1969 Ford Cummins Crew Cab Conversion

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #631  
Old 01-23-2011, 12:37 AM
4x4x7879's Avatar
4x4x7879
4x4x7879 is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Spring Creek, Nevada
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just looked at every page of this build and i have to say your attention to detail and fab skills are second to none. If you dont mind what did you use to paint your frame, inner fenders and fire wall? I am getting ready to take my truck apart to paint the frame etc. and not sure what im going to use. just trying to gather info. Thanks
 
  #632  
Old 01-23-2011, 02:02 AM
ChaseTruck754's Avatar
ChaseTruck754
ChaseTruck754 is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 6,981
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Originally Posted by HRDROKN
I think I have seen it done with some Dodge first gen IC's, but anything other than that... I was thinking interferes with the front grill mounting?
It may be a little different on the bumpsides, but I've seen air to air on the early 60's trucks and the 73-79's. Not that you want to change now, but I think an intercooler can fit in the bumps.

Side note on a different subject... On you fuel lines from the injection pump to the injectors. Did you take them and have them cad/zinc plated or were they that goldish color under the paint? I'm debating on getting a bunch of stoff on my motor cad plated, but I'm a bit gunshy after they reamed my on my last plating run
 
  #633  
Old 01-23-2011, 12:40 PM
HRDROKN's Avatar
HRDROKN
HRDROKN is offline
Tuned

Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vacaville, California
Posts: 401
Received 6 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by 4x4x7879
Just looked at every page of this build and i have to say your attention to detail and fab skills are second to none. If you dont mind what did you use to paint your frame, inner fenders and fire wall? I am getting ready to take my truck apart to paint the frame etc. and not sure what im going to use. just trying to gather info. Thanks

I used Rust Bullet....

 
  #634  
Old 01-23-2011, 12:43 PM
HRDROKN's Avatar
HRDROKN
HRDROKN is offline
Tuned

Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vacaville, California
Posts: 401
Received 6 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754
It may be a little different on the bumpsides, but I've seen air to air on the early 60's trucks and the 73-79's. Not that you want to change now, but I think an intercooler can fit in the bumps.
It seems that it had something to do with the way the grill mounts?

Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754
Side note on a different subject... On you fuel lines from the injection pump to the injectors. Did you take them and have them cad/zinc plated or were they that goldish color under the paint? I'm debating on getting a bunch of stoff on my motor cad plated, but I'm a bit gunshy after they reamed my on my last plating run
The lines were that way once the paint is stripped off...

 
  #635  
Old 01-24-2011, 12:11 AM
4x4x7879's Avatar
4x4x7879
4x4x7879 is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Spring Creek, Nevada
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Did you spray it or brush it on? I noticed on the web site it can be done either way. I brushed por 15 on some parts about 10 years ago with really good results but i do not have the parts anymore so not sure how it held up. I like the fact that the rust bullet is not affected by uv rays like por 15. Thanks for any info.
 
  #636  
Old 01-24-2011, 10:16 AM
HRDROKN's Avatar
HRDROKN
HRDROKN is offline
Tuned

Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vacaville, California
Posts: 401
Received 6 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by 4x4x7879
Did you spray it or brush it on? I noticed on the web site it can be done either way. I brushed por 15 on some parts about 10 years ago with really good results but i do not have the parts anymore so not sure how it held up. I like the fact that the rust bullet is not affected by uv rays like por 15. Thanks for any info.

I used a brush to get it in the tight areas, then followed it all with a small foam roller to give it a little texture.

 
  #637  
Old 01-25-2011, 09:56 PM
HRDROKN's Avatar
HRDROKN
HRDROKN is offline
Tuned

Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vacaville, California
Posts: 401
Received 6 Likes on 3 Posts
I've come to the conclusion that fabing/bending brake lines suck!

Finished up the front from the M/C to line lock and back to the crossmember...






 
  #638  
Old 01-26-2011, 01:27 PM
phyrekitsune's Avatar
phyrekitsune
phyrekitsune is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by HRDROKN
I've come to the conclusion that fabing/bending brake lines suck!
Yes, it really does. At least you get to work on a clean truck instead of a filthy one. Midwest cars dump all the crusty rust into your eyes when pulling the old stuff out, too.

