When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Guys. I've had FE motors for more years than I care to tell, but I've never developed a method for installing the rear main seals consistantly. Some leak, some don't. Any suggestions to help me out?
Skip4274
4everFord
I agree, I have not had any problems with the seals leaking, although I must admit that it is not a very good design. It gets old having to disassemble the engine just to change a seal. I also have an 88' 300 in-line six once I remove the flywheel I can remove the old seal and replace it in about three minutes.
Try using the Felpro rear main seal set if you haven't already, Instead of that stupid rope seal, they use rubber, which is then snugged up and held in place with heavy metal wire of some sort. Make sure you are installing the crank seal (We called 'em dynamic seals in the Navy) with the lip and pocket facing the internals of the engine--the pressure against the seal will create a tighter seal this way. Also put a little bit of good gasket sealer between the block and the main bearing cap.
I've done the above with my 390 and have no problems with leaks. Main thing to do is get that Felpro kit; other stuff is pretty basic. Getting away from the rope seals also gets you away from not getting them in far enough or having a little poke out, which then ruins the oil pan seal.
Thanks guys. I just got the new seal kit with the rubber seals and I see the difference. I had a gasket set with the old type seals and I hate those things. Any tricks to putting the "nails" in?
Thanks,
Skip
On your seal installation I always made sure I had a 1/4 inch on the bottom of one side and a 1/4 inch above on the other side
( this is of the seal if you are using two halves.)This way you should not get leaks where the bearing cap is split between the block and cap.
HAAKEYE snow fever for sledding but does like his trucks. Ran a 13.049 at 103 mph in my 1970 F100 ( Ground Pownder) 428scj 2/4 4speed. Yahoo messanger (haakeye50)
I hope I have followed this correctly, and I hope that I am not too late. You got me a bit concerned when you asked about putting the nails in. The old type of seals were like a peice of rope and they needed the "nail" or pin to stop the rope from turning. The newer types of seals that I have seem are rubber and unless I am totally mistaken you DO NOT use the "nail" or you will end up with yet another leak. The pin should just pull out with a set of pliers. The is what was required when working on an old 200 6 in a Mustang. If I am mistaken, I am certain some one will be kind enough to correct me.