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i just finished installing a rebiult C6 in my truck and it always seems to want to go forward. i lifted the rear tires off the ground and shifted between gears.
in park the tires would twist ahead a bit then lock
in reverse it would do the same thing as park (almost like it was engaged in drive and reverse)
in neutral it would act like it was in drive
and in 3 2 and 1 it seems to act normal
is the problem something i did wrong when i installed it or is it something the shop did wrong during the rebiuld?
sounds normal to me. on pretty much all my trucks i can jack up the rear put in gear and the tires would spin freely.
but if your driving and you come to a stop and its fighing to go forward while you have the brake down then thats trouble.
Mitch
Stupid question, but if its trying to pull forward with the brake on, what is the RPM that the motor is turning at? It should be around 650 RPM, and have a tendency to want to go if you take your foot off the brake, but not take off like you were racing. When in the air, your tires will still turn while in neutral.
The thing that seems odd is reverse. When you put it into reverse, the tires should start spinning relatively quickly.
When it is on the ground, what does your truck do and how does it act??
Keep in mind that when you re-assemble a C6, it is critical to put in the spacers, bearings, and ever other little chingadera back the exact way it came out. If not, you will have problems. I had a buddy of mine who was going to one of them auto tech schools helping me tear apart and inspect the trans that came out of my RV. He was not paying much attention, and was putting stuff in where it went, but was not checking to see which way it was supposed to go. Needless to say, I stopped him from putting the trans together incorrectly, and it either burning up, or something not working. Yes it is that important to maintain the correct orientation of parts.
it was doing pretty much the same thing when it was on the ground i just lifted the back end up so i could try and play around with the linkage whithout getting run over. even when its on the ground in neutral it still moves ahead. i had a buddy hold the brake down while i went underneath and shifted through the gears on the side of the transmission and it still does the same stuff, so it's not the linkage. im thinking its a warranty job
For some reason I thought you did the rebuild, not installing a unit done somebody else. Call them up and tell your problem, and make them tow your truck to the shop. Don't drive it, make them tow it and foot the bill.
Chances are they will tell you to go pound sand, but if you re-iterate that it is not an installation problem that is causing your truck to have forward power in N, D, 2 and 1, not from the column, but the actual shift linkage, with the shift linkage disconnected, and the vacuum modulator receiving manifold vacuum. Call them and see what they say. If you paid them recently with a check, offer to stop payment to help convince them to make it right.
This might be obvious, but did you drop the valve body? Does the shift lever allow free movement between P and 1? I pulled my valve body to put in a shift kit a while back and when I put it back in, I didn't put the shift linkage into the guide on the body and it had symptoms you described. Another possibility is a missing checkballs or springs in the body itself if it was opened up during the rebuild.
Drive or tow it to them and ask them to show you what's wrong with the linkage on the OUTSIDE of the transmission.
If a trans shop did the work, I do not recommend opening up the pan and fooling with the internals. If you mess with it, whether or not you broke anything, you own all of the problems now.
i'm not to knowledgable when it comes to the inside of an automatic transmission and they plobably wouldn't like it to much if i did that. i'll mention the internal linkage problem to them and see what they figure. they're starting on it monday so i should have it back and installed next weekend, hopefully and working proper
I would not suggest you trying to tell them their job, stick with the facts. A test drive, fluid check, vacuum check at the modulator,and an external linkage check are going to be the first thing they do. Once they rule out any installer error, then they will drop the pan.
they asked my to take it out and take it to them cause it's a couple hour drive and i don't want to drive it through the city when it's not working proper so they won't be able to take it for a test drive
Did you ask them who is going to pay for your time to re-do their screwup? If I had the ability to do so, I would take the entire truck to them. You can rent a trailer for about $50 a day(local) Have a buddy haul it there for you, let the shop deal with fixing it inside the truck, or take it out and re-install it. They probably will give you the line of "You brought the trans to us in your trunk, and left with it that way, that is the only way we are going to work on it" speech. It is their mistake, leave them the truck for them to figure the problem out. I am not a trans expert, but I think that the valve body (as previously mentioned in this thread) or something closely related to it is the problem. Unless they have a dyno to test your transmission, you have NO clue if the unit that you will be re-installing is going to work correctly. This is a C6 transmission, not a finicky POS AXOD, there is NO excuse why this thing couldn't have been built correctly the first time. This is one of the easiest transmissions to rebuild that is still commonly on the road today.