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I just bought a beater 71 f600 dumptruck to use around my farm.I think it has a very tired 360 coupled to a 4 sp with PTO code "A' trans. I want to keep my investment low is it better to rebuild the 360 or could I find a junkyard low miles 390. What motors will bolt to this transmission. Thanks for any help. Kip
It has been my experience that fe's aren't cheap to rebuild. depending on of couse what all you do to it. I priced several FE's from salvage yards and they were all in the range of $250-$300 for a running engine. for 390's mostly. the only thing about that is that there is no garantee that the engine you buy is much better than the one you are replacing. You would probably be better off to rebuild the one you have. Maybee just convert it to a 390.
Assuming that the cylinder walls are in good shape, the valve train is in ship-shape, and the rod and main journals aren't scored (or better yet, the bearings are still in spec), you should be able to rebuild this engine for $200 or less if you are willing to do the labor yourself. If an engine is in reasonable shape, you aren't planning on a performance rebuild, and you have proper tools like a cylinder hone, ring compressor, and so on, then you don't need to take it to a machine shop.
You might want to reflect on what you consider a tired engine. Does it leak or burn oil, or is it just lame? Rebuilds to stock specs usually don't grant a huge increase in performance. Conversely, an engine can be on its last legs and still idle smooth and pull like a champ.
I recently overhauled the 390 in my Galaxie, and it's every bit as fast as it was before I rebuilt it but not a bit faster. Doesn't burn or leak oil, though, and I managed to solve that lifter rattle problem.
I just bought a beater 71 f600 dumptruck to use around my farm.I think it has a very tired 360 coupled to a 4 sp with PTO code "A' trans. I want to keep my investment low is it better to rebuild the 360 or could I find a junkyard low miles 390. What motors will bolt to this transmission. Thanks for any help. Kip
If the engine mounts by the front of the engine instead of by the side, and has a oil line coming off the side of it for a air cmopressor, which I believe the F600 does, you can only use the heavier duty FT engine block, BUT, you can put on FE heads and a intake for a little bit more pep and any FE cam will work.
As for what engines will bolt up to your bellhousing:
330,332,352,360,361,390,391,406,410,427,428. When you're out junkyarding, look at where the intake manifold and head contact each other. On FT/FE blocks, the valve cover covers all of the head and part of the intake manifold.
If you decide to replace your motor, you will mostly run across the 390--good motor. Ones to avoid for your app would probably be anything less than 360 and the 406 and 427. Don't worry abou the last two, you're not going to want to pay what the seller is asking (or even anywhere close) just to put one in your dump truck. The 428 would be a good choice because it's big and torquey, but it is also becoming a sought-after motor, so you might not want to spring for it, either. The 2v 390 would be a good tradeoff in power, production numbers, and low cost.
If you have a 330, 361, or 391, it's best to replace it with another one of these. They are fairly common but not especially.
Best bet is to tear the sucker down and rebuild it yourself, which is not really that hard as long as you know when you get in over your head.
I also have an F600 but it is a 76. If your truck has the original engine I would be surprised if it is a 360. I also doubt that your truck has air (mine doesn't). It would be more likely that you have an FT engine. These are very similar to an FE engine but they have tougher bottom ends and very restrictive heads. The down side is that they do not rev. The plus is that even on idle they produce tremendous torque. My truck only has a 330. Fully loaded it will walk away from a stop just off idle. If you post the casting numbers off of the heads we will be able to tell you if you have the FT or the FE heads.
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