Getting my 317 running again I ended up bending five push rods due to sticking valve stems. They were essentially glued in place because of old gas. I used Sealed Power RP3021 from Rock Auto.

List of compatible vehicles for pushrods:
EDSEL RANGER 1959-1960
EDSEL VILLAGER1959-1960
FORD 300 1963
FORD CLUB 1953-1959
FORD COUNTRY SEDAN 1952-1964
FORD COUNTRY SQUIRE 1952-1964
FORD COURIER SEDAN DELIVERY 1952-1960
FORD CRESTLINE 1952-1954
FORD CUSTOM 1952-1964
FORD CUSTOMLINE 1952-1956
FORD DEL RIO WAGON 1957-1958
FORD F-100 1953-1964
FORD F-250 1953-1964
FORD F-350 1953-1964
FORD F1 1952
FORD F2 1952
FORD F3 1952
FORD F4 1952
FORD FAIRLANE 1955-1962
FORD GALAXIE 1959-1964
FORD MAINLINE 1952-1956
FORD P-100 1957-1964
FORD P-350 1952-1964
FORD PARK LANE WAGON 1956
FORD RANCH WAGON 1952-1964
FORD RANCHERO 1957-1959
FORD SKYLINER 1954-1959
FORD STARLINER 1960
FORD SUNLINER 1952-1960
FORD VICTORIA 1952-1960
LINCOLN CAPRI 1952-1955
LINCOLN COSMOPOLITAN 1952-1954
LINCOLN CUSTOM 1955
MERCURY COLONY PARK 1961-1962
MERCURY COMMUTER 1961-1962
MERCURY METEOR 1961
MERCURY MONTEREY 1961-1962
MERCURY VILLAGER 1962

 

I built a woodgas truck,,, a Dodge Dakota with a 318. If you really want to stick some valves, wood gas is perfect.
I finally broke down and bought the manual for the 317. I learned something new. The caps are there to allow the valve to rotate. A notation and drawing in the book explained that the caps have to sit .002 to .004 above the stem. You have to grind the stems or lap the caps to get the clearance right. The caps push down on the valve split keepers. I imagine that it would cause big problems if the clearance was too much and, the keepers came off.

 

I just picked up 4 more tires that match the fronts. The lug pattern from a 2 1/2 ton military truck works perfect. I bought a universal type wiring harness that is very good quality BUT, the printing on the wires is terrible. I bought a new turn signal switch and, I'm having a hard time trying to get it connected to my big mess of spaghetti. The switch calls for a 3-wire flasher and my, harness has a pair of 2-wire flashers.
The PTO for the dump bed is undoubtedly original. It has an idler shaft that ran on needle bearings and, was badly worn. I finally found something to make a replacement shaft. It is a drill blank, NOT a drill rod. I just cut a small notch in it for the set screw. I was missing some needles for the uncaged bearing. I started searching online but, no good. I had changed the rear U-joint,,, a 1350 Spicer. I never throw anything away that may have some possible use. The needles in the u-joint were .125 X 750,,, just like the needles in the PTO.
I'm slowly making progress on the doors. I finally found the steel channels and, got the new glass into them. It's far easier to work on the electrical and dash with the doors off.
I ordered new, custom pushrods from Smiths in Oregon. I needed 3/8 in. longer. I found plenty of equal length pushrods but, they did not have a cup at the top.
I mounted the new E7 brake valve & pedal. I've got most of the air lines in. I have a low-air buzzer and light. I still have to run the lines for the parking brake. It didn't have this originally.
I have to figure putting on piggyback brake cans where it just has single diaphragms now.
I brought the tach into North Hollywood Speedometer to get rebuilt. it was pretty jacked up.
Somebody hacked out big holes above the windshield to mount wiper motors. I took out the 6v. motors and installed 12v.
The short days and the weather are slowing me down.

