Well not exactly, yes there is the EGR Throttle Plate installed on "some" 04 SD trucks. The 03 & 04 (with 03 motors) have the EGR Throttle Plate housing but do not contain an EGR Throttle Plate. Starting with 04 engines built on or after 09/29/2003 the EGR Throttle Plates where installed but not all of them where functioning, many of the connectors had no electrical contacts. This was a short lived installation by FMC and starting with the 05 motors (07/19/04) there was no EGR Throttle Plate housing installed on the motor. The 05 & later motors just have an intake elbow, these can be swapped onto an 03 or 04 motor (note CA emissions trucks that contain active EGR Throttle Plates may set a CEL if it is disconnected).

Now back to the OP original post and questions. The OP specifically asked about installing an "Air Aid" throttle body spacer, they are snake oil.
The "AirAid" Throttle Body Spacer is called the "Poweraid" and retails for $129.95, its sole purpose is to make the air swirl for better combustion before it enters the intake manifold.
www.airaid.com/spacers_learn_more.asp
www.airaid.com/400-601_ford.asp
www.airaid.com/400-602_ford.asp
www.airaid.com/pdf/400-601.pdf

These are available for 03-07 6.0 PSD and install between the cold CAC tube and the intake elbow. They are also available for 02-04 Duramax.

Actually a downpipe greater than 3.5-inch on a stock or lightly modded 6.0 does hurt performance. Increasing the exhaust size raises the power band. By raising the power band, low end grunt at low rpms is shifted higher up in the RPM band, this means you have to get the RPM's higher to achieve the same Hp & Torque numbers that were achieved at a lower RPM with the stock or 3.5-inch max downpipe. Raising the powerband is not a desirable feature in trucks pulling heavy loads or 4wheeling in rough conditions.

 

Ya thats why i was asking you guys, i was suspicious that "swirling air" could have any impact on my 6.0 whatsoever. And as for the EGR - it will definitely be coming off! Undecided on the throttle plate though. If i take off the EGR i dont have to take off the throttle plate as well...Correct?

 

JIMMENY CRICKETS ALICE!!You know i hate to admit it but i asked the same question to Matt about the swirling air aaaaaaannnnnd he asked me if i was serious....I told him no .......but i lied
just had to get that off my chest

 

hahaha!! i just got off the phone with matt, gonna order an SCT! im pumped

 

Just installed my Pyrometer today. Running stock tunes, what is the highest reading should I be getting? I ran it really hard and barely hit 1100. With a programmer how high should it get?

 

EGT will vary depending on load (towing or not), outside air temps and how hard you are on the go pedal. For sustained driving and towing try to keep it at 1250 or less, you can hit 13-1600 for a very short burst but do not make a habit of it (BTW these are pre-turbo temps).

With stock configuration you are seeing about the max you will see unless you hook up a trailer and drive in the desert Southwest, then you have to keep an eye on the EGT. Now if you install a tuner, some programs will get you in to high EGT sooner than others. The right foot ultimately controlls the EGT temps you will see.

 

im hitting around 16-1700 everytime that i get on it for more than 4 seconds but it dont get any higher through a 1/4, i think those temps are suitable for at least a 1/4 but dont push it past that

 

okay yes i know. i have an 04. we all have a throttle body with or without a functioning elec connection, and with or without an actual valve. we both on the same page then. i was not aware of this poweraid spacer you guys were talking about and thought it was some sort of thing to delete the throttle body and valve on our earlier motors, my mistake, i know you are usually right on the money when it comes to stuff like this. a misunderstanding again.

as far as the downpipe, you will notice my post states lightly modified, i DO AGREE with you that for a stock vehicle this will cause a little loss of power in the low end. again we agree. i mentioned a lightly modified, but i guess our versions of lightly modified may be different. maybe you mean a truck with simply an intake and larger exhaust. i still consider a vehicle with intake/exhaust/programmer making only around 400-450 HP to be lightly modified.

 

Hi, and welcome first off.

I would recomend the Volant cold air intake system. I have it on my 2006 F-250 6.0L and it runs great and allows the turbo to get air quicker and cooler. The factory one is to resictive. It's all hiep about having to leave the factory filter on. It just reduces the airflow. I also run a acufab intake elbow which increases the rate of flow into the intake.
hope this helps.

 

Truckdawg

All the "HYPE" is by the A/M air filter companies that claim the stock filter is just too restrictive because they wanna sell their product. Cat uses the same filter on a 15L so how is it too restrictive? 2.5 times the displacement same filter!!! I've been running the stocker with a 65mm wheel for months now with no problems--it hasn't even moved the filter minder in 30K miles.

 

analog guages,spartan sct III, exhaust. leave the stock filter

pretty much the other guys have summed it up air filtyer is a waste of money and will hurt mileage and dust you engine.

 

thanks for the info, thats good to know