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I just bought my first ford pick-up. It is a 66 1/2 ton with a 352 and a four speed. I read on a post here that the best milage an FE motor will get is 10-12 MPG. Is this true? What other options would I have as far as still using a V8 but getting some decent milage? I know that everyone on this forum is an FE fan, but are there other ford V8's that would bolt up to my tranny that get better MPG's? I only have experience with c*&#ys and it seems that they were much better at matching up trannys with lots of different motors. Any comments or advice would be great. What I6 was offered this year?
You're not going to get the best mileage with one of these old beasts, pure and simple. Some guys claim much higher mileage figures than you mention, but I have to whistle on some of their numbers. I get bad and worse (maybe 6 mpg) when I drive like I did when I was 16 with my 390. You can always do a little fabrication and drop in a later model 302, but you're still not going to get "great" mileage, merely becasuse it's a super heavy, non-aerodynamic truck.
My girlfriend wrecked her Geo Metro last week, but the engine is still good. I'd sell it to you cheap...you could have the only vintage Ford with a 3 cylinder, just think of the gas mileage!
If your knuckles ain't bleeding you did something wrong.
'72 F-250 "Hi-Boy" 4x4, Dana 60/HD44, FE428 @ 400+ ponies , 4-speed, custom suspension w lift, mud on black.
FE's Share a tranny belhousing bolt pattern with absolutely nothing but another FE. I would just have the engine rebuilt properly with the oiling system improved and run a small cam and small 4bbl carb. Also if you have high ratio rear end gears try to drop the ratio down to about 2.75:1. Drive like there is an egg underneath the gas pedal and you should get decent mileage and still have a fair amount of power.
I own the trucks listed below and a Geo Metro. My office is 18 miles away and I was getting tired of fillin up every 4 days. My 3 cylinder metro aint fast, aint pretty, and doesnt have a great website like this but I do like 45MPG.
My 76 gets 8-10 mpg and my 64 gets about 6-8 mpg and I drive like an retiree in south florida.
If you find some way to get more than 14 mpg let me know...i'll paint your picture on the side of my trucks!
Doop <
76 F-100 Custom (96K Original North Dakota miles) 360-C6 All stock
64 F-250 (Bought from the north slope of Alaska) 292-T18 4 speed
My office is 18 miles away and I was getting tired of fillin up every 4 days.
My Jobsite is about 43 miles away and I refill every other day 11mpg or so, bummer, now the next decision, replace the ailing 360 with a 410, or get the 5 speed I want so much, ugh, decisions LOL, try dropping the tailgate down for the trip, make sure you have a carb with annular boosters, get a tuneup, have the timing advanced, possibly have the carb rejetted. get a new air filter, get a small set of headers and small dual exhaust. make sure your tires are fully inflated or slightly overinflated, dont run wider tires than you need. keep your windows rolled up (I noticed about 1 inch of vacuum difference with both of my windows down sometimes) if practical. if you have power steering maybe convert it to manual so that the pump isn't being spun by the engine. swap to a electric fan or a flex fan so that the engine isn't dragging a fan when it's not needed. that's about all I can think of right now.
It aint the tail gate somuch as the shape and back of the cab that is the wind problem. But how do you fix that and not look like a space ship. Port EFI makes and BIG difference, but costly to setup.
I remember some magazine tests several years back to determine whether opening the tailgate improved gas mileage. Even with very sophisticated measuring equipment, they couldn't detect any improvement. That seems to confirm the statement about the cab shape being the important thing.
What is an "annular" carb and how does it improve mileage?
ksd
69 F100 Explorer lwb 2wd FE 360 C6. WANTED: straight/clean styleside long box w/aux fuel tank for 67-69 F series.
I notice a slight difference in my truck (probably 1/2 mpg or so) with the tailgate down. (it used to vary a lot and it seemed like it was high 9's with it up and low 10's with it down)Besides it's worth trying instead of just saying well because they said it didn't work on their vehicle it wont on mine. Annular boosters are different from like what you see on regular holleys, dominators have them, and a lot of carb shops will put them in on a hi-po carb rebuild, I'm not really sure how to describe it, but if you look down the booster on a holley you will see one big hole where the fuel comes out and is mixed. Well a annular has about 8 smaller holes around the inside of that ring that mix the fuel better. You can generally use smaller jets and have better throttle response. I've read the Holley model 4180 had them. And some of the 2 barrels had them too. From what i've priced it's rather expensive to have them added, but keep your eyes out for one of the old holleys with them at swap meets or something that you can just rebuild.
If you want to get reasonable gas mileage out of your truck, stick to the basics: high compression ratio, say 9 or 10 to one, hot spark, as close to factory timing setting as possible, numerically low rear end ratio, and low restriction exhaust. I would think you could get about 14 mpg from an old 2wd truck fairly easily. These compromises will pretty much prevent your truck from doing anything truly "trucky" like pulling a huge load, but you should get better gas mileage. Also might want to consider getting an aftermarket cruise control unit for your pickup and driving slightly slower than the flow of traffic. Steady, reasonable speed will help you quite a bit if you do a lot of highway driving.
If I can get 12mpg with my pickup (1978 F150 fulltime 4wd w/ bone stock and sucky 351m), then you can surely do better with a properly set-up FE.
Yes, you can improve gas mileage on old V8s but it's going to cost you. The biggest problem is fuel metering. A brand new carb tuned for gas mileage will help but you will sacrifice performance. Another option is fuel injection like the Pro-Jection throttle body system from Holly. This system is totally adjustable and it uses a Oxygen sensor in the exhaust. OR
Totally swap out your drive train for a 1980's 4x4 351W EFI with a AOD. Granted this is not just a bolt on kit but I bet there is some one out there that has done this already.
An over drive auxiliary unit added to your drive train will help at high way speeds.
EFI conversions are costly. I'd really think about how much you plan to drive the pickup, how long you plan to keep it, and how willing you are to do major work and not be able to use it for a while.
As for the fuel mixture, you're not likely to get huge gains in MPG by fiddling with your carb unless it's messed up or incorrectly adjusted. Most carburetors allow you to adjust idle, cruise, power, and secondary fuel mixture ratios. You want your idle and cruise circuits set as close to 14.7:1 air/fuel as possible. Go leaner and you'll wear out the engine. The power and secondary circuits need to be a little richer to help the truck accelerate when you put your foot in it. Go too lean with these and you get pinging and maybe a burned piston.
Say, what kind of economy is this truck getting now?