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I recently posted on my rear wheel cylinders leaking after replacing them three times within a short time. I pulled off the wheels and brake drums and the cylinders are dry and clean. What the heck? I looked at the inner side of my wheels and there definitely is oil on them. But the oil looks more like gear oil and smells like it too. So.... Axle seals? I looked at that to see if I see them leaking. Dry! There was oil on the backing plates near the adjustment slot and a drop of gear oil on the bottom of the backing plate but everything else was clean and dry even around the axle plate, etc . Don't know where the oil is coming from... but I know it's gear oil. Anyways, I cleaned up the area of oil on the brakes and rims and put it back together. Will drive it around and check it later. At least I know it's not the brakes. If you guys see Albuq, tell him I like my drum brakes again.
I am betting on axle seals, there is an old trick that involves drying everything off and then spraying it all with talcum powder, the leak will leave a definite trail, good luck
Any chance you overfilled the rear end, OR had it out on a high speed run and the vent tube is plugged?
Both conditions can push liquid past even good seals imho.
I'm going to replace the axle seals anyways, but I will check the oil level in the rear end. I've pulled the axle twice now to change third members in the rear end, so too high of oil level may be a factor, and a damage axle seal could be the other from pulling the axles. I'm just curious where the oil is coming from, because I can't see anything that appears wet or leaking oil? Maybe I ran over a bottle of gear oil???? LOL....
Hey if its a 9" , as im currently working with mine as we talk , what about a blocked breather tube? mine was blocked with crap and there was no way the pressure would be relieved , hence it must find a easier way out , Axle seals??
I bought some new seals from DC. They were too small and did not fit snugly. Now I'm doing it again with better ones I bought from Concourse in Carson City. Remember, spring side goes inside. Jag
I don't think it's the breather tube because I only have a leak on one side, but I'm going to check it today, because I noticed the pinion seal on the yoke has a very slight leak now and its new also? I wonder if the dog in our neighborhood can reach under to the driveshaft???? What are you guys using to remove and replace the axle seals? I use to have a cool tool that you would put the seal on and simply tap it into place without damaging the metal or rubber on the seal. I can't find it anymore and haven't seen any for sale in auto parts, etc. Probably loaned it to friend at one point and never returned it.
To get em out, I use a small pry bar with a hooked end. To install, I've been using a 2" diameter length of schedule 40 PVC and a hammer. I hope somebody else has a better way. I tried the install tool from harber freight, but it was way too flimsy. good luck, Jack
When it comes to seals an old purpose bent extra heavy screwdriver gets um out for me. A little creative thinking and a torch and you'd be surprised what kinda tools you can make.
On the install I use a bit of half-inch plate steel cut in a circle. I have a hole-saw set from half inch to about four inches. I use a hole-saw that is about a quarter inch bigger than the seal on a half-inch plate.
Then I take the "hole" and clamp it in the drill press and drill the pilot hole to half inch. Then get a half inch bolt about 6 inches long and a couple nuts and voila! Ya got yourself a seal driver tool!
Scott
P.S. Works great for driving in bearing races too ;-)
Last edited by Cyruscosmo; Oct 11, 2007 at 04:17 PM.
Reason: forgot a part
Another way to destroy an otherwise useful screwdriver would be to weld a small sheet metal screw to the end screw it into the seal and tug the seal out. For seal installation use a socket or the correct diameter (easy if you have a 3/4' drive set kicking around) install a short extension into the socket and then give it a tap with a hammer until the seal is seated. Another one I can add to the cool tips sticky....
I use a race driver I got from Snap-on. You can buy the same thing at Schucks/Checker/Al's ect. But I flip the driver over and have the flat side to drive in.
But I have another question? when you change the pinion seal how tight do you go on the nut? isn't the pinion depth and crush sleeve used in the pinion shaft? Kurt G Y-blocks rule.
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