Greetings!

I apologize in advance for this long post.

I'm about to embark on a rotor and pad replacement on my 2004 F-150 SCAB 2WD, 5.4L V-8, HD payload (7-lug hubs). I am experiencing the vibration and pulsating sensation that other people have come across. I've had the rotors replaced once per TSB 05-6-21, which I've learned through this site has been superceded by TSB 05-21-19. At this point I'm going to do the fronts because that seems to be where the problem is, then if all goes well I'll do the rears. I've never done a brake job/rotor job before, so I'm a little hesitant, but I'm fairly mechanically inclined, and after reading through lots of posts here and on other forums, I think it's something I can handle.

A few questions:

(1) As far as I can tell, the rotors for these 2WD trucks are a one-piece assembly. Fordparts.com has them for $177.33 (PN 5L3Z-1102-BA). I plan on getting either some Brembos or Powerslots, not the crappy OEMs that got me to where I am. It looks like I can get Powerslots at Tirerack for $160 per rotor (PN 8779PSL and PSR). And will these aftermarket rotor assemblies be of the one-piece variety?
(2) Regarding pads, I'm thinking of getting Hawk LTS pads. Others have mentioned they are happy with them. When you buy them, do you get 2 or 4 pads in a box (IOW, pads for one wheel or two)? I know, stupid question! Looks like Pep Boys has them for $80, and the picture shows 4 pads.
(3) I have learned that the large spindle nut must be removed, discarded, and replaced with a new one (which I've found at Fordparts.com for about $14 ea). The torque on that thing is very high - like 295 ft-lb! Have people had problems getting it off or back on? Cheater bar?
(4) It looks like there is a castle nut and some cotter pins that go on after the spindle nut - do those need to be removed and replaced also? If so, anybody know the part numbers and torques for those?
(5) What type/brands of anti-seize, brake cleaner, high-temp grease, and anti-squeak goop would you recommend for cleaning, lubing slide bolts, etc.?
(6) Will it be necessary to bleed the brake system? I've read that you do, and that you don't need to. Any harm in not doing it (pedal mushiness, death)?

I better stop now. I'm thinking too much. I gotta get the parts together and a few more tools (like that 36mm socket for the spindle nut), but I wanted to gather as much info as possible before I get started. Thanks in advance for any tips, advice, and suggestions!

 

As far as which pads to recommend I can't help you there,still running the originals. When you purchase a "set" of pads thy are 4 pieces two for each wheel on what ever axle you are working. As far a lubricant or anti-rattle, a lot of pads come with a small tube of grease. Other than that I can't recommend any one over the other.
On your rotoe issue. Is the hub and bearing in the rotoe when you purchase it or does it come with the 7 bolt holes and a large hole in the center? If the hud bearing is not in th hub they are considered "slip-on" and they do just that. Once you remove the caliper the rotor will simple pull off. unless the bearing is in the rotor you have no need to remove the axle nut from the truck.
Finally unless you open or accidentl break a break line there is no need to bleed the system. This is not necessary unless air is introduced into the system and unless there is a problem this can only be done by you. Just leave the bleed fittinga lone and support the caliper with a piece of wire or something. Don't let it hang by the brake line. Hope I helped some and good luck.

 

I haven't actually seen these rotors, but from what I can gather, the rotor assembly has the bearing pre-installed. I'm guessing that the spindle nut preloads the bearing, so that's why the torque on it is so high.

I found this picture:
[img]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/00j5350/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.jpg[/img]http://206.188.197.102/ProductImages...-3100-07AA.jpg

So I think that's what they look like. The lug studs are attached to the rotor. Looks like the bearing is in there, too. In which I would need to remove the spindle nut, right?

Thanks for the info on the bleeding the brakes!
[img]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/00j5350/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/img]
[img]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/00j5350/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/img]

 

Thanks again, gpeade. Anybody else care to add? Should this be moved to the Brakes forum?

 

Go to Advance Auto web site, look up the parts and it will tell you the rotors is all 1 piece. The axle has to come off.

 

Go to Advance Auto web site, look up the parts and it will tell you the rotors is all 1 piece. The axle nut has to come off.

 

It won't come with the bearings, just the race is pressed in.

I found those rotors for $114 ea... better shop around... www.rockauto.com

 

I know the stock oem rotors are crap, but honestly there is probably a reason for them warping. My 04 had the front calipers stick which resulted in excess heating of the rotor. So while the rotor is warped, definitely inspect the brake calipers too.

 

Thanks a lot guys! That helps out a lot. I'll take a look at the links provided and do a little more comparison shopping.

rootdenied - what types of things should I be looking for when inspecting the brake hardware?

 

Make sure to get some brake slide pin lube, its a very specific product made by Permatex. You'll want to spread that silicone lube onto the brake slide pins. That should keep things from sticking.

As long as the grease you use is rated for Disk brakes you should be fine, it all has to meet minimum requirements.

 

Thanks, Matts72. I'll be sure and look for that lube.

 

OK, I finally got around to doing this job, and I was successful in removing and replacing one of the rotors and brake pads on the front. I'm about to do the other side now, and I thought I read some conflicting advice regarding loctite on the screw threads of the caliper bolts and the caliber bracket bolts.

Loctite: yes or no?

Thanks.

 

A small amount of blue loctite will be okay, and keep things from vibrating loose.

 

[QUOTE=Matts72]It won't come with the bearings, just the race is pressed in.

I found those rotors for $114 ea... better shop around... www.rockauto.com[/QUOTE]


it does come with the bearing not just the race its a pressed in bearing.

 

Robbins - thanks for the tip, but it's a done deal - they're already on. Plus I have 7-lug variety, and those are a little more.

Matts72, thanks for the loctite info.

Dumb question, but where would you dispose of old rotors? Junkyard? I hate to just throw them on the curb.