 

Well, I finally got the engine together. It is TIGHT. New pistons on old bore. New crank & bearings. New cam with new hydraulic lifters. I changed to the late style starter motor that doesn't have the long, extended Bendix. I had to shave a bit on the ears of the block and grind a bit of a relief at the counter-bore on the bell housing. My current problem is; I have a tack-drive governor below the distributor. The distributor has NO centrifical advance. There are 2 steel tubes that go from the carb to the governor. They control vacuum advance AND vacuum retard. There is also a normal vacuum advance diaphragm on the side of the distributor. I want to get rid of the crappy "teapot" carb but, I don't want to lose my mechanical tach. I have a little Holley 2 bbl that I want to use but,,, the distributor won't work right. Has anybody taken the distributor off the governor and put on a distributor with a normal point plate?

My other question is; Has anybody tried to drop in a 360 / 390 with the complete bellhousing and front mount? The 317 has side mounts that sit on the crossmember and a front bracket. I'd be willing to bet that a 360 with side mounts would slip right in there. The trans mounting and imput shaft are the same as a 391 that I worked on.

I had the strangest problem with the doors and hinges. There was no possible way that the doors that I took off would go back on. I finally put the hinghes on the mill and changed the holes to slots to get it to adjust far enough outboard. All the hinges only have one part number. Very mysterious.
I' m hoping to set the engine in the rails today. YES, I know that I am behind on pictures.

 

Things are going together pretty well. Had to work out quite a few bugs. The tach drive distributor is TWO piece and has a clamp just below the cap to rotate the top half to set the timing.
I've got a 12 v. alternator mounted. Just need the tensioner adjustment bar. The down pipes are on the exhaust. Trans and T-case are full of oil. I'm slowly getting the linkage right.
1 lever for Trans shifter
2 levers for the t-case
1 lever for the parking brake.
2 levers for the dump bed
I've got the compressor mounted but, don't have a belt yet.
Power steering seems to be finished,,, Garrison
Brake system is finished except for the high temp hose that goes from the compressor to the tank.
I have a couple of tow hooks squeezed in between the bumper and front sheet metal.
Got a couple of new 12V wiper motors mounted in the huge holes hacked out by last owner.
The Dodge in the last picture is NOT a minitruck

 

That thing looks like a beast..

 

Danny,
Wow great progress on the big-Job! Thanks for the picture.
Regards,
Chris

 

I'm envious of your truck and the work you're doing on it. Looks beautiful! Curious what the truck was in it's former life, unusual frame mounting on the back.

 

Mixerman, if you look at post # 254, you will see that the truck came with a 4 yard Heil dump bed. It also had a framework mid-ship that I believe was a mount for a spreader of some kind.
I left the bed up in Oregon and brought the truck to L.A. Not sure if the dump bed will go back on. It's kind of beat up. I painted the fenders but, can't put them on until after I get the engine all completed. There just isn't enough access.

 

This is a great thread.... but I don’t have my big job anymore. Got sick and had to part ways. Love them big trucks though.

 

Hi bigjob , where in central PA are you? Sold your big job,do you still have a smaller Ford?

 

Yeah, I got sick and needed the money. I do have a 1955 f100 that I’ve had for 32 years. I live about apple miles south of Carlisle.

 

I see it has a later service brake valve those are slick......nice truck sam

 

The truck came originally with a single-circuit foot valve and, a front & rear quick release valves. That was it.
It now has an air dryer, an E7 foot valve, 3 relay valves and 30-30 piggyback brake chambers. The original air governor is replaced with a D-2 governor. Naturally, it has a parking brake valve on the dash. It has 2 tanks but, only one air pressure gauge on the dash. It has the usual dash light and buzzer for low-air. Surprisingly, it has an inspection bolt in the drums to check the linings. I relined the original parking brake band on the transfer case. It still works.
I'm stuck waiting to get my carb back from the rebuilder in New Jersey.
I have the 54-55 Ford truck shop manual. on page 371, they show a fixture for BENDING the whole door if it doesn't align in the opening. I fear that I am going to have to do this. I already milled slots into the hinges to make them more adjustable. That just wasn't enough.

 

It isn't a Big Job but, it is a hell of a truck,
Moving soon and must sell. This is a very rare vehicle 1956 ford f6 f600 coleman 4x4. It was a pole installation truck. It has a massive winch in the bed that runs off the transmission. Running 292 y block V8 gas motor. Very little rust. Text me if you are serious
trade for ???

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• No pictures but, I think I'll go over there and look.