Spedo - Electronic or Cable?
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Ft. Collins, CO
Spedo - Electronic or Cable?
Is there an easy way to find out if my speedometer is electronic or cable driven without tearing apart my dash and actually looking at the back of it? I am trying to figure out what programmer I want to get that will give me the best power and also allow me to recalibrate my speedometer for my larger tires. I'm thinking about getting a superchips or edge. What do you guys think. I have a 98' F-150 XL Supercab with a 4.6L. It has 178000 miles on it. Is that too many miles to put a programmer on. Am I just wasting my time with that many miles on my truck and am I just going to create larger problems? Any help would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 240
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From: Meridian, ID
Your speedometer is electric so no problems there. I had larger tires put on my truck some time ago and just took it to the dealer and they reprogrammed it and I was out the door in no time. (I have a 98 F150 4.6L "work truck") so basicly a standard XL with a vinyl floor. I've heard of these engines going a long time so I don't "THINK" adding a programmer or chip would be an issue if you have kept up on maintenance and continue to do so and don't completely thrash it. The only reason I'd say no is if the chip or programmer is excessively expensive and if the motor or tranny "DID" happen to go in the next year or two you wouldn't feel like putting the money into rebuilding it - in that case save the upgrade cash for the day you might want a down payment on a new truck. Just my opinion!
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,338
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From: SW VA
I thought that the '97-'98's were cable driven? I do know that to change the speedometer reading (if installing larger tires or new gears), that you have to change a small plastic gear in the transmission's tail shaft. The '99's and up, you can use a programmer or some such and change it through the computer.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Olathe, KS
I found the same as ACT crazy. My 98 4x4 has a gear driven unit in the transfer case which converts to signal for the truck. And ALL tuners I researched will not correct the spedo for 997/98. The driven gear in the T-case was easy to change and correct though. The gear cost varies from $12 to $25. Did not check out the dealer and maybe I should have????
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Ft. Collins, CO
I tried calling my dealer about a month ago about this issue and they told me that they weren't able to do anything like that. Maybe they were just blowing smoke at me but they told me that they couldn't do it. If I do end up tearing my dash apart and I find that it is all electronic am I ok? Or do I need to have that small gear replaced in my transmision replaced still?
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Olathe, KS
Look for the unit at the transmission. If one is there, then you have a gear you can change. Which you should. Very easy to remove. Pull the connector and remove the one bolt for the clamp. Give a twist to pull it out easier. A clip hold the gear on the end.
Check out this site
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/sp...n_______va.htm
Also has a pic of the Speed sensor (Pulse Generator) for the tranny. Part #8SS
I had to go to a 23 tooth with 4.56 and 33s from a 3.55 stock.
Check out this site
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/sp...n_______va.htm
Also has a pic of the Speed sensor (Pulse Generator) for the tranny. Part #8SS
I had to go to a 23 tooth with 4.56 and 33s from a 3.55 stock.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Ft. Collins, CO
I found the unit on the transmision and I was able to get it pulled off. The gear that is currently on there is red and it is 21. I would like to order the correct gear for my truck but I don't know what my rear axle ratio is. I have been told that it is a 3.08 but I'm not sure if that's right. My rear diff cover is a 10 bolt and I got some numbers off of it but I still can't find which gear I need since I don't know what my rear axle ration is. I am currently running 265/75/16's on my truck and it seems that my spedo is about 5 mph off at 45 mph. Any help would be great. Thanks again for all of the help.
Last edited by BigDa; Oct 10, 2007 at 12:53 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 642
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From: Olathe, KS
Your 4.6 will have an 8.8 diff. Check the door sticker code.
The common codes are 19 — 3.55 non-limited slip, 18 — 3.08 non-limited slip, H9 — 3.55 limited slip, B6 — 3.73 limited slip.
Do a search on this board for decoding the tag. Or post what you have so we can help.
Appears you are about 12% off. With already having a 21 tooth then two options: an aftermarket 23t for an 8% change or changing the drive gear that is on the tranny output shaft. The drive gear will allow you to get within the range of your driven (small red one you pulled) gear.
I am not aware of how difficult the drive gear is to change on your tranny. The t-case is rather simple. Just removal of the tail cone.
A third option actually is a signal conditioner. About $150. It modifies the current signal to be correct.
A 23t might be your short term solution.
The common codes are 19 — 3.55 non-limited slip, 18 — 3.08 non-limited slip, H9 — 3.55 limited slip, B6 — 3.73 limited slip.
Do a search on this board for decoding the tag. Or post what you have so we can help.
Appears you are about 12% off. With already having a 21 tooth then two options: an aftermarket 23t for an 8% change or changing the drive gear that is on the tranny output shaft. The drive gear will allow you to get within the range of your driven (small red one you pulled) gear.
I am not aware of how difficult the drive gear is to change on your tranny. The t-case is rather simple. Just removal of the tail cone.
A third option actually is a signal conditioner. About $150. It modifies the current signal to be correct.
A 23t might be your short term solution.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Ft. Collins, CO
I took a look at my door sticker and hopfully I found out what might help. On the sticker under the word AXLE is has the number 19. So I'm going with the fact that I have a 3.55 and I know that it is a non-limited slip. So I guess my next move should be looking for a 23t to hopfully get me closer to the fix. I don't know if I want to change the drive gear in the tranny so I will try this first. The problem that I'm having is finding a 23 that can be used in with a 3.55 diff. They are telling me that you can only use a 23t with the 4.10 gears
Last edited by BigDa; Oct 10, 2007 at 01:42 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 642
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From: Olathe, KS
Any tooth of the correct gear type will work in your tranny. Those who say a 4.10 with the 23t are referencing a mustang with 4.10. not to be cruel, but they are apparently limited in their knowledge. Probably reading a chart that states it is for 4:10 gears. Seen it a lot in mustang references.
I have a 23t in my t-case now. 4.56s and 33s brings it real close.
Look around and call suppliers if needed to ensure you get the right gear for your tranny. Another site for the gear. http://www.ford-aod.com/
Here is the ford site.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/charts/142.pdf
Hope that helps.
I have a 23t in my t-case now. 4.56s and 33s brings it real close.
Look around and call suppliers if needed to ensure you get the right gear for your tranny. Another site for the gear. http://www.ford-aod.com/
Here is the ford site.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/charts/142.pdf
Hope that helps.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 58
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From: Ft. Collins, CO
Well I went ahead and ordered a 23t and if finally came the other day. I installed it in my truck and matters only seemed to get worse. I am now off even more while driving at 45 mph. Is it possible that I need to go with something like a 18t or something like that? Any help would be great. Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 642
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From: Olathe, KS
Sorry, I assumed on the speedo reading. 
Put the 21 back in since it is closer. We need to know how much the error is and which way. If you can. do a hwy run. If you don't have GPS, then set a speed and measure time between mile posts. We can calucate the error from there.
Put the 21 back in since it is closer. We need to know how much the error is and which way. If you can. do a hwy run. If you don't have GPS, then set a speed and measure time between mile posts. We can calucate the error from there.