Who makes nice crate engines for the I-6 with a good warrantee??

Got a link?

 

The best rebuilder that I've seen in the interent is Jasper engines. I have never dealt with them, but their warranty is impressive.
http://www.jasperengines.com/

 

Just FYI,

I called Jasper, and they said they could provide one of their rebuilt 300cid inlines for $1620.

 

I have never dealt with these guys, nor do I know anyone who has dealt with these guys, but check this link out. Seems like a good warrenty:

http://216.157.36.177/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_main.html?catid=119&sid=1AlF2z0WY2go1vJ-33102006104.3d

 

AND, about $600 cheaper than a Jasper.

It also looks like these are the NAPA?CarQuest engines sold in the retail outlets.

Thanks!

 

>Just FYI,
>
>I called Jasper, and they said they could provide one of
>their rebuilt 300cid inlines for $1620.

Rebuilt implys stock, but I wonder what they would charge for various performance and/or durability mods beyond stock spec.


INLINE SIX POWER! '95 F150 XL
300 Cubic Inches of Low RPM Truck Torque! And twin-I-beams too!
"Drive a stick young man! There'll be time for automatics when you're old and unable."

 

Just a word on the S&S rebuilt engines that I saw a link for here:
*Find another supplier*
August 2001 I bought a remanufactured 302 long block from S&S, via a local retailer (National auto parts-Longview, WA). I liked their 70K mile warranty and bought the engine, even though there were less expensive rebuilds available.This application was an '89 Bronco XLT, EEC 4, 302.
We took pains during the installation to do a good job. My father-in-law is a mechanic by trade. We did the swap in his shop under what I would consider "ideal" conditions. Anything that was even questionable from the old engine was replaced. Water pump was a new (not rebuilt), as was the starter and both exhaust manifolds.New exhaust and intake bolts were obtained from FoMoCo. Fuel injectors were replaced, all parts were spotlessly cleaned before installation onto the new longblock assembly and all bolts on the new assembly were checked for proper torque.It went in great and fired right up. I had the truck checked at the local emissions station (a warranty requirement!)and submitted the appropriate paperwork to S&S. It ran every bit as good (emission-wise) as my 94 Eddie Bauer, throwing very similar emissions numbers for CO, nox and HC.
After a break-in period of approx. 1500 miles, I changed the oil over to synthetic 10-30 and platinum plugs.
The engine ran like a top for the next 8500 miles. I am meticulous about my trucks; engine oil was changed faithfully (some times @ 1500 miles, if the primary useage was in-town.
At just under 10K miles, the engine began to "tick". We determined the problem to be on cylinder #5.
Realizing that these things can happen, we pulled the engine and sent it back to S&S for repair or replacement, per their warranty.
They replied after a couple weeks and told me the warranty was void, due to "lubrication failure", even enclosing pictures of destroyed crank and main bearings. They graciously offered to repair the engine for a mere $450, but no further warranty was available. I called them and asked if the oil pump was tested (THEIR sub-assembly, shipped with the engine)and whether or not the oil galleries had been checked for obstructions. They said no and that a teardown of the oil pump by the manufacturer "dyna-gear" would need to be done by that vendor.
Their initial letter also indicated that if no action was taken by me in 30 days, that the engine would be "disposed of" by them. I was assured during my conversation with them that the engine was fine at their shop, pending the outcome of the oil pump teardown report.
I called them once a week, seeking any news. This went on for a period of 4 months, when finally out of frustration, I contacted the BBB and the Wa state attorney generals office, for resolution.
I never got any word from them. I finally recieved word from the ATTY. GEN that the oil pump teardown was done and determined to NOT be the cause of failure. S&S had contacted THEM but apparently didn't feel the need to contact me. S&S's letter to the AG also indicated that the engine had been "disposed of".
I immediately called S&S and asked them for my core back.
The guy I spoke with indicated the engine assembly was there and that they'd return it to the parts house where I bought it.
They never did.
THI IS NOT OVER WITH. I have spoken with an attorney, who has referred me to small-claims court. I have also contacted other vendors who supply their engines. The vendor I bought mine from told me he had several other warranty issues on-going with S&S and were experiencing similar results as me. They have since pulled S&S's catalogs from their counter and will no longer seel their product.
The Spokane BBB knows who S&S is as well. GUESS WHY! Warranty disputes!

