When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I will be tearing into my 5.0 efi tomorrow for the first time. I have never worked on a efi before and was wondering about the gaskets. I assume you do not have to use gasket sealant on the gaskets is this correct ? Any heads up on what to look out for or is it pretty cut and dry. The only reason I am having to do this is to get at the valve cover gaskets and the crossover tube that goes from one side of the head to the other to repalce a rusted out fitting on the crossover pipe where the smog pump hose goes on at.
I had an 88 F150 when I was stationed in Alaska and had to pull the upper intake for valve cover gaskets too. The one major hangup I had was with the torx head bolt on the underside of the manifold. It is a size 40 torx head, but they only came in 3/8 drive for ratchet sets. A 3/8 extension would not fit through the space in the upper manifold to access this bolt. I ended up finding the propper torx head for a nut-driver handle that happend to be a 1/4" hex- so I got the 1/4' socket, on 1/4" drive extension and ratchet to get it out. Once I had the right tools it took me less than two minutes to have that bolt out...this was after three hours of trying other ways. I hope you didn't run into this problem, or you see this before spending three hours on it.
well I did have a problem with the screw you were refering to. I got it out after some grinding on a 3/8 socket. Also a few other questions came up as I was doing it. The inside of the plenum and the lower intake were wet with fuel. My air filter was pretty dirty as well. question is I have noticed my fuel milage has seemed to be bad lately, will the vaccum check valve with the rusted off fitting causing a vaccum leak and the real dirty air filter cause this wet condition in the intake and be the reason for the bad fuel milage and iratic idle. On a up note the truck is running good now and the idle is steady and it does not die any more at the initial start up where it idles up until warm up and when it idles back down it used to die but not now. anyway thanks for the help.
I tried to post this on Saturday morning before the site died...it just came back on 5 minutes ago....so much for only being down for a couple of hours.
I worked around the torx head issue by welding a T40 bit to the end of a 15" length of threaded rod, then welded a cross bar on the other end. Net result was a large t-handled torx wrench. Worked like a charm a really simplified the job. It's a bit late for your job, but hopefully someone will find this info helpful.
I will be tearing into my 5.0 efi tomorrow for the first time. I have never worked on a efi before and was wondering about the gaskets. I assume you do not have to use gasket sealant on the gaskets is this correct ? Any heads up on what to look out for or is it pretty cut and dry. The only reason I am having to do this is to get at the valve cover gaskets and the crossover tube that goes from one side of the head to the other to repalce a rusted out fitting on the crossover pipe where the smog pump hose goes on at.
I realized recently that this fitting is rusted out on mine too. Did you just replace it, and what's it called anyways? Did this fix your idling problem? Did you have to remove the upper intake to get to this rusted fitting? THANKS!!
did greatly improve the idle of my truck. I can now go out in the morning and just fire it right up. it will idle down and search a little but will not die now. Truck is running pretty well I must say.