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Head Gaskets

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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 08:51 PM
  #1  
built tough's Avatar
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Smile Head Gaskets

I was jst wondering if any1 knows when they redo the gaskets if they upgrade them some how or if they will just keep going after and after are truck has 110000km so ant info would be appreciated THANKS
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 08:53 PM
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what year is your truck / engine ? i believe ford has a better factory HG than the early 03-04 models came with. someone chime in if you know for sure.

if you put in head studs you will be fine with stock gaskets, as it's the factory "torque to yield" head bolts that are the culprit.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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5yr/100K miles (something like 160K km's) warranty. The stock headgaskets are good. It's the bolts and warped heads that make it puke. They won't just redo the gaskets unless you have some kind of a problem.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 09:11 PM
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its a 2004 and they r redoing them both and i was wonder ing if they have fixed the old prob thanks alot though
 
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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Make sure you ask them to check the heads for warping. I forget what the allowed spec is. .008 or .005? If they are re-doing them under warranty ask them if you purchase the ARP head studs, will they install them instead of the OEMs? You will be far better off.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 06:19 PM
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The allowable tolerance is less than .002 which IMHO is too much. .008/9 is the most you can machine off and still use the head.

Riggz is correct about the ARP headstuds. If you can get the dealer to allow you to purchase them and they install them you WILL be much better off.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 10:27 PM
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I am wondering if I can replace the stock head bolts with the ARP studs with out removing the heads and replacing the head gaskets? My truck is a 2005 with 28K miles.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by hangon2me
I am wondering if I can replace the stock head bolts with the ARP studs with out removing the heads and replacing the head gaskets? My truck is a 2005 with 28K miles.
It is highly recommended NOT to go the route you are asking. It isn't safe to untorq and then retorq one stud at a time. You could warp or crack a head by doing it that way. On top of that, you won't have enough clearance to get the rear bolts out or get the new studs back in unless you raise the cab a little. If you are going through the trouble to raise the cab, do the whole job the right way or it may cost you more than you are bargaining for.
 

Last edited by F250tuff; Oct 11, 2007 at 10:48 PM.
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