine i have two gold plated terminals across from each other one with two heavy gauge brown or black wires i can tell im color blind and the other side is one thicker wire. my friend says at the top is a pinkish thin gauge wire he said and across from that is the same gauge red wire. which terminal am i testing the 12volts at and then which two am i doing the Ohms test on im guessing the two thick brown wires
Hello, if it helps, here goes. On my 99 250 PSD, I had all these problems, I changed glow plugs and all related relays, still wouldn't start even @ 80-90 degrees, took it to local shop, sensor for intake air heater was shot, got it replaced, runs like a champ now. Oh yeah, pardon me if I'm not using correct terminology.
Huh i wonder if that could be the issue i have done the 6637 filter and just left that sensor tied up in the corner of the engine bay. i wonder if that could be the issue as well