I'm just lookin for some opinions on which way to go for my carb that will be put on top of my 390.

 

Phaffy, definatly go with the carter. The edelbrock is a cheap imitation of the carter, and the original in this case is better. Edelbrock seems to be having some casting problems. I have seen a new carb out of the box that had almost no fuel on one side. Or you could ask Proeliator what he thinks of his. DF

 

If you HAVE to have one of those go with the Carter. But I'd suggest a Holley. I just replaced my Holly with an Edelbrock and its a roaring piece of crap. Even with the calibration kit I can't get my truck to run right. Pop the old Holley on and it runs fine. I'm trying to get my money back...I wish I'd never even tried the POS. Boy, I could really go on with this...

If your knuckles ain't bleeding you did something wrong.

'72 F-250 "Hi-Boy" 4x4, Dana 60/HD44, FE428 @ 400 ponies , 4-speed, custom suspension w lift, mud on black.

 

It's funny how miss-information get started! The Edelbrock and Carter carbs are IDENTICAL! Both are made by the same manufacturer, (in Italy), and accept all the same parts. Get whichever one you can buy for less. (usually the Edelbrock). These are usually perfect out of the box, but they come with a great tuning manuel if necessary. As for the suggestion to replace or rebuild the Holly! Everybody should own a Holly at least once in their lives! How else can you really apriciate the joy of walking!

 

I bought a Carter 9755 and am having a hard time getting it dialed in.

It has a bad stumble off-idle and it wants to starve at high rpm. It's already in the top hole and has a .035 shooter. I am feeding abour 400-415 hp though with a very aggressive camshaft engine. Also, is it unusual that when you turn the idle screws all the way in it keeps running as if nothing happened? You can turn them out and smell it get rich and it will eventually roll, but you cant lean it down enough to get a miss. I even tried backing the idle screw down and doing it again. Odd. No external vacuam leaks, its a new phenolic spacer and gaskets, and I tighterned it very carefully down with just my wrist, like a valve cover.

The mid-range can't be beat, I put the pink springs in and its done.

 

Is the idle speed screw open enough that it's pulling fuel from the main circuits instead of the idle circuits? or is that just a holley thing

 

The Holley bashing is getting a bit old. We all have our preference and thats fine. I just think its a bit odd that several people are buying new edels and having problems with them. I do agree that the edels are easier to work on, and maybe I just got a bum one...but you can keep them. I knew the carter and edels were the same carb, but I thought they were made by different manufaturers. Italy you say? I didn't know that...

If your knuckles ain't bleeding you did something wrong.

'72 F-250 "Hi-Boy" 4x4, Dana 60/HD44, FE428 @ 400 ponies , 4-speed, custom suspension w lift, mud on black.

 

The edelbrock and carter AFB are supposed to be identicle, but they aren't. Carters are made here in the usa and the E-brock copys are made by Weber in Italy. Edelbrock has also started making copies of the rochester quadrajet. In both cases I think you are better off going with the original manufacturer. Weber, who makes the edelbrock stuff, makes some really cool 48mm IDA two barrels, which can be mounted in sets of four on an idividual runner manifold and work great. Inglese induction sells complete setups for the FE for 2500 or more. But if you want an ordinary 4 barrel, they haven't figured that out so well yet. If you want edelbrock parts, stick to what they do best, intake manifolds. DF

 

The casting has a big old Weber insignia on the side. I have a 1406 that's going on a 302, and a Carter 9755. They are the same in every way that I can see, except of course the 9755 is a 750, the 1406 is a 600.

 

I tried moving the link to the middle hole from the top one and it actually helped a little. This is backward from from what conventional tuning would say. I got to looking and realized that the lower arm on the throttle linkage was bent a little up and the L in the link at the bottom was bent a little up also. Maybe it got dropped or something who knows? Anyway, the top hole gives a bigger shot over all and it is faster, ONCE IT STARTS. This is the problem, my application wants fuel when the throttle is cracked, the center hole is better in this case but didn't deliver enough fuel.

So I bent the lower tang and the pump link to about what I figured they should be and now have a nice immediate pump shot of sufficient volume to kill the stumble.

Another wierd thing happened when I got on it this morning. I kicked in the secondaries and it died. I looked down and saw that the choke was out. I did a little investigating and found that the secondary lockout was locked in and if you pushed the pedal enough they would open partially but would close the choke completely. The culprit was the link that runs to the fast idle to the choke shaft was set too long allowing the linkage to over-center and lock the tang. I bent the link shorter to stop the over-centering and it seems to be OK.

So much for bolt-on performance!

 

>Also, is it unusual that
>when you turn the idle
>screws all the way in
>it keeps running as if
>nothing happened? You can
>turn them out and smell
>it get rich and it
>will eventually roll, but you
>cant lean it down enough

My friend has a carter afb on a chevy and it does this exact same thing the screws were all the way in and the car was running smooth. I thought it was wierd. Eric

 

If Carter made the original and Edelbrocks are made by Weber, why does my Carter have the Weber "W" on the side?

Dave
http://www.davesmonsterpit.com/dmp31.gif

 

I had no idea that carter did not make their own stuff anymore. When did this happen ? I wonder if those who have webers would be better off returning them and hunting for a used carter, a real one. Now that y'all have me worried, I am going to very closely examine my thermoquad. DF

 

Around 5 to 10 years Carter went bankrupt. At that time a lot of the origanal molds walked off with some of the employees that were let go. Weber bought Carter but with a lot of the molds gone they had to do a lot of reverse engineering to recreat the molds. To indetify if a used Carte AFB carb is old or new Carter look for a 'W' inside a circle cast into the body of the carb. It's about 3/16" in dia. This story was told to me buy a trusted parts counterman some years ago. To quote Ripley "believe it or not".
Eric


Proud owner of a '73 F-250 4x4 High Boy, 460 V8, NP435, NP205
And a '68 Bronco 289 v8 , NP435 , Dana 20

 

A buddy of mine has an old Carter, and it doesnt have any Weber markings. To me it looks the same, except it has a lot more vacuum ports and stuff. I think it came off of some sort of car that had it from the factory.

Dave
http://www.davesmonsterpit.com/dmp31.gif