300 Torque Increase
Originally Posted by IcemanV8
Is this guy even gonna get a turbo? I think that's enough turbo talk. I wouldn't want a turbo on a slow rock crawling/mudding vehicle. You want instant, responsive power in any of those situations. I've had a few turboed vehicles, 3000GT VR4 with twin 13G's and a Stealth R/T TT with twin 15G turbos. Sure... they are probably bigger than what you are talking about, and I ran 19psi on a built 3.1 DOHC 24-valve V6 (500 horsepower), and turbo lag is nasty at low RPM.
yeah i never even wanted a turbo to begin with, haha, im just looking to slightly upgrade my current 300, headers and maybe a cam kit for a little extra kick, but i gotta know how screwed up my computer is gonna get if i do that
Some cams will work with the stock computer. I don't know which ones, though. Someone will tell ya. It just depends on how big of a cam you want. You can't go too big, of course. But, it's easy to get a good torquey cam.
Originally Posted by RacinNdrummin
Nope, the horsepower and torque curves will emulate the stock curves on a stock application, the only thing you are doing is effectively raising atmospheric pressure. If you can have 10psi at 2000RPM, your going to have 270hp at 2000 RPM, end of story. And your crazy for saying that 10-12 PSI would leave parts under the truck, the only thing that can happen at 10psi to damage anything is detonation, and with the timing backed off and a decent intercooler, there is hardly any worry to that, If you split the block, its because you have a bad block.
for the sake of argument, lets agree that a stock 300 is dynoing 100 hp and 260 ft-lb at 2000 rpm. if you take somethign more reasonable like maybe 300 ft-lb at 2000 rpm after turboing, that gives you 114 hp according to the formula. +14.....not *2.7....
I would also just like to point out that due to the tiny head (i posted a thread about airflow data on a stock 300, look it up), 10 psi really isnt that much. you need WAY more turbo to pump out 10 psi on a 300 cfm head than you do on a stock 300 head (about 150-160 cfm peak). add to that fords classic choke-down on the exhaust side, and 10 psi really isnt that much.
the OP doesnt even want a damn turbo anyway. have you even personally turbo'd your 300, or are you just making claims based on ebay prices and theory?
get a decent cam. the crane or comp cams come in a full kit, with lifters, valve springs, etc. as for exhaust dependiong on how loud you want to be its either straight pipe with or without cats. any muffler is too restrictive for this engine. and dont be tricked into an intake. Ford spent a lot of money for you to have a closed air box.
get a K&N filter for it and leave it at that. Regear the axles depending on your tire size.
Thats about it. And you can do all of this for about 3500k. if you do it yourself that is.
get a K&N filter for it and leave it at that. Regear the axles depending on your tire size.
Thats about it. And you can do all of this for about 3500k. if you do it yourself that is.
Vladimir:
Cams in the 260/270 range have been found to be compatible with the EFI computers. Does CT have a require exhaust test? If so, you may have some tuning issues with a cam upgrade before you will pass.
If your not looking for a lot of top end power then cleaning up the runners of your existing exhaust manafolds will be good, provided neither is cracked. Replace the twin cats with a single 2into1 generic high flow cat, step the pipes up from 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" and replace stock muffler with a decent flowing one and your good here.
IIRC Summit carries a Bosch overhaul kit for the injectors. Basicly replaces the internal screens and both orings.
If your coil is old replace it. Maybe with something like the Accel Supercoil. If you do go with a hotter coil, it's a good idea to upgrade the plug wires to a decent 8mm set. It's also a good idea to replace the TFI module on the destributor with one that is optimized for the higher output. Open the sparkplug gap from .045 to .050-.055 to take advantage of the hotter spark as well.
The cam and the exhaust will get you the best results. The ignition is more of a "feel good" that a quantifiable upgrade. YMMV.
There are a lot of other things that are a good idea to do while the engine is apart that affect longevity but will have little or no effect of performance. (roller rockers, hypereutetic pistons, etc)
Cams in the 260/270 range have been found to be compatible with the EFI computers. Does CT have a require exhaust test? If so, you may have some tuning issues with a cam upgrade before you will pass.
If your not looking for a lot of top end power then cleaning up the runners of your existing exhaust manafolds will be good, provided neither is cracked. Replace the twin cats with a single 2into1 generic high flow cat, step the pipes up from 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" and replace stock muffler with a decent flowing one and your good here.
IIRC Summit carries a Bosch overhaul kit for the injectors. Basicly replaces the internal screens and both orings.
If your coil is old replace it. Maybe with something like the Accel Supercoil. If you do go with a hotter coil, it's a good idea to upgrade the plug wires to a decent 8mm set. It's also a good idea to replace the TFI module on the destributor with one that is optimized for the higher output. Open the sparkplug gap from .045 to .050-.055 to take advantage of the hotter spark as well.
The cam and the exhaust will get you the best results. The ignition is more of a "feel good" that a quantifiable upgrade. YMMV.
There are a lot of other things that are a good idea to do while the engine is apart that affect longevity but will have little or no effect of performance. (roller rockers, hypereutetic pistons, etc)
What do you mean crake the computer? And how do you do that?
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