Where'd you put that prop valve? I know it's in the cab, but that doesn't look like a seat bracket to me.
 
  #639  
Old 01-26-2011, 01:30 PM
ChaseTruck754's Avatar
ChaseTruck754
ChaseTruck754 is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 6,981
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
it's on the bottom corner of the dash
 
  #640  
Old 01-26-2011, 01:52 PM
HRDROKN's Avatar
HRDROKN
HRDROKN is offline
Tuned

Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vacaville, California
Posts: 401
Received 6 Likes on 3 Posts
That's just the line lock for the front brakes on the lower corner of the dash... I haven't decided quite where I want to place the adjustable proportioning valve for the rear. I would like to have it along side the seat, but drilling more holes in the cab floor and trying to keep them sealed up against the weather is not something that I'm looking forward to doing.

So I'm going to play around with it today.... location that is.

 
  #641  
Old 01-26-2011, 02:16 PM
ChaseTruck754's Avatar
ChaseTruck754
ChaseTruck754 is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 6,981
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
I messed with that for a while. While I haven't installed it yet I think I'm going to use the factory hole for the dual tank selector since I will only have 1 tank in the truck. It's not as tucked up close to the seat as I would want, but like you I really don't want to drill any more holes in the thing and the **** fits though the large hole so it "works"...
 
  #642  
Old 01-27-2011, 11:20 AM
HRDROKN's Avatar
HRDROKN
HRDROKN is offline
Tuned

Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vacaville, California
Posts: 401
Received 6 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754
I messed with that for a while. While I haven't installed it yet I think I'm going to use the factory hole for the dual tank selector since I will only have 1 tank in the truck. It's not as tucked up close to the seat as I would want, but like you I really don't want to drill any more holes in the thing and the **** fits though the large hole so it "works"...

That's one of the holes I welded up.... LOL. And still after messing with under dash locations, I ended up going here with it anyway....





 
  #643  
Old 01-27-2011, 01:00 PM
ChaseTruck754's Avatar
ChaseTruck754
ChaseTruck754 is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 6,981
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
How you plan on sealing it? The hole in the cab that is?

It's kind of hard to see here, but I am using the wilwood prop. valve.


This is where I was thinking about mounting it, and it is easily accesible here. After thinking about it a bit I figured I may just use the hole for the tank select valve as just the **** on the prop. valve would fit though and I can keep the brake lines out of the cab. The issue here then woild be sealing the cab. I was thiking about making a rubber sheet type "gasket" for that. The other issue with that spot is that tank selector valve location puts it in a spot that might be easy to kick - which could be bad.

So maybe I will weld up the tank selector valve hole after all. Who knows at this point - so many dang decisions to make and I go back and forth on every single one!
 
  #644  
Old 01-27-2011, 01:37 PM
HRDROKN's Avatar
HRDROKN
HRDROKN is offline
Tuned

Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vacaville, California
Posts: 401
Received 6 Likes on 3 Posts
I had been tossing around the idea of using some dynamat over the line-x for increased sound dampning. And if I cut into the passenger side floor, I will need to add or patch anyway and I think long term I want to add carpet. So I could use a dynamat and undercoat the bottom side for a seal... or rivet in a plate to close the hole and undercoat. Can't weld anything without burning the line-x so I'm kinda limited... unless I think that line-x could patch my mods? So I'll figure it out after she gets on the road... which will happen this year!

I hate making goals....
 
  #645  
Old 02-03-2011, 11:02 PM
HRDROKN's Avatar
HRDROKN
HRDROKN is offline
Tuned

Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vacaville, California
Posts: 401
Received 6 Likes on 3 Posts
Fed up with the roll bar... so it's getting **** caned, can't weld the way I want due to that line-x and I'm tired of waisting any more time with it!

Still waiting for some fittings to finish up the brake lines and some 4" exhaust pipe to clear the bellhousing.

Started working on wiring up this pig...




 


Quick Reply: 1969 Ford Cummins Crew Cab Conversion



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:30 PM.