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next question. 96 f-150 has 88,000 miles, lacks power
& lousy fuel mileage. New plugs, cap & rotor last year.
Want to replace oxygen sensor. Repair manual says replace
at 60,000. Which one, front or rear or both. What else
can i do.
Normally, I'd say pull the codes ;-) , but your '96 has the OBD-II engine management system and it takes a scantool ($100 for a cheapie ) to get the codes out. If you're gonna replace the HEGO, do all of them with quality Bosch units and if they aren't packaged with anti-sieze lube already on the threads, buy some. It's good to have anyway, for everything from lug nuts to campershell bolts.
Poor mileage could be due to a bad catalytic converter. If they get plugged power and mileage will both suffer. When you replace the O2 sensors get a Ford part from a dealer. Aftermarket O2 sensors suck and they aren't much cheaper than stock. The Bosch I had in my truck before was $70 at Autozone. I just put a Ford sensor in and it cost me $64, I'm guessing list is about $80-85. Aftermarket sensors are cheaper for a reason: they suck. We will not install an aftermarket part on a car because of that very reason. We would actually make a lot more money if we did.
According to any service literature I've read, both with Ford and Jaguar, and even with Chrysler, BOTH O2s should be replaced at the same time, and then the battery disconnected for 5 minutes before restarting, so the computer will recalibrate for the new O2s. Just be glad you don't have a 98+ Jaguar XJ-6! The set of four O2s goes for $1000, not including the 2.5 hours of install time.
If you have upstream and downstream sensors the truck is equipped with OBDII. OBDII doesn't forget when disconnected from power like the older systems did. The only way to reset an OBDII PCM is with a scanner.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Dec-02 AT 02:49 PM (EST)]The dealership can check for about $90...or you can get a heat gun and use it in front of the cats.
BTW I forgot who said it but, someone said go to the dealer for the O2 sensor's because after market suck...don't waste your money because these trucks came stock with Bosch o2's, just go to Napa and get Bosch's, I think I paid like $150 for all 3 sensor's.(if you take a look at your stock o2 sonsor's you will see a Bosch part# and below it it will have a Ford part#)This might not involve OBD-I systems.
BTW there is a federal warranty on the cat's, it's 8 yrs or 80k miles which ever occurs first....if your truck fit's into this the dealership has to replace the cat's for free. You still fit into the 8 yr slot but if you truck is over 80k and has like 90k then tell the dealership you would like a "AWA" After Warrantee Adjustment and they will probly bring down the price a bit.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Dec-02 AT 02:51 PM (EST)]And why is it that you guy's say the only way to reset the PCM on a OBD-II is with a scan tool?
Just unplug the neg battery cable for 10 minutes with the headlights on and it reset's. Anyone with common knowledge of the OBD-II know's that. Any dealership tech will tell you this.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Dec-02 AT 07:37 PM (EST)]I have never had an an SES light on an OBDII vehicle go out after unhooking the battery. Even if that would work, what good does it do to turn the headlights on? No dealership will tell you to do that, if they do there is something wrong. OBDI resets if you hold your mouth right, OBDII has a much better memory. If I remember correctly, part of federal OBDII certification is the requirement of a scanner to clear codes. The only loophole might be that OBDII wasn't required until 97, so the earlier trucks might not have met all the criteria.
Bosch did make some of the O2 sensors for Ford. The difference between a NAPA Bosch and a Ford Bosch is the quality control. The sensors they've got at NAPA are probably the ones that didn't pass inspection to be a Ford part. I just replaced the one in my truck and the price difference was just a few dollars anyway. I'd rather spend $5 more an know I've got a good part.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Dec-02 AT 11:49 PM (EST)]I can't say if there is a difference between the Napa and Ford sensors...as for the resetting the OBD-II turning on the headlights for 10 minutes is what clears the memory, and this is what I was told to do by the dealership tech. I can't speak for the 97+ guy's but I do recall them doing this same procedure.
It's alway's cleared my SES light.
I was also told to reset it this way by the guy's at AutoZone(but that's probly the only good info I've ever got from them LOL)
If the o2 sensor's are just a tad more then I'd go with the Ford one's then, I've learned my leason going with after market parts...in the end it always pay's off to go with Ford parts.
With OBDII, disconecting the battery will not reset the light, but it will reset the calibrations. Also, on some occasions, it will actually cause the light to come on for 2 drive cycles, with a "Lack of calibration" code.
if you read up above you will see that isn't the proceedure to rest the OBD-II that we were discussing, it's disconnecting the battery AND turning on the headlights for atleast 10 minutes....the turning on of the headlights while the battery is disconnected is what resets the PCM's memory.
I tried this on a 96 Mustang we had in the shop today. I intentionally set a MASS code by unplugging the sensor, then plugged it back in. After unhooking the battery and turning the lights on as directed the SES light was still on.
I went to www.obdii.com and searched the forum for code clearing methods and came up empty. Some folks said it worked, others said it didn't. Looks like it my vary from vehicle to vehicle or model to model. I didn't search very long, so the definitive answer might be there.