Moral of this story:
1.These people are incredibly BAD to do business with. DON'T trust them or their wonderful warranty.
2. S&S talks a good warranty,which is easy to do but talk is cheap; they don't *back* S#!T.
3.They could offer a 100K warranty; as long as they don't HONOR their warranty (common practice), it doesn't cost 'em a dime.
4. S&S rebuilds under different names; if it's coming from Spokane with their trademark 70K warranty, odds are it could be them doing the "remanufacturing".

Sorry for the novel but you guys looking for a good reliable rebuild (like I am now) need to know/hear this stuff.

Thanks for reading,
Randy Goolsby
La Center, WA
98 F150 STX
94 Bronco EB
89 Bronco XLT
96 Bronco XL (son's)

 

dam sorry to hear that rockinghorse

 

I have delt with many crate engines and rebuilders. I can say with complete confidence that the only crate engine I would buy will come from a Ford dealer. Yes, it will cost a little more, but they actually are worth it. I know of numerous AZ/Oreilly/NAPA/PepPoys/etc. engines that were assembled incorrectly at the factory and this led to engine failure. In one case the rod bearings were found laying in the bottom of the oil pan upon disassembly. Then the warranty was void because the oil pan was removed. A long block would be a better situation because you can see most of the vital components without taking any covers off. In my opinion, the best option is to purchase an engine at the salvage yard and take it to a local rebuilder with a good reputation. The cost of this is probably somewhere between the parts store engine and the Ford engine. Also, a local rebuilder can easily work around your needs for the engine. If you want a larger cam or different pistons in a crate motor, it costs a lot more because it can't be done on an assembly line. A local rebuilder can just substitute the parts in place of what would normally be used. Most local rebuilders value their reputation and will take care of you instead of risking the harm to their image.

 

I used to deal with Engine Connection, now out of business, and for a good reason. I put a 2.2l engine in a little Cavalier, and while backing out of the shop, it pitched a rod. Engine #2 arrived about a week later, with similar results, but it happened on the test drive. Finally, on engine #3, I popped the oil pan off to check the rods, and while tightening down the #2 rod cap, the rod broke! The area that retained the rod bolt just fell off. Aparently, the bolts had been severly overtightened, causing the failure. My boss called them, and they were closed. A week later, they were gone. I never got my pay out of the job, and he never got his money back. Why not just rebuild the engine yourself? You will probably have better luck.

Jared

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 17-Nov-02 AT 00:12 AM (EST)]I agree with SilverStreak and the ones who say DIY.....

Find a local machine shop and go for it!! a MUCH MUCHbetter deal than you will find in any crate!!! Except maybe FORD...

ftwfred









1989 F-150 4x2
4.9 Litre 6 Cyl.
4 Speed 3.08
No A/C

 

Thanks for sharing all of that. That's a nightmare. To save time and money, I've always liked the idea of buying a short block, but I think I'll explore the rebuild myself when the time comes. I've heard you get a better balanced engine when you stick with your old stuff and just get it machined.

 

I can do an HP build on a 300-6 for around $1000. It only comes with a warranty if you break it, lol. Break it, I'll build you another one. E-mail me for specs and specifics. I specialize in these engines, so I know that HP to a 300 is not the same as HP to a 302.

Jared

 

My machinest charged me $1400 for a complete rebuild of my motor (9:1 270). He also had a spare Offy DP and a Hooker Header from a previous truck pulling motor he did. Got those for $300. Definately go with your local rebuilder.....


-=Whittey=-

 

I thought my re-build was a little pricy, untill I started reading some of the posts here.
This is what $1025. bought me:
Block bored .030 over, line bored mains, decked block, cam bearings. ALL SURFACES/PASSEGES CLEANED!,freeze plugs installed. Head re-surfaced (deck and manifold), new guides, and assembled with new valves. Master OH kit, w/ "RV" cam and steel gear pressed on, forged pistons, and Melling HV pump. Crankshaft radiused and turned. Everything magnafluxed, rods were re-sized, checked for straightness, and pistons fitted. Overall a super job.
I've been out of the loop for some time, but It's still cheaper than re-mfg.